There is a nice Kingston Vac Tank on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271930954264

Does anyone have cadmium color rims?  What color is it, silver or yellow or

Has anyone replaced their drip rails?  I bought a set of new Model A rails but they are straight and our Plymouth rails curve down at the end.

Does anyone have a source they would recommend for new windshield weatherstrip rubber?  I bought some years ago and the bottom seal worked great but the side pieces did not have any felt in them so the windshield stuck to them and would not slide up and down.  Mr Sapp wrote and article in the Bulletin a while back that seemed to indicate he had a similar problem but implied he was able to find another supplier that was satisfactory.

I want to put new mats on the running board on my 1929 Plymouth.  What is the best adhesive to use?

After 40 years I plan to repaint my 1929 Plymouth.  I would like to hear from some other owners on a few color scheme questions.

1) Is the visor on your car solid black, or the color of the body?

2) Is the moulding on the lower edge of the body the color of the body, or the color of other mouldings, such as the one down the center? 

3) What about the moulding in the outer edge of the hood?


   

I am planning to refresh my car somewhat and have a few questions:

Should beaded fender welt be used between the rear fender and the body?

Should the tail lite bucket be painted or chrome?

Does anyone know of a person that makes replacement wood spokes?  I need to either replace a spoke or replace the entire wheel.  My 29 Plymouth has 20 inch artillery wheels.

My 29 now pulls to the left when I brake.  I pulled both right side wheels and checked the shoes and drums and they were dry, no signs of leaking brake fluid or grease.  I adjusted the brake shoes after I replaced the wheels. 

Any suggestions on what to check?

A few hundred miles ago I did a full 5000 mile service by the manual.  I also had the brake master cylinder rebuilt, and bled the brakes several times until the pedal was good and tight.  After that all seemed quite well, the brakes were working better than they had in a long time.  But one day when I braked the car pulled to the left, and it has been doing that ever since. I now instinctively turn the wheel to the right when I brake so the car will stay straight ahead.   

The instruction book states that the hydraulic brakes are "absolutely self-equalizing in its application." - which indeed they should be.   This leads me to wonder if the wheel alignment might be the problem.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

I attached a Garmin GPS to the windshield to check out how accurate my speedometer is.  At 25-45 mph it was consistently one MPH off.  At 35 mph on the speedometer the GPS showed 36 mph. above 45 it was about 2 mph slow.  At 53 mph on the Speedometer it showed 55 mph on the GPS.  Don't like to take it any faster than that.  Usually drive about 40-45 mph on the county roads.

A few years back I was advised to add a modern oil pressure gauge as the old gauges my not be accurate anymore.  I added an oil gauge from the Autoparts store.  It lasted about three years and broke.  Put another one on it and it too lasted about three years and this past weekend it too broke.  I will stay with just the original, seems to be working good enough.

How are the carriage bolts on the ends of the bumpers kept from turning?  Are they just a friction fit?  Tried to remove them, got the nut off one but cannot get the bolt out.  The carriage bolt on the other end turns when I turn the nut. Do not want to damage them by gripping with channel locks, and do not want to cut them off.  After 42 years I would like to have the bumpers chromed, but do not want to damage anything getting  them apart.  Any experience with this or suggestions for removing? 

Is there any problem using wheel bearing grease specified for wheel with disk brakes on our cars with drum brakes?  I have heard that wheels with disk brakes operate at higher temperatures, and if used on wheels with drum brakes teh grease might not flow properly in the bearings.  The reason i ask is I like to use synthetic grease because it is more stable and will last longer, but I have not found synthetic grease for drum brakes.

Has anyone recently replaced a rear main rope seal?  When I bought my car the rear main seal had been replaced with a split neoprene/metal seal.  Later I obtained a parts engine and removed the rear main seal bracket.  It held a cork seal about 0.250 inchs wide and thick.  I purchase a rope seal for it, but it is much thicker, at about 0.350 inch.  Should I obtain a smaller size rope seal, or stuff the one I have in the bracket?  I have never seen a correct rope seal bracket and would like to know how large they are.

There is a good article on Model A Klaxon Horns in the December 2012 Skinned knuckles magazine (Vol 37 - No. 5).  It covers overhauling and tuning up the Klaxon "Ahh-Ooo-Gha" horns, like the ones on our 28-29 Plymouths.  One interesting recommendation was to apply a film of grease to the face of the agitator to improve the sound.  I tried it and it works well.

Does anyone have an original 1930-U Plymouth Carter Carburetor?  I was wondering what type it was.
Did the 30-U carburetor have the long slender accelerator pump or the short one?  My master parts book shows a picture of a carb with a long slender pump, but the parts list shows a short pump.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a good replacement carb that will easily fit the 28-29 Plymouth?  I would like to get a carb for regular driving and save the original for show only.

Has anyone used a Battery Tender to keep their 6 volt car battery charged?  Do these work well?  Any recommendations?

    I am rebuilding my 29 Plymouth engine (SN U50105).  My car was manufactured approximately May 15, 1929. On this engine, the line to the oil pressure gage comes off an oil galley port on the left rear of the engine under the starter, near the rear main bearing.  I obtained a 1929 parts engine (SN U29287) that was manufactured earlier than my engine.  On this earlier engine the oil line to the oil pressure gage comes directly off the oil pump. I am using oil pump from the parts engine on my rebuilt engine.  This has allowed me to place a second after-market oil pressure gage in my car, with the "new gage" showing the pressure at the pump, and the original gage showing the pressure at the other end of the oil gallery.  When I run the engine, the difference in oil pressure between the two is 5-10 lbs when running at operating speeds (30-40 mph).  At warm idle the two register about the same (~20 psi).  Also, the gage measuring the oil pressure at the pump fluctuates quite a lot, while the oil pressure measured downstream on the original gage is much more steady.  
   Now - I am trying to set the engine oil pressure.  The "May 1929" manual states the oil pressure should be 35-40 psi at normal operating temperature.   I have set it so the oil pressure at the original downstream gage is 32 psi when warm, and the pressure at the gage is about 38 psi. When the engine is cold and run at 30-40 mph, the pressure at the pump is about 45 psi - until the engine warms up.  I hope this is OK?
   My survey question is:
1) What year is your car?
2) Where is the oil pressure line connected - to the oil pump or to the oil gallery under the starter?
3) What is the max oil pressure when run at operating speeds - cold and hot?

John

   

Can anyone tell me what the original cowl lacing looked like?  Was it the flat type ot double beaded type?  And, how wide and thick should it be?

On my radiator shell, I have 3/4 inch wide double beaded lacing, with beads 3/16 inch thick.  However, this seems too thick and narrow for the cowling.

John

Saw this 6 volt fuel pump om ebay.  Can this be used on our 28-31 Plymouths (if the vac-fuel pump does not work)?

Item number: 280435118672

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280435118672&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AWNARL%3AUS%3A1123