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Messages - 29UJohn

#271
 :P   I am rebuilding my 29 Plymouth engine (SN U50105).  My car was manufactured approximately May 15, 1929. On this engine, the line to the oil pressure gage comes off an oil galley port on the left rear of the engine under the starter, near the rear main bearing.  I obtained a 1929 parts engine (SN U29287) that was manufactured earlier than my engine.  On this earlier engine the oil line to the oil pressure gage comes directly off the oil pump. I am using oil pump from the parts engine on my rebuilt engine.  This has allowed me to place a second after-market oil pressure gage in my car, with the "new gage" showing the pressure at the pump, and the original gage showing the pressure at the other end of the oil gallery.  When I run the engine, the difference in oil pressure between the two is 5-10 lbs when running at operating speeds (30-40 mph).  At warm idle the two register about the same (~20 psi).  Also, the gage measuring the oil pressure at the pump fluctuates quite a lot, while the oil pressure measured downstream on the original gage is much more steady.  
   Now - I am trying to set the engine oil pressure.  The "May 1929" manual states the oil pressure should be 35-40 psi at normal operating temperature.   I have set it so the oil pressure at the original downstream gage is 32 psi when warm, and the pressure at the gage is about 38 psi. When the engine is cold and run at 30-40 mph, the pressure at the pump is about 45 psi - until the engine warms up.  I hope this is OK?
???    My survey question is:
1) What year is your car?
2) Where is the oil pressure line connected - to the oil pump or to the oil gallery under the starter?
3) What is the max oil pressure when run at operating speeds - cold and hot?

John

   
#272
General Discussion / Re: Distributor slop
January 16, 2011, 10:48:21 PM
Not sure exactly what you are describing, but it you are talking about the slot at the end of the cam shaft where the distributor connects, I would not be concerned about it.  The slot is off set slightly so that there is only one way to connect the distributor to the camshaft - so you do not get the timing off by 180 degrees!  
If you are talking about that you can turn the distributor shaft where the points are, there is movement there due to the springs in the semi-auto advance system - which is how it is designed.
I suspect your distributor is just fine.  Be very careful pulling the distributor off.  The housing is pot metal and can break.  You can get a new housing in brass, but they are expensive.
#273
General Discussion / Re: exterior handle screw interior
December 28, 2010, 12:59:55 PM
I noticed one is a flat pan head with no slot.  These might be a friction pin.  You may be able to get one from a Ford Model A parts supplier.
#274
General Discussion / Re: hop up
December 26, 2010, 11:16:07 PM
There was a "Red Dome" head, but don't know much about it.
#275
General Discussion / Re: exterior handle screw interior
December 26, 2010, 11:10:59 PM
I do not think mine are original.  They are machine screws, slotted pan heads.   
#276
General Discussion / Re: exterior handle screw interior
December 24, 2010, 01:17:20 PM
Not sure exactly what you are asking, but the screw does not go through the interior door cloth and panel.
#277
Walt Tallberg may have a spare, as i have gotten several parts off his two parts cars.  Try:  wjt1488@windstream.net  or try (870) 447-3043  (Arkansas)

If not, you could try Ben Ostranger (Alberta, Canada), but he may be South for the winter!

BEN OSTRANDER
SITE 11 BOX 52 RR 1
DE WINTON AB  T0L 0X0
CANADA 
#278
To remove the inner seal,you first must remove the inner bearing race.
Then you can remove the inner grease seal.
The attached shows the makeshift tools I used to pull the inner seal.
#279
General Discussion / Re: Piston rings
August 22, 2010, 12:03:38 AM
If the pistons are of the original type, Hastings and Grant both carry them in over sizes.  +.060 should not be a problem.

You can get them through Egge.    Or, sometimes Hastings will sell them directly.  Should run you about $150 for a set.  That's higher than the modern thinner rings cost.  But, a good correct set of rings is well worth it.

Egge can be reache at:  866-966-3443
#280
General Discussion / Re: generator parts
August 07, 2010, 09:10:55 PM
The front generator bearing (drive end or pully end) is the same at the Ford Model T, Ford part number 5121 (or T5121)

The rear generator bearing (commutator end) is the same as the Ford Model A.

These are available from many Ford Model T and A parts dealors.

You can get "original" or modern sealed bearings.

I replaced my generator's bearings a few years back with new sealed bearings that never need oiling and have had no problems (Normally I am a purist - so please forgive!).
 
#281
Thanks!  I'll have my machine shop do that.   They just turned the crank and still have to align bore the mains. 

John
#282
General Discussion / Re: battery cover
August 07, 2010, 12:53:20 AM
The wood cover just sits in there - nothing hold it down except gravity and flor mat that covers it.  It has a single round hole to enable yout to lift it off.
#283
Where did you buy the oversized pistons?  I bough mine form Egge and they are 33% heavier than the original ones.  I am concerned about the effect on the balance of the engine.
#284
Photo A is correct.  Also, it does not matter about the hole in question.  

I would try a different pump, even if I had to borrow one.



#285
General Discussion / Re: oil pressure
May 07, 2010, 11:23:08 PM
You could try tightening the snot out of it.  Most likely it is either not lining up straight, or the flare is damaged, or (hopefully not) the brass T-fitting male end is damaged.

I recommend making a new copper intake line.  As Gary said, it is a real pain, and will take some time, but that would be the best thing to do.  I remade mine after the engine was rebuilt.  I used one of those coiled spring benders.  As for the attachment to the center bearing, best to replace that fitting with a modern type compression fitting, if not already done so.