Ditto,

Quite an adventure.  Frank please provide updates.  Have a safe and uneventful trip.

PS.., Dash looks great.

Quote from: frankp on July 22, 2018, 02:19:08 PM
My pressure is right at 30.  I expect it to drop a little on long hauls.

Dave's car has the oil gauge and Kingston from the oil pump with very small lines.  He has mentioned this before.  I had remnants of these lines.  Have never located tubing this small in the length requird.

Frank,

I think 1/4" soft copper tubing may work between the Kingston and the oil pump.  1/4" soft copper has an id = 0.190" with wall size = 0.030"  Total = 0.190 + 0.060 = 0.250 or 1/4"

On my car the oil pressure gauge is a steel line but I don't think you can get this in soft steel anymore.

Tom I think you are correct with 1/4" O.D.

Quote from: Russ T. Fender on July 22, 2018, 12:28:57 PM
I repaired a similar pin hole with JB weld but eventually opened it up a bit and brazed it.  The JB weld repair lasted several years, but brazing will last forever.

Thanks Russ,  brazing is not one of my skills.  Maybe the guy in the Napa machine shop near me could direct me to someone who could fix this right.

Chet... 

For the past 3 days I have been doing battle with water leaking from the front screw hole of the motors input water flange.  This is the part that connects to the hose running to the bottom of the radiator.  I assumed that water was getting past the gasket and syphoning through the screw hole closest to the front of the engine.  See picture:



I tried every type of gasket seal from RTV to the old standard Indian Head Gasket Shellac.  In each case I let the flange set over night before adding on the first attempt 50/50.., after that, water was less expensive.  Each time to my disappointment the leak would com back dripping from the screw. 

As a last resort I was going to remove the bolts from the block of which one of these bolts would most likely needed to be cut and drilled out.  Don't ask.!!  My intent was to resurface the motor flange.  Finally I decided to stop reacting and start investigating.  Generally if you think something is the problem and you have fixed that problem a couple of times to no success.., generally the problem is caused by something else.

Since doing the something over and over again expecting a different result is the definition of nuts. I decided to investigate other possible causes.  I thought the housing might be cracked or pitted through to the screw hole.  Well it didn't take long to discover this.  See below the part the wife is holding with flash light behind.



OMG...  Pitted holes right next to the front screw !!  The light at the end of the tunnel.



With the bolt in place the water looked like it was dripping out of the screw hole. 

Sometimes you just have to stop and think and not jump to conclusions. 

Do you think this is a job for JB weld ?

Chet...

Hi Tom

Thanks for the info. Prior to the rebuild my oil pressure was sitting at 35 psi at normal run speed.  Never hit 40 max was around 36 or 37.  Idle at approximately 20 psi. Maybe a little less. We will see what the pressure will be when I get it running again.

My original oil pressure line attached to the output of the exterior oil pump.  None of the motor plugs were being used.

Since my daughter and grandkids headed back to Florida on Monday I was able to get back to work on the engine.  I have install the minimum just to get the engine running.  The old distributor housing, carb, wires/plugs, and circled in red in the picture below is a temporary oil pressure gauge (on left) and a distributor coil with cutout switch powered by the battery no generator.  I finished the exhaust system today and will get the radiator back in before attempting to fire the engine up. 

PS.., I have a new distributor housing on order from "Then & Now" auto parts.  Once everything is working again I will introduce new items like carb and distributor housing but will most likely keep my old solid copper spark plug wires.



I hand cranked oil through the engine by force feeding the input side.  So she should pump oil up no problem.  I also installed the line for the vacuum fuel pump since plugging this line delivers higher than needed oil pleasure. 

I know we have discussed this on numerous occasions but what would the consensus be for max oil pressure.  To high washes out the Babbitt material quicker than necessary.  Almost hard to believe that to much oil pressure can be a bad thing.

Getting close to a restart.

Great info, thanks Tom !!

In the picture below:

Does anyone know what the two screw in plugs labeled 'A' are or were used for ?

Also is the plug marked 'B' above the pressure relief valve able to be used for oil pressure monitoring after the relief valve ?

Tom,

The line from reservoir to master cyl is 5/16" copper tubing with flare connectors.  45 degree flare

You can purchase from Grainger or a good industrial supply company. 

See Link:  ( Click for Long Nuts for proper fittings)  Used on old hydraulics and modern pneumatics.

https://www.grainger.com/category/flared-tube-fittings/tube-fittings/pipe-tubing-and-fittings/plumbing/ecatalog/N-qw3

Quote from: Russ T. Fender on July 06, 2018, 12:09:22 PM
Antifreeze never goes bad but it looses the anticorrosion properties so you no longer get the benefit of that function of antifreeze.  I add anticorrosion supplement to my antifreeze annually and have not changed the antifreeze in my car since 1962.  I do add 50/50 mix to top off the radiator from time to time but since my car runs very cool it rarely needs any added.

What type of anticorrosion additive are you using ?

Hi Dave /Tom,

I have been using the Green Prestone 50/50 for years.  Actually when I drained the radiator it still had its correct color after 10 years of service. Never had a problem with over heating.  Probably hose it out again and put in new. 

Many thanks for the comments,  Chet..

My radiator is in good shape and has been cleaned out not too long ago.  Also when I removed it I washed it out and not much other than clear water came out.  Would like to find someone who could hot tank it but old school radiator shops are pretty scarce these days.

Which brings us to the question: 
What anti-freeze and/or anti-freeze conditioner do any of you guys use in your early Plymouths ??

Chet...

Quote from: rwollman on July 03, 2018, 09:11:26 AM
way to go chet - I have followed yur build with great interest as we have done pretty much the same on the 28 my brother owns . All done except for a fuel pump problem that I am gonna cure if it kills me. Sometimes the littlest things really mess you up....

I know what you mean.  Many highs and lows.  Put the motor into the car on a 99 degree day.  Great day.!!
Then damage the pressure plate.  Super bad. 

Repaired it the next day it was 103 degrees on the pool deck and the water was 90 degrees.  No cooling off even in the pool but it was still a great day.

Grandpa is getting a work out with the grandkids up from Florida for the cooler Northeastern weather. Ha, ha. Heading to the bounce house then the beach today.  Man am I exhausted but it beats the alternative.

Cheers, Chet...

Well I haven't spoken to the builder yet but did crawl under the car and took the arm off the pressure plate.  Yes it was bent mostly where it pins into the housing assembly.  I used a torch to heat the steel before I gently reformed the piece to it's original intent.  I had a spare transmission front cover so with bearing assembly in place I was able to check for clearance.  Everything appears to be OK and the arm heights are all equal.



We'll see what J&M says about this miss-adventure.

PS... Fork tie-wrapped to the bell housing in two places.  This isn't going to happen again.

Chet...

Thanks for your thoughts.  Worst case rwollman.., I hope the pressure plate can be removed without removing the bell housing.  I haven't done this yet on this car but have removed others without removing the bell housing.  Best case I will be able to reposition the arm if nothing is broken.

I should have tie wrapped the fork away from the pressure plate.  At least the engine wasn't under power that would have been a disaster.  I was hand cranking the engine.

Chet...