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Getting used to straight cut gears again !

Started by chetbrz, October 31, 2020, 01:02:47 PM

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chetbrz

The wife & I went out for a drive in the 29 this morning.  Drove 20 miles around the neighborhood.  The car & I are getting use to each other again.  I am learning to drive straight cut gears all over again and it's not always pretty.  Plenty of rattles and groans but for the most part the car ran well.  The motor ran very cool and oil pressure was 20-25 at idle and 40psi at run.  The car still likes 30/35 mph to cruise the back country roads.  Lots of vibrations I need to investigate.  The worst seems to be the gravel pan on the drivers side.  I will install the correct running boards over the winter so that should eliminate the vibrations from the side kick panels and my home made running boards.  Didn't use any side mount hardware because I knew I would be replacing them.  I would like to get 100+ miles on the car before the first snow.  Total to date is 42.4.

Not going far until I have confidence in the vacuum fuel pump.  It over filled after 5 hours of idle run.  Apparently driving uses more gas than sitting idle and running on the driveway.   This makes sense so I hope no problems arise with the vacuum pump.  So far so good and the increase in gas usage while driving is a good sign that this should work out fine.  Fingers crossed.

Chet...
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Russ T. Fender

Sounds like you're well on your way!  My 30-U requires double clutching for quiet shifting to second and likewise when downshifting but if engine speed was raised correctly on the down shift there was little or no grinding.  As far as vibration is concerned it is impossible to remove with those fiber disc universal joints.  If they are in decent shape the vibration is tolerable under 30-35 but above that it is down right annoying.  Those u-joints were used on lots of cars but I guess the lower speeds and the fact that they had nothing else to compare with made them acceptable.

racertb

Glad to hear Chet! Yes, the double clutching makes it much smoother and quieter. And your pressures are right about where mine are, 18-20 at idle and 40 at cruising speed. 35 to 38mph is the sweet range for mine. Anything in the 40-45mph range sounds a little strained lol.

chetbrz

It sounds like things are working OK. I just need to build confidence in the car.  Next time out will venture a little further.  That is after I clamp down on some serious rattles.

Thanks for the comments, Chet.
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29UJohn

That sounds really good, Chet.  I have always had to double clutch. Funny, the manual doesn't mention it, but with straight gears and no snycros, that is Usually the only way to shift smoothly. There is a good article on trannys in this months Skinned Knuckles. 
John
1929U 4 Dr

DWhited

Good to hear Chet, I have had my 28 out several times over the summer, I noticed you mentioned it ran very cool.  I am kind of curious about the water temperature, I believe mine runs hotter then it should.   Have you ever measured it? I installed thermocouples in the supply and return lines closest to the block.  Mine runs about 208 to 210 deg. F leaving the block and around 120 deg. F supply.  This stays fairly consistent regardless of ambient temp. or miles traveled. I tried an antifreeze mixture and it didn't seem to want to cool properly so I went back to straight water. I am thinking the specific gravity of the coolant affects the circulation. Anyone have any experiences with this?

chetbrz

Quote from: DWhited on November 22, 2020, 08:22:13 PM
Good to hear Chet, I have had my 28 out several times over the summer, I noticed you mentioned it ran very cool.  I am kind of curious about the water temperature, I believe mine runs hotter then it should.   Have you ever measured it? I installed thermocouples in the supply and return lines closest to the block.  Mine runs about 208 to 210 deg. F leaving the block and around 120 deg. F supply.  This stays fairly consistent regardless of ambient temp. or miles traveled. I tried an antifreeze mixture and it didn't seem to want to cool properly so I went back to straight water. I am thinking the specific gravity of the coolant affects the circulation. Anyone have any experiences with this?

I measure temperature with a NAPA Infrared Laser Handheld Thermometer, Part# 78-3880.  At the head going into the radiator external block temperature 175 - 185 and bottom radiator temperature 90 - 110 degrees.  The cylinder head is cooler toward the rear of the block than the front.  The rear about 155 - 165.
It sounds like you are about the same.  My assumption is a direct read of the water might prove to be a little hotter.

None technical check.  Radiator hot to the touch at the top much cooler at the bottom.  No steam is good.
(212 degrees is the boiling point of water not under pressure.) 

PS...  I am using a mixture of antifreeze and water approximately 40/60 and always have without problems.  More water than antifreeze.   

I hope this helps.  If you are not developing steam you are probably OK.  Car finds it'd own water level once it dumps what it doesn't need you don't need to add water back.  Iadd some water once each year and the car spits out what it doesn't need.
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Russ T. Fender

My non water pump 30-U consistently runs 160 in the summer using a old style top tank thermometer.  I have a 4" strip of aluminum across the bottom of the radiator to get it to 160 in the winter.   As I recall 160 was the thermostat setting  we used to use in the summer back when we used to change thermostats seasonally. it was exchanged for a 180 thermostat in the winter.  I would expect that 180 is the ideal temperature for our cars but anything between 160 and 200  should be OK.  I run straight water in the summer and 50/50 antifreeze in the winter.  I should add that I have NOS radiator so it is probably performing at peak efficiency.

DWhited

Thanks Chet, thanks for the reply,  I agree sounds like temps are ok. I have found it true about finding it's own level. good teh see you doing good with you're car