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I need some advise...

Started by kimmc, September 20, 2012, 01:03:50 AM

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kimmc


SDGlenn

GOOD JOB Kim, looking great.  The Fiberglass cloth will work fine with the Poly you are using, if you think some areas might be a bit weak (from lose of the wood continuity) and need re-enforcing.  Looks good, good luck.
Later
SDGlenn
SDGlenn

frankp

Kim - great work!!  I wish my dad would have had the PolyAll back when.  He did most of woodwork and spent a lot of cutting and time shaping, I the mechanical.  Your car will be fantastic when done.  frank
frank p

kimmc

Thanks Frank.  I will be getting into the "cutting and shaping" real soon.  The top rear corner behind the passenger seat has some dry rot that I was just removing an hour ago.  It will be a challenging fix as the right rear corner sheet metal curves over the wood framing making it difficult to work.  Fortunately for me, my repair work will be hidden by the head liner and the fabric covering the rear corner and side.  I'll post some pics.  Fun, fun!!  

kimmc

Well, the top wood repair continues.  Pretty much have the top bows done but have to do some work on the slats probably replacing some.  The top right rear corner (behind the passenger seat) is pretty much gone.  There are 5 separate pieces involved and 3 of those cannot be removed. Two of the 5 pieces will need to be completely remanufactured; the other 3 will need serious rebuilding.  So, repair and replacement will be challenging; I've been studying the parts and I think I have a preliminary idea how I will make an attempt at repair.  But it won't happen real quick...it will take time...if it all works.  We'll see.  Following are a few pics for your viewing pleasure!  Aren't you glad this isn't yours! :)  Kim

frankp

Kim - Quite the challenge, but know you're up to it!  Wish I was close enough to give you some assistance.  frank
frank p

SDGlenn

Looking good Kim, keep it up.  I just got to thinking, Can you imagine the workers that "Originally" built the framework for these cars, and the metal workers, to make it all fit so perfectly.  I would have loved to watch (and maybe learn from them) them on how to do this. Amazing people, Our forefathers. Probable with all hand tools too.  Just a thought, if you haven't thought of this before.  Drill holes for dowels to help "pin" the wood all together, probable be able to use some pretty good sized dowel in some places.
SDGlenn
SDGlenn

kimmc

Hi Frank and SDGlenn.  Yeah, Frank, I wish you were here to help, too.  Stuff always seems to go more than twice as fast with 2 people working on it.  And yes, Glenn, dowels were my thought too.  I'm going to make new pieces without the mortise and tenon and use dowels and glue to pin everything back together.  At least that's the plan.  Making the pieces to get a nice tight dry fit will be the challenge.  I want to get the wood work repair done, hopefully during the next month, so I can get on with some new and different (like axels, suspension, seals, and brakes).  I'm thinking about dropping both front and rear axels and springs off the frame to work on them.  What do you guys think?  That should make it easier to finish cleaning up the frame and painting it too. 

Old Man

#128
Kim
Just a word about the repair of that corner. Do not try to duplicate exactly the original work using their 'tongue and grove' method. Use your own methods. I have been there and decided as time went on I was wasting my time learning old methods of master builders that was just slowing down my restoration and would never be seen. Just fill in the corner to the point where it is strong, it will not see anymore water or stress, and bring it to 'surface' so you can nail on the upholstery. That break in the roof side rail: I would just put the best carpenter's glue,read highest priced, in the break and put 3 or 4 #12 wood screws in it from the top or bottom. (I guess you've found out by now that all the screws have to have previously drilled holes for their bodies and their heads)From personal experience today's synthetic 'white' glues,actually the best I like is 'yellow', are impossible to separate once set. Impossible! I have tried to pull a joint apart and only succeded in breaking it somewhere else. And carpenter's glues are user friendly as they are 'water clean up' but 'water proof' when set.      

kimmc

Hi all.  Sorry for the silence...my wife and I took off on a little vacation for a couple of weeks.  For the 'old man', yes, I do use wood glue whenever I can.  I'm a believer!  Presently I use Titebond II or III...the latter on this project.  First I dry fit the break to see if I can get it close to an acceptable fit, then I use the glue liberally, get it into all the crevices, then fit the pieces back together exactly, then clamp everything for at least several hours (generally much longer than necessary...that's just to make me more comfortable with the repair).  I'm sure many of you have done similar work...nothing new here.  Generally the repairs come out real good.  But I plan to glue strips of wood along both sides of each top bow in order to reinforce the wood.  The bows are especially vulnerable at their ends because half of the bow was cut away for the lap joint with the side wood beams.  There are several breaks in the bows at this location; the pictures show repair of one.  So, the wood work continues a little bit at a time.  Kim

Gary 30U

Doug, I'm like you just a little late with my thoughts.

Kim, Sorry I didn't get to this sooner.

An easy way to pull the engine, if your going to pull the transmission, is to also pull the flywheel and bell housing. This way there is nothing to  worry about with the steering column and Clum switch.

By the way it is easy to remove the Clum switch by just loosening the nut on the bottom,  which holds it onto the headlight switch shaft, and then loosen the side bolt on the trottle control arm, and the whole thing simple slides off the bottom of the shaft.

Just my thoughts.

Gary R., Happy

kimmc

Hi Gary.  Yup...what you suggest is what I did with both the engine removal and clum switch.  Everything came out fine...a few of months ago!  :)  But thanks anyhow!  Kim

Old Man

You seem to have an inordinate amount of free time and money on your hands. Do you rob banks for a living? LOL

kimmc

Hi OM!  Well, I am retired, so that accounts for the free time.  But I can't spend all my time and money in the garage do things that are fun for me...I have to take care of the one who takes care of me!  As they say, "happy wife, happy life!"  As for the inordinate amount of money...I wish that was so....then I would just be "helping" with this restoration work instead of struggling through much of it by my self!  :)   I save the $$ in order to do those things I don't have the knowledge and skills to do....I am envious of those "mechanics" on the forum that obviously can tackle any job on these old cars. The exchange of information via this forum has helped me a lot; it is a valuable "library" for 1st hand information.  By the way, I think you and I are about the same age and that ain't so old! :)

kimmc

Well, work on repair and replacement of the wood in the top of my '29 business coupe (pic 1) continues but seems to be interrupted frequently so progress is real slow.  I pondered not replacing the top slats or only doing the ones that were badly split (pic 2) but I decided that the other wood repairs I want to do will be easier with the top slats out of the way.  So, they are coming out and I think it was the right decision.  Many of them need replacement.  Filling holes with toothpics continues; there are many more yet to do.  There is a 1/2 inch wide strip of thin metal (similar to plumber's strapping metal) that ran across the ends of the slats at the front and back (pic 2).  This strip was tacked down over the slat on either side of it to help hold it in place (the front of each slat was not tacked so this metal held the front ends in place; the back of each slat was tacked and covered by the metal tacked down on either side of the slat).  Lots of holes to fill!  I haven't been able to find a replacement for this flexible steel strapping.  I am considering replacing it with copper strapping.  I plan to use narrow crown steel staples to secure the wood slats and metal strap.  However, I was wondering if the contact of dissimilar metals may cause one or both metals to corrode quickly (galvanic action)?  Anybody have any thoughts?  The '35 Plymouth Deluxe Sedan in the background is my unrestored car that I will be driving to Tucson in 10 days.  Hope that goes well; it's over 900 mi one-way so hope the old girl can manage it!  So, work continues, but slowly.  But, it's spring!  Yea!!