Tom,

I'll probably be around one of those days either Thursday or Friday.  I guess it all depends on the weather. 

Chet...

Anyone going to Hershey this year ?

October 10-13 -- Hershey Region Fall Meet

Ted,  Based on your results I think I might go this route once I get my motor back.  Glad to hear about your success.

Ted,

With the three brush generator if you drive a lot at night it should be adjusted up if not as Tom said it should be adjusted down so as not to overcharge the battery.  Regulation is poor, more like what works best for the amount of driving you do.  If you are not having problems let it be.  Follow the code:  "If it ain't broke don't fix it !!"

Chet...

Quote from: racertb on September 08, 2018, 08:12:48 PM
Thanks, please let me know if you do.

Hi Ted,

This is the best I could come up with.  The strap connects to the bottom bell housing (motor) bolt inside the motor mount and the other side connects to the top motor mount frame bolt.  The most important thing is that it ensures good conductivity from the frame to the bell housing and motor.  If you install one make sure no paint or crud insulates the connection.

In the picture below you can see a hint of the strap sticking out the bottom of the motor mount.

Ted,

I don't remember taking a picture of this but I will review my pictures and see if I caught this by accident.

Quote from: Crazydave on September 06, 2018, 06:43:47 PM

Quote from: chetbrz on September 05, 2018, 08:33:47 PM

Also there is a connection from the drivers side head bolt through a grounding block attached to the firewall.  This ensures good grounding to the cowl and dash assembly which is partially insulated by the wood framing. 

Hope this helps,  Chet...

Are you talking about about piece under the brake reservoir? I believe its purpose is limit the engine from twisting (torquing). It's rigid and has vibration damping, (shock absorbing) material behind it. I believe its insulated electrically.

Dave, 

Yes the piece under the brake reservoir.  I also believed it was for dampening engine movement until I took it off the firewall.  The asbestos pad may allow for movement and dampening but the slide section is spring loaded from the top cover.  The top cover is pinned to the base with brass eyelets.  Why use brass ?  See picture below.



I checked with an ohm meter and it does conduct.  But probably not as good as a strap?  I am just puzzled by the brass eyelets.  Brass and copper are usually used for better conductivity. 

Another @#$@ Mystery

Frank et al,

It looks like I need to find a braided flat cable for the positive ground. 

Details, details...

Ted,

This is the ground strap from my car which attached to the passenger side rear motor mount frame bolt and also attached to one of the two bell housing bolts that attach the bell housing to the motor mount.  I don't know if it is original component or added later.  I can say that without cleaning the stuck on grime it was almost unnoticeable. 



Anyway keep in mind that ground is an important conductor to your car's electrical circuit.  Paint, 90 years of corrosion to metal contact surfaces could greatly decrease your current flow.  Ensure that all contact points are clean and well connected.

I would consider Dave's car closer to historical accuracy.  If your ground was attached directly to the bell housing through the transmission bolt it was probably done to provide the most resistive free contact to the starter & motor.  Historically correct I can't say but most practical., I would vote yes.

Ted,

What is your goal.  Are you interested in historical correctness or a good conductive positive ground throughout your car.

Chet...

Ted,

My car also attaches at the transmission bolt.  This provides excellent electrical connection to the motor.  Since the motor is sitting on rubber motor mounts there is also a large copper ground strap on the passenger rear motor mount, connecting electrically the frame to the bell housing. 

As you know.., ground is the other side of the 6vdc electrical circuit for all components.  This ensures good electrical connectivity to all lights.  If you have any issues with dim lights keep this in mind.  Also there is a connection from the drivers side head bolt through a grounding block attached to the firewall.  This ensures good grounding to the cowl and dash assembly which is partially insulated by the wood framing. 

Hope this helps,  Chet...

Great,

That's in line with what I discovered about my old car.  I have had this car for over 10 years and learn something new about it all the time.  Could possibly be that I forget more than I learn.  You know one step forward and two steps back.  LOL

Tks,  Chet..

The stock wiring diagram doesn't show a door switch.

Interesting:

My car doesn't have any glass in it at the moment so I tried to do exactly as mentioned.  I could lock 3 of the four doors by pulling the handle to lock position and then closing the door.  The front passenger door I couldn't lock by lifting the interior handle.  It would seem to me that the key lock handle would be fitted on the drivers side door.

I have not removed or inspected the passenger side door mechanism yet so it could be broken or fitted in a way to ensure that one door has to be operated by the key lock in the handle ??

Just an observation from my car in its present condition.

Nothing yet.

Quote from: rwollman on August 30, 2018, 09:06:54 AM
well that at least .125 thinner - makes sense.

I think like the brake drums.., these items were never designed to be resurfaced.  I think you have a much better chance resurfacing the pressure plate than you have resurfacing the brake drums.  I think the key word is to be ultra conservative and do as little harm as possible.   There was a noticeable visible difference between my old and new plates.  The area from the bottom of the arm post to the surface of a new pressure plate is only about 1/4"  (0.250).  The plate I refurbished was 0.191 when I started and ended up at 0.185.  I would estimate .065" under original size.  I would guess that this is not the first time my new plate was been refurbished.

The old pressure plate would have worked if the arms didn't come in contact with the bearing fork which caused the plate to crack across the arm post.  If we can learn anything about our cars from this mishap it is; never run the engine without the transmission unless you remove the pressure plate and clutch. In my opinion.



The thickness of the metal from the bottom of the arm post to the plate surface on the old pressure plate was approximately 0.065".  If you add this to the 0.125" difference it equals 0.190.  Approximately where I started with my new old plate.

Chet...