I agree.  The new disks will compress against each of the waffle washers (buckle washers) and will tighten enough to get the castle nuts on. 
I put a new set on a few years ago and had a similar problem, but when I evenly tightened the nuts, I was able to get the cotter pins in. 

Do not use lock washers.  You must use the castellated nuts and cotter pins.  The disks will wear over time and so the lockwashers will not do the job.  In fact, you should check the disks often after installing new ones, as you may have to tighten them once later.

I believe Tom Hannaford at Then & Now Auto Parts (Antique Auto Cellar) has new style NOS replacement spring hangers for 28-30 Plymouths. 

Wow - that looks great!

I have never used these, but I do not think the reducer nut is supposed to cover the hole in the fellow.  It must be smaller so it can go thru the felloe and be tightened snug against the rim.  Probably will have to use a thin wall deep well socket, or, maybe even use the dust cover to install the reducer nut.

Try (207) 839-4605

If you cannot reach him, you could try calling Odat Machine Inc.  332 New Portland Rd. Gorham, ME. 04038 (207) 854-2310.

Gene used to work there.  That is how he came to make the fabric U-joint Disks.

John

Not sure, but I would not count on it.  There are many different threads sizes.  The one for the Ford Model TT Truck fits perfectly. 

Ted,
I can loan you my removal tool if you want.  Could mail it by Post Office in "If it fits, it ships" box.
John

I highly recommend Gene Bibber.  He has been making them for years and they are excellent and reasonably priced.  Last I checked with him, a set of 5 was $125.  Three discs go on the differential end and two go on the transmission end of the drive shaft.  The color is cream.  I have a set on my 29U Plymouth 4 DR Sedan (a driver) and they look and work great!

Gene Bibber
135 Brackett Road
Gorham, Maine  04038
Email:  missmud31@msn.com 

Best to send Earl or Jeff Buton and email with that question.

Ted,
Please don't put Firestones on them, Mr. Chrysler would not like that, being Ford Model A tires!  The original were Goodyear diamond tread, but impossible to get.  Go with any good blackwall, but not Firestone!

Try calling A & W Bearing Supply Co. in Texas at

800-442-7773

If they do not have them, ask them to check the Timkin interchange guide.

RIV 063513 will interchange with Timkin 09074.

You should be able to order the bearings thru any Bearing supply store.  These are still used on other applications and are readily available last I checked.  Don't wast your time at an auto parts store.  Look up "Bearings" in the yellow pages and find an industrial bearing supply store.  Or, you can order them on line.  If you rather have NOS, call Tom Hannaford at Then and Now Auto Parts.

Front Outer Cone (roller bearing) is # 09074  (Number 09074 was used on 28-48 Plymouth and 28-48 Ford cars)
Front Outer Cup is # 09194
Front Inner Cone (roller bearing) is #14132 (14130 and 14131 will also fit.)
Front Outer Cup is # 14274

The grease seals are available at the auto parts stores, but use the part number:
National    473450
Car Quest, ABD    473450
Chicago Rawhide (C/R) 18242

The copper brake line is 1/4 inch OD.  You can readily get modern 90-10 copper nickle that is approved for brake lines.  Do not use hardware store stuff on brakes.

Thanks again Chet!

After rebuilding  my engine and cam shaft, I adjusted my 29U pressure relief valve and now get the following:

Cold:  45 psi at pump, 40 psi downstream

Hot:   40 psi at pump, 35 psi downstream

Hot idle:  20 psi at both locations

I think this should be fine now.   My 29 Manual states the pressure should be 35-40 psi at normal operating speed, and my factory gagae was set up to read from the downstream port, so it seems to be right on target.

After ths experience, I am convinced that he main bearing wear that most effecs oil pressure is the center cam bearing.

PS - If anyone has a 28Q manual, I would be interested to know what it states the normal oil presure should be, since those engines took the reading from the pump.

On my 29U the flywheel will only go on one way. 

When I had my engine balanced, the machine shop did not use the clutch, only the flywheel, crankshaft and pully.  It runs smooth.

I do not think one slightly oversize hole and bolt would make that much difference.  That is only a few grams, not enough to matter.