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Wire Wheels from a '31/'32

Started by racertb, September 06, 2016, 11:40:37 AM

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racertb

All:

Will wire wheels/rims from a '31/'32 Plymouth fit/work on the '29?  If so, does anyone know what is involved with the "conversion"?

Thanks...

TB

thehandleman

DON'T THINK THE WHEEL LUGS ARE THE SAME SIZE,AND THE WHEEL BACKING PLATE SIZE IS DIFFERENT??? I  UNDERSTAND WHY YOU WOULD WANT TO TRY AS THE 29U WIRE WHEELS ARE VERY HARD TO FIND
GOOD LUCK

ski

I have a wire wheel on my car in place of a wood spoke one right now. I obtained a set of hubs for the wire wheels from one location and the wheels from another. To change remove spindle nut on front end and remove the whole wood spoke hub/drum/wheel/ bearing assembly as a unit. Then install the whole wire spoke wheel hub/drum/wheel/bearing assembly as a unit. I had to adjust my brakes a bit on that wheel because of the "new" drum. The drums and bearings are the same. Drums could be used from one to the other but new holes would have to be drilled  You can take the wire wheel off with the five lug nuts once its on but changing the whole works is just the one spindle nut. Same thing on the rear.  Just remove the axle nut. (and get a puller or whacker)  Eventually I want to be able to switch between the two easily. I'm pretty sure the 31 hubs are the same. I'll try to get you some pictures.

racertb

That would be great ski...thanks!

ski

I haven't forgot but I've been real busy this week. I will get them up by this weekend.

racertb


ski

I was mistaken about the drums being the same.  My memory has taken some hits. The working surface and dimensions are the same but putting a wire spoke drum on a wood spoke hub and vice-versa is not an option.  Even though the braking surface ends up in the same place in relation to the car when bolted up to their respective hubs, you can see from the side by side shot that the mating profile is concave not flat.  The inner and outer bearings of each style hub are in the same place relative to the braking surface of the drum which allows replacing the whole assembly as a unit via the spindle nut or axle bolt.  The rear hub usually needs a puller or a device like in the last picture. I call it an axle whacker.  Looks like I'll have to post in groups of four.

ski


ski


ski


ski

Last one for now.  This is a Mopar B body drum (slightly modified).  The one before is a re-drilled trailer hub with a ford wheel. There are trailer hubs available with the odd size bearings on these cars. These are on a hulk roller just to move it around. I'm pretty sure the front hubs I have are from a 1931 Plymouth or Dodge. The wheels on the Dodge are bigger I think but the hub is the same. I'll get the picture of the axle whacker in a bit.

ski

Okay here's the pictures of the hub "puller" .  The one I use is beaten and battered. That's the way I got it. I have only removed four rear hubs and none of them would have required this much beating. I suspect this one was used improperly. The way I understand to use it is:

1. remove nut AND washer.
2. screw it on until it BOTTOMS out on the end of axle shaft.
3. Jack the opposite rear wheel off the ground and block well.
4. Hit the "puller" hard and squarely with a small sledge.

If you leave the opposite wheel on the ground the tapered axle has no place to back out once the  hammer blow pushes all the end play tight. Or at least it has to overcome the friction of the cars weight, requiring a mighty blow for sure.  I think that's what happened with this one. There's a picture of a new one as well.  They used to be on ebay a lot.   I think I'll hit the used one with a grinder.

ski

Second picture of the fourth group is a 29 Plymouth wheel on a 29 Plymouth rear hub mounted on my 29 roller. The lug nuts, studs and spacers that I used came from a local aftermarket wheel shop and seem to work great if you don't have originals.  I got a couple drums that had newer studs weld into the drums but this route is cleaner, easier and does not alter any original parts.  I should also mention that I have one hub that I know to be original 29 Plymouth and it is identical to the ones I have that I am 99% sure are from a 31 Plymouth.


ski

Here's the inside of the puller.  It's needs to thread on about 5/8" to bottom out. I'm just putting this stuff up since I mentioned using it and I know others may have questions about removing either type of rear hub from the axle.

racertb

Ski:

Thanks for all the information and the photos.  I'll probably stick with my artillery wheels, especially since they're being re-painted now.  The pictures say a thousand or more words and are sure to be helpful to any of us in the future if we want to go this route...thanks again!

Ted