I completed the bodywork to the passenger side fender and removed the driver's side for repair and prep for paint. While cleaning the upper frame under the fender I noticed that my front brake tubing connector was cracked. I still have the original copper and had repaired the brakes a number of years ago. I guess I'll have to replace this line. In inspecting the passenger side I found that the connector was also cracked. Neither line was causing a problem and neither could be seen without removing the fenders and looking straight down at the fitting.
(http://www.1948plymouth.info/galley/var/resizes/chetbrz/Brakes_01.jpg)
I guess a complete brake system refurb is in the cards. Can't seem to catch a break, no pun intended. :(
Chet...
Not surprised . They recently talked about how brass cracked on these aged fittings on aaca forums . I found one on mine and had another crack on reinstall of master . the copper line has not been problem . but you will lose length to re flare for new fitting . Most are replacing with copper, coated or looking (conifur ) tubing , I believe it was called . Easier to bend and looks correct .
I will redo the lines after the car is painted. I want to get it into the paint shop before the weather gets too cold. Otherwise I will have to wait for spring. I'll check into the tubing you mentioned. These lines make some serious bends. A right angle through the frame. No chance to replace the fitting.
Tom is right and I would use this as well (I may be in the future). It's nickel/copper line, comes in rolls, and can be bought most anywhere, including amazon. You can also get straight lengths as well. The other good thing (like Tom mentioned) is that it looks correct in color.
Quote from: racertb on September 01, 2019, 10:20:18 AM
Tom is right and I would use this as well (I may be in the future). It's nickel/copper line, comes in rolls, and can be bought most anywhere, including amazon. You can also get straight lengths as well. The other good thing (like Tom mentioned) is that it looks correct in color.
Ted, Do you known what the product is called. ?
Sorry, I did a little search and found this:
Copper-nickel tubing, such as Cunifer or NiCopp, offers what appears to be a miraculous alternative. Despite being an arguably softer material than steel, it's DOT approved for hydraulic use. In fact, its PSI ratings are only a little lower than that of steel, still more than strong enough for brake applications, which typically see a maximum of anywhere from 800 to 1,500 PSI. (In some cases, that number can get as high as 2,000.)
That's it!
Hay Ted I think you might have dodged the bullet. It looks like Dorian will stay off shore.
My younger daughter went down to surprise visit my old daughter in Cocoa Beach. Do you think she listen to any news. The younger one and her husband had no idea there was a hurricane threat. Just what my older daughter wanted, house guests.
I think they should be fine...I have some friends down there in Melborne and it wasn't too bad...we're just supposed to have some tropical storm winds here with gusts up to 40 mph (so they say) and 1-3 inches of rain. Yes, could have been a lot worse! I'll relax more this evening once it passes.
Ted
Hi Guys,
I to have had a few brake flare nuts replaced on my canadian built RHD Q.
The last cracked one I had to get a new line made due to proximity of a bend, the old and new lines were in my daily car when it was stolen, fortunately they were still in the trunk when car was recovered.
I was surprised by the cracked (brass ?) flare nuts but now see it is commonplace.
Regards Des
All this seems to beg the question of safety. Especially if you enjoy driving these cars.
As far as my car is concerned these cracked fittings may have been broken for many years. They weren't noticeable until I removed the front fenders. They are the original copper lines. Anyone know of a hydraulic failure linked to the fittings.
Chet