I know the brake and oil lines are copper, but aren't the gas lines steel?

I'd go with Classic and Exotic.  They are more expensive, but they actualy make them new and they are right. 

You never know what you will get from Andy, and customer service is not good either.  I ordered one hose from him, to be sure it was right, then ordered the other two - and the fitting was wrong.  I called him about it and he acknowledged they were not right but said it was the best he could do.

I replaced mine.  I got the outer seals from Tom Hannaford at Then and Now Automotive (Antique Auto Cellar).  They were $38 each.  However, the stamping for the six holes was slightly off center, so I had to file them some to elongate so it would line up properly.  It you buy them from Tom, check them out closely.

There is a fellow that advertizes in the Plymouth Bulletin who makes the outer seals - Larry Chegwidden, Portland, OR.  His are $65 each and come with the gasket and instructions.  Call after 8PM Pacific time:  503-253-8941   

How should the front motor mount be secured between the engine and the frame?  My 29U's is attached with just two long bolts.  However, I saw one 29 with four small bolts, two to attach the mount to the engine, and two bolts with nuts to secure the mount to the frame.  This seems like a better way to mount it.
John
29U 4 dr Sedan

Thanks guys - this helps a lot!

Now to get one fabricated ...

The horn mounting bracket broke off my 29U's engine head. I want to have a new one made.  I am not sure the one I had was original.  Can someone send me a closeup picture of a 29U engine that shows the horn bracket?

Should the horn be above the top of the cylinder head and off to the side?

Check Egge.  www.egge.com

They list a new set of pistons for $203.  Better call first.

Hastings will provide a new set of rings for about $75

Jay Fisher makes replacements. 

Jay Fisher, Achen Drive 4-b, Clark, NJ 07066 (732) 388-6442

Jay is the Founder-Director of the Plymouth Owners Club.

I agree.

I had my brake drums turned - and did not have to remove the drums from the wood spoke wheels.  The brake shop enjoyed doing the work - they do not see many of those!  They also relined all the shoes and ground them to fit the drums.  Probably more than I needed to do, but I drive my car a lot.  The brakes work great.

Hastings has been making rings since before Plymouths were made.  You can order a brand new set for about $75.

800-776-1088
Hastings Manufacturing
Company, LLC
325 North Hanover Street.
Hastings, Michigan 49058
Phone (269) 945-2491
Fax (269) 945-4667

The same brake pressure switch was used on many cars up through the early 1950s.  Should be able to find one at your local NAPA store.

Doug,

The cowl lights and trim on your 29U look great.  Are they original?  Is your car a delux model U?

I also bought one from the Antique auto cellar.  These are new seals.  But be sure and measure the shaft diameter first, as some early 28Q and 29Us had odd sizes, as I found out.  Not a problem for Tom Hannaford though, he can provide them in any of the various sizes.  You may also need to sleeve you old spider shaft (where the seal rides).  Tom can provide those too.

Chet,

I talked with them a few years back and was told at that time that to rebuild one would be $2995! 

I had one many years ago that had a working accelerator pump, but it has since gummed up and have been unsuccessfull in clearing it out.  I will aggree, it does not seem to make any difference in the cars performance with out it!

Some parst are available for the 28-30 Chevrolets that will work on our Carter Carbs.  I obtained a new brass bowl for $36, bowl nut, and a few other parts to get one in running condition.

I agree a rebuilt Tillotson (or Marvel) is probably the way to go, and use a polished non-working Carter brass bowl type for show.  However, I do have a 28Q Carter Carb on my 29U  now that seems to work satisfactory.  New or rebuilt Tillotson or Marvel carbs are available at reasonable prices.

BTW - Some people do the same thing with the original AC spark plugs - they keep a show set that they put on only at a meet.  The original plugs were AC G-12s, but are hard to find and expensive (The Cherolets use them too).  However, AC G-14s were an authorized alternate (a hotter plug, good for stop and go city traffic), and are easier to come by.  Also, you can get reconditioned G-12 or G-14 plugs for much less.  They look just as good as NOS, and if only used for show, who cares if they are reconditioned.

For a good driving plug, I recommend the modern AC 87.  It is a hotter plug (like the original G-14) which reduces fouling and does very well for the kind of driving these cars usually experience today.  Other acceptable modern driving plugs are the AC 86 (no longer made), Autolite 386, Champion D16.

The 28Q Silver Dome used a 7/8-18 thread AC "A" or "AA" Spark Plug.  The higher compression Red Head Plymouth engines used an AC "Y" plug.  These will work on the Silver dome engine too.  I believe the Club judgeing rules accept any of them.  I am told a good modern plug is the Champion C7.

Good luck!

The only time I use the hand crank is when adjusting the valves - it is very helpfull for that.  I would rather push start the car than risk braking an arm hand cranking it.

For a carb, it may take you a long time to find a working original.  In the meanwhile, you could probably use a Carter BB-1 Universal Updraft carb.  This would be easier to obtain.  This carb is a replacement for the 1932 PB Carter types 4A2 and 4A3, but I beleive it will work on the 28.  (Maybe someone else can comment on this to confirm or not?)

Another option would be to get a rebuilt Tillotson from a Ford Model A parts dealor.  I used one on my 29 for a while until I found an original Carter brass bowl type.  Unfortunately, I no longer have the Tillotson carb.