How are the carriage bolts on the ends of the bumpers kept from turning?  Are they just a friction fit?  Tried to remove them, got the nut off one but cannot get the bolt out.  The carriage bolt on the other end turns when I turn the nut. Do not want to damage them by gripping with channel locks, and do not want to cut them off.  After 42 years I would like to have the bumpers chromed, but do not want to damage anything getting  them apart.  Any experience with this or suggestions for removing? 

I bought a set from Then and Now automotive. They are basically alignment rings.  Not really necessary, but can help get everything lined up.

I am also using the AC C87.  I like using AC since the original plugs were AC.  The AC C87 is a hotter plug than the Champion D16 (which I used for years) and I think it reduces fouling and runs a little better.  Our cars came originally with AC G12 plugs, but the G14 plugs were also used for the same reason, they are a hotter plug that tends to reduce fouling. I have a set of original AC G14 plugs but have been waiting to use them.

Is there any problem using wheel bearing grease specified for wheel with disk brakes on our cars with drum brakes?  I have heard that wheels with disk brakes operate at higher temperatures, and if used on wheels with drum brakes teh grease might not flow properly in the bearings.  The reason i ask is I like to use synthetic grease because it is more stable and will last longer, but I have not found synthetic grease for drum brakes.

Has anyone recently replaced a rear main rope seal?  When I bought my car the rear main seal had been replaced with a split neoprene/metal seal.  Later I obtained a parts engine and removed the rear main seal bracket.  It held a cork seal about 0.250 inchs wide and thick.  I purchase a rope seal for it, but it is much thicker, at about 0.350 inch.  Should I obtain a smaller size rope seal, or stuff the one I have in the bracket?  I have never seen a correct rope seal bracket and would like to know how large they are.

There is a good article on Model A Klaxon Horns in the December 2012 Skinned knuckles magazine (Vol 37 - No. 5).  It covers overhauling and tuning up the Klaxon "Ahh-Ooo-Gha" horns, like the ones on our 28-29 Plymouths.  One interesting recommendation was to apply a film of grease to the face of the agitator to improve the sound.  I tried it and it works well.

I believe our early Plymouth's had Goodyear tires as original equipment.  These have the diamond tread.  Mr Kelsy owns the rights to early classic Goodyear tires.  10 years ago I purchased a set from Kelsey Tires.  However, he has not made any 20 inch tires in years, and only carries them in 19 inch size.

Does anyone have an original 1930-U Plymouth Carter Carburetor?  I was wondering what type it was.
Did the 30-U carburetor have the long slender accelerator pump or the short one?  My master parts book shows a picture of a carb with a long slender pump, but the parts list shows a short pump.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a good replacement carb that will easily fit the 28-29 Plymouth?  I would like to get a carb for regular driving and save the original for show only.

I found this web page for Deltran Battery Tenders

http://batterytender.com/

The 6 Volt models are $39.95 (0.75 Amp) and $64.95 (1.25 Amp). 

Has anyone used a Battery Tender to keep their 6 volt car battery charged?  Do these work well?  Any recommendations?

Contact the Restoration Supply Company, www.restorationstuff.com, or call 800-306-7008

Tom Hannaford can take yours and put new rubber in it. It is vulvanized.  He fixed mine and it fit perfectly.  Google the Antique Auto Cellar, or Then and Now Autos.

Chet is correct, and the drawing is correct.  That tab (#2) doesn't do anything but serve as a wire restraint. The horn is grounded by the horn button.

you can clean them out with kerosene.  I use 85W-140 in my 29U tranny and differential.