Interesting find. Your right on the distributor base, finding one in usable condition will be almost impossible. A few of us on here have made our own distributor bases, and there is a source here that reproduces them. There is a lot good information and knowledgeable nice folks, on this site.

Take a look in my thread, this is what I did. http://www.1948plymouth.info/28Q29U/index.php?topic=811.0

Also more discussion about the bases here http://www.1948plymouth.info/28Q29U/index.php?topic=966.0

Good luck and welcome

When I first started hunting for parts and information I booked marked a page with information about someone who makes reproductions. (Antique Auto Parts Cellar)

I have now noticed it was Rich (29plycoop) who posted the info on smokstak (Time stamp April 2009)

Rich have you bought one of their reproductions? And if so do you have any pictures of it?

Well Chet, I haven't really thought out a long term plan. Just want to be able to run it on the road if I want. I was unaware that we can buy wiring harnesses for these cars. I was going to pull the wiring out and redo it section by section, but would be open to looking at a harness. Especially if it had all the connectors for lights, brake switch etc. Maybe well worth time savings. Got a link to a vendor?

I want to keep it as original as possible, I like it being a time capsule of sorts. Judging by the reactions I got at the show I went to (I understand I may receive a different reaction at a tractor show vs. a car show) people are drawn to car that looks like it has a story to tell. How can that thing be untouched for 85 years? (plus its a lot cheaper to leave it  )

I'll pass on the turn the signals for now, it would be different if I was planning on long road trips but I'm not. I would how ever like to be able to through the wife and kid in for a few short trips so I should consider replacing the windshield glass at a minimum.

Goals for this year;

Get the car rewired and street legal.

Get new tires and safety check all the wheel bearings, hubs and spokes.

Get a new top, and all of the roof wood repaired.

Find and repair the source of my water leak.

Started tear down.

I flushed my tank the best I could (In a hurry) with compressed air and fresh gas. I haven't had any noticeable issues with the electric pump. It idles down real nice and I have had it around the block (maybe 35 mph) and across the field a few times. I play with the choke a little until its warmed up, then it seems good on the top and bottom. Considering I have put little effort into tuning and optimizing the timing. Its nice to have Franks to compare it to, his is setup correctly.     
Maybe I can get him to race me...  Do you think anyone would notice ? Or would they just honk and try to get around us lol

I would like to keep it as original as possible, and I hope to find a Kingston vacuum canister some day. I was just wondering what differences you experienced. For now if/when I get it on the real road and not just playgrounds I feel a little better with some pressure and a filter with all the crud I know is in the tank. I have heard dirt, rust, sediment can stop the cans from functioning fairly quickly.

Quote from: Doug on February 15, 2015, 02:24:17 PM
Your car looks great. My car was a Survivor like yours. The previous owner painted and upholstered it. I have pictures of it before. On your fuel pump, Someone had changed mine to a Stewart fuel feed. The last owner took it off in favor of an electric. I have changed it back. Stewart pumps show up on Ebay often. Your carburetor will like the gravity fuel feed better than electric. Keep up the good work.

Thanks, Doug. 

How does the car run different between the 2 fuel systems? I had some concern about pushing fuel to a gravity feed carb, thought it may push through the needle and seat. I was thinking of a way to plumb in a bypass and/or limit the flow with a needle valve (its internally regulated) to try and find the right pressure. (I know get a low pressure regulator) I tried it just the way it came and haven't had any troubles. I mounted it in the passenger side frame rail, near the outlet of the tank with a filter on the inlet. I will post the description from the ebay ad below. Any thoughts on other converted cars about what the proper pressure is or negative effects of running an electric pump? It is 6 volt.

"This In-line electric fuel pumps provide the needed amount of fuel whenever the engine demands it. This pump has a shut off pressure of 2.5 to 4 PSI at no flow conditions and will deliver 40 GPH at wide open. Comes with 1/8" pipe fittings, and 2 nipples to connect the common 5/16 gas hose. Can be used on positive ground systems, as there is separate connections for both positive and negative."

This pretty much sums up the battle to get her reliable and driving around for the show last August. Still rolling on old rubber, which quickly started to disintegrate as a few miles where logged. A quickly rerouted fuel system with an internally regulated electric fuel pump in place of the vacuum canister. I think this is going to stay, as I doubt I will find a tank in good shape anytime soon. They also have reliability issues so I want to plumb right through it to make it look original, but have the more reliable fuel pump hidden down in the frame rail. A few more pictures from last fall.


Out at the farm, driving on period current roads 


Tucked in for the winter with a new room mate. 47 Minneapolis Moline RTU

So at this point I have the axle and all the bearing components taken out. It had two shims in there, but I can't see how they make much difference. I don't know how or what the correct procedure and tool you are suppose to use to get that inside tapered bearing (race?) back in the axle tube. I suppose you need a piece of pipe exactly the inside diameter of the axle tube, to ensure you are pounding it in evenly. I cut a piece of wood and made it work.

Now to find bearings. I was told about this place by a friend. He and his dad restored a few antique tractors, and when ever they couldn't get a replacement seal or bearing they went here.
http://www.cutter-sales.com       They can pretty much get anything, if its available. By cross reference or by measuring. They can also get any of the old seals, felt replacement etc. I had new bearings within 48 hours.



Doesn't this look better?

Thanks Frank. It seems to fit a little too perfect for someone to just find a random cardboard tube, and slide it on the input shaft. I put it back on 

The outer bearing cup was beat up pretty bad. No trace of a roller. Had I chose to try and drive this car without addressing this, the axle would have likely walked right out, leaving me a 3 wheeler.

Remember this? I pulled the axle out with one yank hand, using only my hand.

Believe it or not, inside the retainer shaft there was a piece of waxy cardboard. It slid down right to the those oil rings. Factory piece to help retain the trans oil? Frank took a picture I don't have one, maybe he will post it. So the rest of the piece got machined, with the little relief for the oil to splash into the dome. I ended up adjusting the final fit by removing material on the outside edge for clearance with a sand wheel on a disc grinder.

Ok, time to try and get this thread up to speed. It will be tough to remember all the details, but lots of pictures should tell the story. I went back and fixed the broken links on the previous pages as well.

Resolution on the pinion gear retainer. After seeing how difficult it is to deal with that old pot, I decided I didn't even want to deal with it again. Especially on a piece that no one will see. Answer is below. Thanks goes to Frank again for loaning me his broken one, (which is far less trashed than mine) for a pattern to reproduce.

Quote from: racertb on February 08, 2015, 07:41:36 PM

I might wait to see what Dave's findings are first with his aluminum drive; also thinking about calling Tom at Antique Auto Parts Cellar and ask him about tolerances since he apparently makes a brass replacement housing with the drive. 

I can only hope that I am on the right track... either way, this is definitely a learning experience

Ted

Ted,

The aluminum housing was built by referencing the 28 housing I posted pictures of and Franks 29 spare. It will be as tight, or tighter as the pictures I posted above. It how ever is not perfect, and needs a few tweaks to make it right.  I have not any issues, but run time has been limited. I will plan on taking it apart soon and checking for wear inside.