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Messages - imoore

#61
General Discussion / Re: Paint for springs
October 13, 2014, 04:31:43 AM
Thanks for the replays
I will end up just cleaning the springs and painting them on some killrust gloss. Same colour as diff.
Current update on the diff. Ended up requiring pinion and carrier bearings as well. So she will be a complete rebuild rear axle. The bearings were dearer then expected but once done will not have to worry about it.
2 of the bearings are no longer in production but was lucky enough to get NOS.
Just lucky i don't need to pay someone to do the work.
Ian
#62
General Discussion / Paint for springs
September 27, 2014, 08:06:32 AM
Hi guys.
How has everyone been?
So i have been busy fixing leaks from the diff. Which has ended up being an almost rebuild. So far axle seal and bearings and diff assembly gaskets. Pinion seal.
So have thought to take this opportunity to clean an paint it a as well but just curious if there is a special paint to use on the springs. Does anyone know.

Cheers ian
#63
General Discussion / Re: Compression Test
August 14, 2014, 08:12:48 PM
That looks good to me. Mine had 65 accros the 4. Makes me not want to rebuild the engine.
As long as the compression is even between the 4. Then all is well.

Ian
#64
What a great article and find. Its nice to read about our australian sales etc. what paper did ypu find it in?

Ian
#65
General Discussion / Re: ATT: RH drive plys owners
July 02, 2014, 05:18:37 AM
That chet and Gary for the info and photos. There is no difference between set up on 28 and 29. Except it is unique to right hand drive vehicles. Due to the steering coloum being on the wrong side but right side and under the carby.
Gary should see u on friday.
Thanks ian
#66
General Discussion / ATT: RH drive plys owners
June 20, 2014, 07:46:40 AM
Hi there
Could someone please post a photo of the linkage that goes between steering box and carb. The one that allows you to increase idle via steering wheel lever.
And if possible some measurements as well.

Thanks ian
#67
It sounds like its sucking air. From somewhere. Have u checked for manifold leaks. Just use water in a spray bottle.
#68
Well done. Nice to hear you got it running.
To get the ign timing right i would have a go at using a vacuum gauge. I have never done it this way but sounds like an easy method.
I set mine by ear
Also you probably check anyway but when setting timing make sure ignition advance is all way in.

The missfire you speak of sounds very similare to what mine does. Like a random misfire. I have overhauled my hole ign system in search for the cause to no success.
I have now just lived with it as its only noticable at idle.

Ian
#69
General Discussion / Re: Exhaust manifold leak
June 15, 2014, 11:12:49 PM
Hey gary.
Yeh the shed is up. Not finished but its up. No proper driveways to it either. Turns into a nice mud pit when it rains.  I have, as of last night moved into my bed room. After 8months or so in the van.
Yeh sorry i could not make it. I was house sitting from thursday. I am struggling to make it to any meeting. They seem to fall on the wrong date. But i need to get down to pay fees.
I might have to post it in.

#70
General Discussion / Re: Exhaust manifold leak
June 12, 2014, 04:23:48 PM
Yeh i have tryed 2 gaskets. Different thickness gaskets. Exhaust glue.
All they did was made it last another drive. But sure enough it would still blow.
#71
General Discussion / Exhaust manifold leak
June 12, 2014, 06:35:46 AM
Hi guys.
So for some time i have suffered from the exhaust manifold gasket blowing itself to pieces.
After the 4 gasket i decided to investigate the problem.
I found that when the exhaust and intake manifold were together the was a 2-3mm variation in the mounting face.
So i took the manifolds to several machine shops, all quotes me between $350-400.
I was not prepared to pay that so i began setting out a way to do it myself.
First step was to helicoil the exhaust manifold so i could clamp both together. A 10mm x 1.25 helicoil kit fits perfectly into the factory holes.
I then clamped the exhaust manifold port side down and faced it clean taking 20thou off to straighten.
I then used the carby flange and mounted the intake manifold to a 6mm thick angle piece.
You can see this step in the photo.
I made sure it was all level and square with the mills bed
Using a fly cutter i cleaned up the surface. Again taking 20thou off.
I then placed a gasket in the middle and bolted the exhaust manifold onto the inlet.
Then again faced off all the port in line taking 3mm off inlet port and about 30thou of exhaust ports
I then removed helicoils, made new gaskets.

Took for a spin round the block all is well. Time will tell.
But very easy work and cost me $60 for the helicoil kit and 3hours.

Ian
#72
Ive been following this for a while and i have a feeling the ignition is not timed right.
If you can wait until sat i will pull my valve cover of and make a video on how to set timing. Using the valves to identify TDC on cyl 1
I relay want to read a post on success she runs. 
Ian
#73
hi des
Yeh i saw that aswel. i could so use the radiator and front guards. And would be good to have a spare engine. But he is unfortunately to fare away and u gotta buy the whole car.
Ian
#74
General Discussion / Re: Engine Stalls
May 07, 2014, 05:38:29 AM
Sounds like you may have a blocked jet.
When i have an issue like this. That i suspect to be a jet issue. Try removing the air cleaner. Bring the engine to a fast idle  and cover the air intake with your palm for a split second. This will suck fuel from any and every jet or orifice. You may have to do this a couple of times. Keeping in mind it will flood the engine which is why you need a high rpm so it will clear with out stalling.
This might just save pulling carby apart for a clean up.
Ian
#75
Don't forget you need to point the rotor button to no1 cylinder. If not it could be firing at any of the cylinders.