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Messages - chetbrz

#767
General Discussion / Engine back from rebuild.
July 01, 2018, 07:49:15 AM
Looks good.., hopefully runs as good as it looks.



Need to run it ASAP.  I guess I might mount it back in the car just so I could hook up the radiator and fire it up with the bare minimum.  Right now still sitting in the back of the pickup.

This is the note I got from the rebuilder:  Any additional suggestions ??

Hello Chet:

Break in sheet is that once engine has oil we recommend 30 weight detergent with zinc Brad Penn brand is good to use.  Where this engine is full pressure and has pressure regulator on drivers side under the cover you may need to adjust it to get best results.  I left it at previous setting, it may be too much now since engine is rebuilt.

Once engine is started you will run for five minutes and stop. Let engine cool off and retorque cylinder head nuts to fifty lbs.  We would also recommend that you fill cooling system with water initially and liquid block sealer "Bahr's Leak" comes in pint bottle to seal studs and head gasket.

After this is done You can restart and break in camshaft by alternating engine on fast idle up and down the rpm range for at least 30 minutes.  I would recommend you have at least an hour of run time on the engine before changing the oil.  Again you can use 30 weight detergent.

It's a simple engine and really straight forward.

I would recommend periodically checking torque on head gasket as well as all bolts and nuts on engine . The engine heats up and cools down the gaskets will expand and contract needing to have bolts and nuts retightened.

Any questions please ask.

Thanks  John 



Chet...
#768

Hopefully that will do it !

#769
General Discussion / Re: 1929 model u B pillar
June 21, 2018, 08:50:53 AM
What you described seems correct.  Below is a picture of the bottom 'L' bracket.  You are correct this runs the length of the pillar and terminates at the top as a 'T' bracket.



The top bracket:



This might help you but there are differences between original wood construction and my sill & roof frame.

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2017/07302017.htm

Good luck,  Chet...
#770
General Discussion / Re: 29 Build Thread - Part 2
June 11, 2018, 06:02:38 PM
Prep for Paint - Upper Door Frame Repairs.

Due to the length of this task and the number of pictures I posted a link to the blow by blow description below:

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2018/06102018.htm



Chet...

Link to Build Thread Part 1
http://www.1948plymouth.info/28Q29U/index.php?topic=1102.0
#771
I'm thinking float valve.
#772
General Discussion / Re: 29 Build Thread - Part 2
May 24, 2018, 05:00:24 PM
Frank,  FYI

All the glass, glass channels, window weather stripping, etc., I will install after the paint.  Makes for a much cleaner look.  The door's center board is easily removed.  Basically I installed the door locks to ensure all doors close properly and it will make the transport easier.  Also less masking for the painter.

Cheers, Chet...



#773
General Discussion / Re: 29 Build Thread - Part 2
May 23, 2018, 09:11:38 PM
Quote from: frankp on May 23, 2018, 07:37:53 PM
Chet,  Check your link, the one for the plymouthowners.club is correct.

frank

Frank I don't understand. What do you mean about the POC link.
#774
General Discussion / Re: 29 Build Thread - Part 2
May 23, 2018, 11:09:24 AM
Prep for Paint - Door Repairs.

Lots of things going on this spring but did manage to fit in some car progress.
Due to the length of this task and the number of pictures I posted a link to the blow by blow description below:

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2018/05232018.htm



Chet...

Link to Build Thread Part 1
http://www.1948plymouth.info/28Q29U/index.php?topic=1102.0
#775
General Discussion / Re: Paint Chips for 28/29
May 19, 2018, 11:11:04 PM
Thanks Frank !!
#776
General Discussion / Re: Drag link ball
May 11, 2018, 10:12:15 AM
I know which one you mean and I think, worst case, the one you need would be easier to have made than the one I showed in the picture.  Finding a NOS part might be a bit of a challenge have you considered a machine shop or maybe a call to Then and Now Automotive.

http://www.then-now-auto.com/

#777
General Discussion / Re: Drag link ball
May 10, 2018, 10:34:48 AM
Are you needing the top part in the picture below.

#778
Yes J&M specializes in antique engine repair.  They do the Babbitt work and any parts they can't find they make.  I have great expectations for this motor and I am glad I went this route.  Its nice that they photograph the progress as they do the rebuild.  Really keeps the customer in the loop.  Big shop and two brothers John & Michael who care about the work they do.
#779
I didn't find the pistons J&M Machine did.  They were new old stock.  The newspaper they were wrapped in was dated 1966.
Normally J&M would have pistons made to fit the purpose.  Basically got lucky.

See link to online engine rebuild progress:

https://www.facebook.com/pg/J-and-M-Machine-Co-Inc-270076059772640/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1467684380011796
#780
Quote from: rwollman on May 03, 2018, 08:10:48 AM
...  I believe vacuum for the fuel canister is created by an venturi effect.  Line size to the fuel pump would not create more or less vacuum, only effect the time it takes to reach max vacuum in the canister.. 

I agree with your statement about a venturi effect.  When I was speaking about vacuum line size, I wasn't implying a change to vacuum but a possible decrease to oil flow.  Similarly capping the vacuum port on the oil pump increasing the oil flow/pressure.

As far as my engine goes I believe it was in pretty bad shape.  As the rebuilder told me the engine was never rebuilt.  When I first got it I pulled the head and the cylinders had a pretty significant edge ring.  Also compression was pretty low I don't believe it hit 50psi wet.  The engine ran but knocked at 40mph with significant oil usage.  Also hard to start.  I to am very interested in the rebuilt compression numbers.  Unfortunately the rebuilder is using pistons which have an additional ring which I believe will increase the compression numbers.  Also cyl bored to .060 over. 



Pressure release valve can be adjusted after removing the dust cap but is generally changed by adding a different weight spring.  This is the same as my 6 cyl P15 (1948 Ply)