Quote from: rwollman on August 29, 2018, 01:21:34 PM
Chet- was curious if you happened to measure thickness of refurbed pressure plate against the one that disintegrated on you

The old plate was a little over an 1/8" thinner than the one I just did.

I found some enthusiasm today and decided to refurb one of the older style pressure plates found on the Q & U.
The picture below is the one I started on.



The plate itself had a lot of surface rust but no deep dings or scrapes.  So I marked the housing and arms with tie-raps and dissembled the pressure plate.   I used three 'C' clamps to compress the plate for disassembly.  I cleaned and painted the surface areas with heat resistant engine enamel.



I resurfaced the plate by lapping off the surface rust and glaze.  Only took off about 0.006 of an inch.  This left a good thick plate surface.  I used the new springs from my old pressure plate because they were in fact the correct springs.  Below is the assembly using the 'C' clamps to compress the plate so that the arms can be installed.



Below is the finished product.  I think a much needed improvement over my original. 



I am going to use this pressure plate in my car for two reasons.  I like the way it came out and it is the correct plate for my 29U.

Working my way back after some disappointing events.  Motor is back in the shop. 

Great pictures Dave,  both cars look Great!!! 

Thanks for the inquiry, The motor is back in the shop.  I'll let you know what's happening once I know.  Since I have other work to be done on the car.., and to tell you the truth I am getting a little burnt out at this point. I told the builder I was in no hurry. 

?? Chet...

Thanks for the input, When I pull the engine I'll check.  But ! There shouldn't be any wear the crank was machined and the engine has less then 5 minutes run time.

I have a great deal of confidence in the builder.  I should have never run the engine with the pressure plate in place.  My mistake.  The centrifugal force probably allow the arms to open slightly and grab the throw out bearing shaft.  After that.., it's history.  I couldn't blame the motor rebuilder for that.   

Stuff happens, now we have to focus on correcting the problem.  Chet...

Quote from: rwollman on August 12, 2018, 02:47:24 PM
Chet- listened to yur video quite a few times - I can hear the knock upon acceleration - I think it might be a rod or wrist pin - do you have a mechanics stethoscope?  If not they are very cheap and really can pinpoint a noise, even a vacuum leak.  Should be available at any auto store for 9-15 bucks.   

You are right on my friend.  I have 3 out of four connecting rod bearings making noise.  See attached link to video.
60 meg file so probably download before running it.

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/images/IMG_1261.MOV

Will solution with builder, I believe you can remove shims to tighten the bearings.

Thanks Rich for the info.

After the last gap settings the engine ran very smooth except for the knocking.  To eliminate all problems with the gap setting I tightened the gaps again today which didn't affect the clunking.   At this point I am convinced the sound is coming from the rear of the crankcase.   Maybe something broke when the engine chewed up the pressure plate.  I am dropping the oil pan to get a look see.

I used a long screwdriver to listen to the block vibrations.  Starter motor bell housing OK, Distributor base OK, even the area around the tappets was soft.  No bangs coming from the oil pump.  Sound definitely coming from the rear and below the valves.

Manny thanks for your suggestion,  Chet...

I spoke with the builder and he said lifter noise.

So...

I will redo the gaps.  I am going to go on the tight side just to see if the noise goes away.  Then after a little run time I can recheck them and loosen if needed. 

Its harder working on a rebuilt engine.  With an old engine you don't really worry about breaking it because it is already broken.., that's why you are working on it.  Not the same after a rebuild.  It's like getting a car back from the painter and you are afraid to touch it until it gets its first ding.

As always, let me know what you think,  Chet...

Knock still there.  Maybe a little better ?   

Below is a link to a video of the engine running.  Its around 38meg so it will take a couple of minutes to load.

BTW... The noise goes away on acceleration and returns with stable engine speed.  Sounds like a marble bouncing around the crank case ??  I guess I should drop the oil pan and check things out ?  Does anyone think I could have damaged something when the pressure plate got chewed up.  Why disappear on acceleration and return on idle.  Does it sound like valve click to you ?

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/images/IMG_3987.MOV

Chet...

Reposted from AACA Forum
I purchased 2 clutch/pressure plates from him - surface rust but good restorable shape.
Chet...
_________________________________________

I have the left overs of a 1928 Plymouth 4dr sedan that all the wood had rot out & the body fell apart .. We've all seen it. The body panels of this car found a Man who tack welded it together & put it in his Garden.  I have 1 Rear Fender & a few bits of small tin available along with a Trailer load of Small parts, Just about anything you need it Seems.

Chassis Parts, NICE Frame, Front Axle & springs, 2 sets of Bumpers, 2 SILVER DOME 4cyl engines, 1 other that's not marked silver dome.

Bell housings, Transmissions, clutch parts, Fly wheels ... Bits & pieces .. BOXS of them ....

I'll sell the whole trailer load or just 1 part .... If you have a weird small part like body brace or a small part, It would help us both if you supply a PICTURE of the part your after .... I'm no Plymouth expert

Contact me by TEXT or EMAIL ............ 805-746-9011 Rick or desoto6x2@aol.com

I purchased a new bearing from Hagen's see link below:  ($84.25)

https://hagensautoparts.com/plymouth/13-clutch-flywheel/31123

Probably find a cheaper replacement now that I have a sample to send to someone.

Thanks Dave,

The pictures were very informative.  I removed the bearing but had to use a bearing puller for the first 1/2 inch. 

Did you ever source the bearing ?  I need to replace mine I don't want to take any chances with that section coming apart.  The destruction of the first pressure plate was enough for me.  Hooked up to the transmission under power and doing 35mph could have been a very destructive event.

I found a source but a little pricey.

Many thanks Chet...

Quote from: Crazydave on August 03, 2018, 09:42:12 AM
Could also try these guys. If it exists they can find it. I used them to get replacement axle bearings and a replacement for the front hub. they also have replacement seals of all kinds. 

https://www.cutter-sales.com/

Dave,

I think you replaced the throw-out bearing on your car.  See picture below is the bearing pressed on the plate with the transmission locating post or did you find a similar bearing ?



Tks, Chet...

Quote from: rwollman on August 08, 2018, 02:43:35 PM
Chet_ glad u got it worked out - I was thinking towards a binding or broken valve spring as based on your description of the noise in relation to cam revolution.....

Don't know for sure but we will see when I fire it up again.  Fingers crossed.