When I cranked the engine I forgot completely about the fork for the throw out bearing.  I don't think it is bent just out of position.  Any suggestions.  I sent these pictures to the builder.

I'm not liking the stop leak idea.  If the engine had a water pump with positive flow I would be OK with it but not wanting to use this in a thermal-syphon engine.  Also the water system is not pressurized so I think this is overkill.

Got the engine bolted back in so I will use the car as a test bed.  I'll setup the minimum required to get it running with a battery.

I'll keep you guys posted. 

PS.., I think I will treat the engine to a new distributor base.  Will call then & now on Monday.

This topic has been moved to Technical Information 28-30 Plymouth.

http://www.1948plymouth.info/28Q29U/index.php?topic=1231.0

Looks good.., hopefully runs as good as it looks.



Need to run it ASAP.  I guess I might mount it back in the car just so I could hook up the radiator and fire it up with the bare minimum.  Right now still sitting in the back of the pickup.

This is the note I got from the rebuilder:  Any additional suggestions ??

Hello Chet:

Break in sheet is that once engine has oil we recommend 30 weight detergent with zinc Brad Penn brand is good to use.  Where this engine is full pressure and has pressure regulator on drivers side under the cover you may need to adjust it to get best results.  I left it at previous setting, it may be too much now since engine is rebuilt.

Once engine is started you will run for five minutes and stop. Let engine cool off and retorque cylinder head nuts to fifty lbs.  We would also recommend that you fill cooling system with water initially and liquid block sealer "Bahr's Leak" comes in pint bottle to seal studs and head gasket.

After this is done You can restart and break in camshaft by alternating engine on fast idle up and down the rpm range for at least 30 minutes.  I would recommend you have at least an hour of run time on the engine before changing the oil.  Again you can use 30 weight detergent.

It's a simple engine and really straight forward.

I would recommend periodically checking torque on head gasket as well as all bolts and nuts on engine . The engine heats up and cools down the gaskets will expand and contract needing to have bolts and nuts retightened.

Any questions please ask.

Thanks  John 


Chet...

Hopefully that will do it !

What you described seems correct.  Below is a picture of the bottom 'L' bracket.  You are correct this runs the length of the pillar and terminates at the top as a 'T' bracket.



The top bracket:



This might help you but there are differences between original wood construction and my sill & roof frame.

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2017/07302017.htm

Good luck,  Chet...

Prep for Paint - Upper Door Frame Repairs.

Due to the length of this task and the number of pictures I posted a link to the blow by blow description below:

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2018/06102018.htm



Chet...

Link to Build Thread Part 1
http://www.1948plymouth.info/28Q29U/index.php?topic=1102.0

I'm thinking float valve.

Frank,  FYI

All the glass, glass channels, window weather stripping, etc., I will install after the paint.  Makes for a much cleaner look.  The door's center board is easily removed.  Basically I installed the door locks to ensure all doors close properly and it will make the transport easier.  Also less masking for the painter.

Cheers, Chet...

Quote from: frankp on May 23, 2018, 07:37:53 PM
Chet,  Check your link, the one for the plymouthowners.club is correct.

frank

Frank I don't understand. What do you mean about the POC link.

Prep for Paint - Door Repairs.

Lots of things going on this spring but did manage to fit in some car progress.
Due to the length of this task and the number of pictures I posted a link to the blow by blow description below:

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2018/05232018.htm



Chet...

Link to Build Thread Part 1
http://www.1948plymouth.info/28Q29U/index.php?topic=1102.0

Thanks Frank !!

I know which one you mean and I think, worst case, the one you need would be easier to have made than the one I showed in the picture.  Finding a NOS part might be a bit of a challenge have you considered a machine shop or maybe a call to Then and Now Automotive.

http://www.then-now-auto.com/

Are you needing the top part in the picture below.

Yes J&M specializes in antique engine repair.  They do the Babbitt work and any parts they can't find they make.  I have great expectations for this motor and I am glad I went this route.  Its nice that they photograph the progress as they do the rebuild.  Really keeps the customer in the loop.  Big shop and two brothers John & Michael who care about the work they do.