• Welcome to 28Q29U Plymouth Forum.
 

News:

NEW FORUM version is here. 
If you are experiencing any problems, contact chetbrz@aol.com
WELCOME Auto Registration is turned OFF. 
In order to register for this forum please contact chetbrz@aol.com to request access.

Main Menu

Old Gal - Still won't start

Started by racertb, April 11, 2014, 10:13:11 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

racertb

OK, need to clarify.  When I determine the piston is at tdc and at the top (whether observed or felt) as described, how do I know if it's on the exhaust stroke or compression stroke? 

frankp

My memory is hazy, but believe I took off the tappet cover plate to determine valve position.  Removing the spark plugs in 1 and 4, may show valve position also.  I'm sure some one as done more recently and will give better guidance.

Ian,  no need to be sorry.  I appreciate your knowledge on all things 28Q.  I can only discuss 29U as that is what I have and what the 1929 manual says. 
frank p

racertb

Took out the distributor (remembering it's position), cleaned it up, reset points.  I made sure the spring is not touching and even put a thin piece of Gorilla tape on the inside of the housing just as an added security measure.  Everything looks good at least.  Reinstalled the distributor.

I may use Ian's method of using the #1 plug instead of #4.  That screw on top of the motor over #4 will not budge! 

imoore

Hang on lol i think i have been wrong my self. For some reason i thought racerb had a 28. Think im getting confused with all the restoration questions.
Seeing how you tried to undo the small screw u must have a 29. At least everthing else is the same.

My mistake.

Ian
1928 Q tourer (Holden bodied)
Several vintage stationary engine

frankp

Not too surprised screw is being a tough cookie.  Might try old standbys to loosen corrosion.  I wish I had a magic elixir to recommend.  Good thing Ian provided additional info.
frank p

racertb

If I can't get the screw out, I could still use Ian's method (similar to what I've read online) using the #4 cylinder, I'm assuming.

racertb

Just to be clear, #4 cylinder needs to be on the compression stroke (air forced out) to determine that it's TDC?

imoore

Thats if you want to find tdc on compression stroke for cyl 4. Thats why i recommend using cyl 1. Stops any confusion.

If u have valve cover off you can tell when cyl 1 is at tdc on compression stroke by looking at cyl 4 valve. When the exhaust valve close and immediately inlet starts to open thats tdc on cyl 1. This is the same method used when setting valve clearance.
1928 Q tourer (Holden bodied)
Several vintage stationary engine

frankp

I read the exhaust stroke for #4.
frank p

racertb

Thanks Frank, I saw that to...so either exhaust stroke on #4 (per manual), or compression on #1?  That's the way I'm understanding now.  I may pull of the valve cover off or use the air method (compression) on #1 like In does.    Let me know if I'm wrong here.  Thanks again guys.

frankp

A I see it, you're right on track.

As Ian explained, #4 is approaching TDC on exhaust cycle and its pair, #1, is simultaneously approaching TDC on the compression cycle when the #1 plug will fire.
frank p

racertb

Great,  I'll keep you all posted.  It might be a few days until I get back too it.

29plycoop

Just a thought that you might check to make sure the distributor gear pin is not sheared or worn. That would make a condition that the timming would be changing all the time. Good luck. Rich
Plymouth and inovation go hand in hand.

racertb

Hey 29plycoop, I had the distributor out yesterday and looked over everything including the gear.  No wear on gear or pin that was noticeable.  Everything seemed in good shape with no play.

At this point, I think I just need to find tdc and get the distributor in the right position to get the timing right. I'm hoping that's all I need to do!

Thanks!

racertb

Quick update.  Removed the plugs, turned the motor over using the crank with my finger over the #1 plug hole.  It was easy to feel the compression stroke forcing the air against my finger.  I did this several times to get the feel and make sure I got it at TDC. 

I then made sure the rotor button was lined up with where the #1 terminal/plug wire in the cap is so the #1 plug is set to fire.  I had to remove and reinstall  the distributor to do this, otherwise I wouldn't have been able to get everything in line.  I'm going to check the points with a test light and adjust the distributor as necessary.

I believe I'll be ready to start the car at this point.  Keeping my fingers crossed.

Did I miss anything?