My car has seen many repairs and restoration attempts over its long history.  So I am always questioning whether items or construction was original, true to original, or not even close.  Since I have finished the wood framing I have been slowly working on the body work in preparation for the paint shop.  My driver's side front fender had a lot of small holes left from poor body filler repairs.  Metal patches need to be welded to the underside of the fender.  Since I am not an expert welder I decided to remove the fender rather then trying to weld thin steel against gravity. 



Here is my Question:

There are 5 screws holding the fender to the car frame.  Is the picture below representative of how the fender was originally attached or were these screws carriage bolts ?  I had to drill one of these out and the screw and eyelet were brass ?  The square back bolts appear to be original. Does this look and sound correct ??

See picture below of what I have on my car.



Tks Chet...

They are a nice tire. I wish they came in 20"

Anyone know of a source for a new replacement for the 1929U Throwout bearing.  I have the metal housing just need a new replacement bearing.

Tks Chet...

FYI... Will be deleting post in this category which are more than a year old. 

Dave,  The Plymouth engine should be easy after this tractor.  Nice job. Good luck with the rebuild.

I use a motormeter also. Works Great.

Nice explanation John. Many thanks I'll inquire.   Chet

Quote from: Crazydave on December 19, 2018, 10:27:12 AM
Thanks. I can see the look in his face when I ask....

Ballpark idea of cost?

I sent you an email.

Tom,

I was just wondering if the car could be ordered with that fender and trunk from the factory or was it fitted at the dealership ??  Not important just curious ?

Dave,

The Plymouth Instruction Book May 1929 states that the Main Bearings are a special interchangeable type and the connecting rods are manufactured to exact size and are interchangeable without fitting, having bearings of Babbitt, spun into place by centrifugal process.
My rebuilder said that he used inserts for the mains and ground the rods for Babbitt bearings.  Outside of this information I have little to add.   Vintage motor rebuilding is not something I have any experience with?

Chet...

Nice car Dave, I especially like the spare in the wheel well. Do you think that was stock or a dealer upgrade.

Congratulations!!! It's nice feeling to know your car is alive again.

I sent this bunch of parts to a gentleman in Northern Virginia who rebuilds these for his Chevy Club.



He turned that pile of parts into the picture below.  He also made an accelerator for my carb.



The DRT08 is for a Dodge.  He told me he used the right tubes for the Plymouth RT08.  This was in January of this year and I have not had the opportunity to install this carb because my motor is still in the shop.

Not Cheep ($$$$).  You might want to email me for contact info, if interested.  Until I run this carb I am not recommending the re-builder.

PS... The carb should work fine without the accelerator.  Maybe a little slow from the line in a drag race.

Chet...

Straight flare.  I think 45 degree. Would have to check to be sure.

Chet...

 Copper was original to the car. After 90 years my brake lines work great without any leeks.  My assumption is the reasoning for steel was cost.  The flare fittings are still in use today for pneumatics.