Quote from: rwollman on October 30, 2018, 07:30:51 AM
chet -  Still think there may have been additional issues concerning your rebuild but that is between your builder and you.  Good luck - just my 2 cents worth

Thanks for the input and suggestions,  I fully understand the concerns, right now my goal is to get this engine repaired and functioning properly.  The builder is as concerned as I am to accomplish this same goal.  Things happen, and can always be worst but for the most part moving closer to completion.  Fingers crossed.

Chet...

Tom,

Your concerns are very relevant.  I will research the topic and discuss this with the machine shop.  It's my understanding that the builder used assembly grease.  I forgot what type of oil I was using but it was what was recommended for break in by the builder including an additive for that same purpose.

I hope the second time's the charm.  We'll know once he's finished with it. 

Hi Dave, Glad to hear from you.  Thanks for the reply.  How is your car coming ?

Tom,

I primed the engine well before I attempted to start it.  I don't believe you can do that type of damage to the bearings by hand cranking.  But maybe.  I do remember when I first started the engine before the pressure plate went south that the engine squealed for a moment.  I will talk with the builder to determine the best way to ensure positive oil pressure.  I could pump up pressure by hand cranking the engine.  How do you know if there is some crap in the oil ports.

I do remember that the pressure relief valve was adjusted all the way in with pressure very high.  I backed it out after the first run but I think by then the damage was done.   The max pressure should be determined by the spring tension.  Is it possible that the valve could have been placed in backwards or by being all the way in, oil flow was inhibited.

If I would have taken it apart I would know exactly how it goes back.  ??

It appears that engine oil was the problem with my engine.  Builder is going to redo the bearings.  I hope they also clean out the oil ports.  Just in case of debris.

Tom, I think you posted is diagram of the oil system But I can't seem to find it.

Note from the builder:

Chet:
Pulled apart your motor the other day and 2 of the rods are badly damaged.  Definitely a lack of oil which caused the heat buildup and then the babbitt just grabs and tears.  The oil piping may not have been totally primed when it started thus causing the damage.  Will get going on the re-babbitting of the rods.
Will be in touch.
Michael

Ted, 

I think the issue is return on investment.  It's to expensive to only manufacture a few so he would be looking at a production run greater than 50 pieces in order to be cost effective.  Then you need to sell them and I would suspect demand is not that great considering the total amount of pre 1932 Chrysler engines out there and the number of cars fixed with his first effort.   My engine had a square aluminum block drilled for the gear assembly and distributor.  Based on the wear of the part it has probably serviced the car for many years.  It actually worked fine.  I intend to re-drill the housing and install Oilite® Bushing to repair the worn aluminum shaft hole.  It will be a spare part for an unforeseen emergency.  The new CNC part plus the original I was able to pick up, will be used to verify the exact dimensioning of the gear shaft and mounting holes.  Hopefully 

Chet...

Just an FYI,

I tried to order a distributor housing from Tom Hannaford at Then and Now but he didn't have any more housings and didn't have any plans to have anymore made.  At least not in the near future.  I purchased the German CNC machined one from eBay and will be receiving it soon.  Heavy cost factor, but it appears that this might be the only game in town for a new part.  $399 USD.  I'll let you know how this all works out mine was on it's last leg and I figured the engine rebuild deserved a new distributor housing.  I did manage to pick up an original part in fragile condition.  Not usable in a car but great for determining measurements for checking or reverse engineering.

Will let you guys know how this works out but will still have to get my motor back from the shop.  As of last contact.., nothing has be done to it yet.  I have a commitment for these next coming weeks.

Hay thanks frank that explains a lot.

The 630B is the Q distributor and gear set.

The 635T is the U distributor and gear set.  (Makes sense, this is what is on my car)

The 638C seems to be for a 1927 Chrysler 50.  The distributor just came along with the other stuff and I didn't have a base for it.   The drive gear is the same as the 630B.  So maybe it is another version that might work with the Q.  I searched on the web and came up with Distributor 638C is for the 170.3-4cyl 3-5/8 Bore - 1927 Chrysler 50.  I assume the 27 was a Maxwell engine so maybe interchangeable with the Q ??

The Plymouth master parts list for 1929 – 1933 reads as follows for the Distributor on the 28Q 29U

"Distributor Assembly – Order from United Motors Service, Inc. "  Page 101  (8-4)

It appears that the distributor was sold with the base already attached and was not supplied as a separate part.  I was able to research the following Distributors:

The one from my car is a Delco Remy Model – 635T  I also reviewed Delco Remy Model – 638C and Model  630B.  What I founded was that although all three had the same base the 638C and 630B had a different gear set then my Delco 635T

From a glance everything else looks identical.  I was wondering if a mismatch of these distributor bases could cause timing or sputter problems.  Maybe the gear sets basically do the same task even though the gear cut is 180 degrees opposite in design.  Maybe the 638C & 630B are for a Q engine

Anyone have anything to add.  Chet...

Sounds like a great day.  The way things are working out I don't think I will be able to get up there this year. 

Anyway I'm glad you had a nice day.

Chet

Ya, I was going to camp out Thursday and Friday night but not looking so good at the moment.  If I go up at all it would probably be Friday but things aren't looking good at the moment.

Chet...

Hay Ted that really looks good. Do you have original mat and if so is it close

Me too. I'll stay tuned.

Just thought I would check in, things here have slowed down considerably but are looking better.  After having to put the motor back into the shop, loosing the electrical service to my work shop, not to mention week after week of rainy days, I haven't been able to gather the necessary enthusiasm to make any forward progress.   

With better weather at hand I was able to trench the 110 feet to my out building and bury a new power line.  Should be back up and running by Wednesday.   Sounds like an easy task but I have lawn sprinklers so needed to hand dig around the Xfinity line, the irrigation, and the Verizon cable.  Not getting any younger but finally done.  Hence the light at the end of the tunnel.

Nothing new with the car but hopefully with power comes progress.

Speaking of trains the wife and I took a ride on a steam train out of Wilmington, DE.  Click on link to see the steam engine.  File is 110 Meg so it might be slow to load depending on your internet speed.

http://www.1948plymouth.info/SupportPages/images/IMG_1293.MOV

Cheers, Chet...

Quote from: Articifer Tom on October 01, 2018, 09:38:40 AM
Oct 10-13 is correct . Fall weather seems to have hit so maybe chance of dryer  days .

Great, what day or days are you going to be around. 

Quote from: chetbrz on September 30, 2018, 08:19:49 PM
I am looking to get up there at least one day. I'll keep in touch an let you know which day. Probably Friday

Do I have my dates wrong.  Is it the 4th to the 7th.  not the 10th to the 13 October ?

Chet...