I know that there was a special tool used to adjust the brakes on the 30-U when relining the shoes but if you don't have that tool how do you adjust the brakes using the anchor pins and adjusting cams so that you have even surface contact?
Either borrow an AAmco1750 tool . Or make your own like this one I did . There are pics of other homemade ones . Do adjustments as instruction describe with a feeler gage to give clearances to get your centering / major adjustment .(//)
Here is a document on how to adjust the brakes on a P15 (1946-8). The brakes are very similar and have a Major/Minor adjustment. If you don't have a gauge then this will get you in the ballpark.
Thanks for the help. I will try to track down the tool.
The document that Chet provided is pretty good and I did this to mine about a year ago without the tool...it can be done and I've got all four drums dialed in pretty good.
Ted
Couldn't see spending so much for a tool I will probably only use once so I made my own from some scrap left over from other projects. Worked great but now I have more questions. The brake lines on my car are copper and I am wondering if that is correct. I never encountered brake lines that were other than steel so I am assuming that someone made a switch before I got the car in 1962. The car had been in continuous service when I got it from the original owner and I drove it that way daily for another 10 years without issue. The copper lines are in good shape but if they were originally steel I want to change them out. They also do not appear to be double flared which is another reason I am suspicious that they are not correct.
Does anyone have a definitive answer?
I believe copper is correct. This was discussed somewhere previously, I forget where. See picture from my car.
(http://www.1948plymouth.info/galley/var/resizes/Crazydave/-Plymouth/20140608_195022.jpg?m=1515893642)
Thanks. I guess copper lines eliminate the rust issue common to brake lines but I am surprised copper is strong enough to take the pressure. Oddly, the gas line is steel. I would have guessed that to be reversed.
Start reading at reply #18 and at least through reply #22 for corrected information. (See link below)
http://www.1948plymouth.info/28Q29U/index.php?topic=811.15
Copper was original to the car. After 90 years my brake lines work great without any leeks. My assumption is the reasoning for steel was cost. The flare fittings are still in use today for pneumatics.
Is that a double flare or straight flare? My lines were not a problem either so I am planning to reuse them. Modern lines are all steel and are now bubble flared. The brake lines on my 2000 Suburban rusted out and had to be replaced in less than 16 years so I guess Chrysler's engineers knew what they were doing since the ones in my Plymouth have lasted more than 5 times longer and are still going strong.
Straight flare. I think 45 degree. Would have to check to be sure.
Chet...
Great. That is standard.
If you were going to re-do your brake lines, I would suggest the copper-nickel type that is available at most auto parts stores. Not only is it supposed to be pretty good, it has the copper look to it (as compared to steel).