Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - 29UJohn

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 20
1
Glad it worked well!

2
General Discussion / Re: Hello again
« on: December 21, 2018, 07:49:41 AM »
The color looks great!
Hood latches are hard to find. I do not know of anyone who remakes them.
I do not think the taillights had rubbers.  I cut gaskets for mine.

3
General Discussion / Re: My Motor Update
« on: December 21, 2018, 07:42:56 AM »
   Years ago (~1979?) I had my 29U bearings rebabbitted by a local truck shop. I drove it very little for many years while I was in the Army.  In 2003 the car threw a rod bearing. When I disassembled the engine, I discovered that the main bearings had been Groved wrong. Instead of channeling oil to the port in the crank shaft to lube the rod bearings, the groves in the main bearings where channeling the oil away from the port.  It was a wonder the rods received any oil at all.  Fortunately the mains were not damaged, and based on the advice of an experienced Babbitt shop in South Dakota ( unfortunately now closed) I added additional groves in the Babbitt to channel the oil properly.  I only had to have that one rod bearing rebabbitted.
   Also of note, check to see if the engine rebuilder left the small hole open in the rod bearings to allow oil to spray on the cylinder walls.  You can see where the hole should be by looking at the outside of the rod bearing.  Be sure Babbitt is not plugging the hole.
    To prime my engines oil ports, I took a new plastic pressure spray tank, added a pressure gage, then installed a long clear plastic tube with a flare fitting.  I removed the copper U shapped line from the engine oil pump, and attached the plastic hose to the engine oil port, then put about three quarts of oil in the plastic tank, pressurized it to about 25 lbs, and let er rip.  That was plenty enough to force oil to all the lines and move the oil gage.
    I next reinstalled the U shopped copper line to the oil pump and engine, then removed the oil pump cover and put into the pump a little Lucas oil, and reinstalled the pump.
    Then I removed all four spark plugs, sqerted in a little oil for the cylinders, and turned over the engine with the starter ( ignition off) and spun the engine until pressure showed on the gage.  That way I know the oil pump is primed.  Then reinstall the plugs and start the engine.
     Regarding the oil pressure, when adjusting the oil pressure relief valve after an oil pump or engine rebuild, it is best to start at a low psi and work upwards. First remove the pressure relief valve and be sure it is clean and the plunger moves freely in when pushed in.  Then reinstall, leaving the cover off.  Have a screw driver in hand, and have an assistant start the engine.  Have the assistant call out the oil pressure to you while you adjust the pressure at idle to between 15-20 lbs. Then install the locking pin but leave the cover off for now. Next go for a drive and note the pressure at 30-40 mph.  If it is below 30 psi, stop and turn the screw clockwise one half turn, insert the locking pin, and drive it some more at 30-40 mph.  Repeat this until you get approx 30-40 psi at operating speed.  Then reinsert the locking pin and cover on the pressure relief valve.  (The book states 35-40 psi for operating pressure at normal driving speeds, but I run mine at 30-35).  Several things to note, (1) the car can operate fine at only 20-25 psi at 30-45 mph.  (2) Operating at pressures above 50+ psi can quickly damage your pump gear or worse, the cam gear ( I learned this by experience). If the pressure is above 40 psi, I recommend stopping immediately and adjusting the relief valve down (cunterclockwise). (3) lastly, at hot idle the oil pressure can drop as low as ~15 psi with no problems.

4
A Ford Model TT rear wheel puller will work, but you will need a longer center bolt for it, which you can obtain from boltdepot.  The pullers are available from Ford Model T suppliers, such as Snyder’s.

5
Things you are looking for. / Re: 29U Split Rim for Wood Wheel
« on: August 14, 2018, 03:43:28 AM »
I would like to help, but mine are 20 inch. I have spare 20 inch rims.

6
General Discussion / Re: 1929 U windshield removal?
« on: May 27, 2018, 03:08:06 AM »
On it’s way! Let me know when you receive it.

7
General Discussion / Re: 1929 U windshield removal?
« on: May 26, 2018, 07:52:09 PM »
I can email the two page article.  It is  in color and 1.7Meg.  The entire bulletin is packed with color photos and is a very large file.

8
Things you are looking for. / Wiper vacuum valve for dash
« on: May 03, 2018, 03:35:17 AM »
Does anyone know someone who makes Reproductions of the wiper vacuum valve that mounts to the dash?

9
General Discussion / Re: Check out what I bought! 29 model U!
« on: April 25, 2018, 02:27:11 AM »
Do you have assist straps that are attached to the top of the rear pillars, for the back seat passengers to use? 

10
General Discussion / Re: Check out what I bought! 29 model U!
« on: April 25, 2018, 02:22:11 AM »
It looks 95% original to me.  It even has the original carb and air cleaner.  The door handles look good.  The bumpers are 28 but the engine is a 29.   There were not that many Canadian Plymouths built. Maybe it was made in early 29?  The pad around the steering column is original.  I am glad you are taking lots of pictures.

11
General Discussion / Re: How do you remove the front seat?
« on: April 24, 2018, 04:33:46 AM »
Bottom line, the front seat back is a very snug fit.  After the eight screws are removed, it will appear to not move. You have to work with it, try tilting it back, then lifting it out.  It is pretty heavy.

It must be removed to uploster it.

12
General Discussion / Re: How do you remove the front seat?
« on: April 22, 2018, 10:27:38 PM »
Correct, no bolts hold the bottom, but there are two bolt heads in the floor boards that fit into recessed holes along the bottom of the seat back on each end.

13
General Discussion / Re: Check out what I bought! 29 model U!
« on: April 22, 2018, 05:00:27 AM »
My guess it was hand painted.

14
Stuff 4 Sale / Hubcaps for 29 Plymouth Wood Wheels - Reproductions
« on: April 22, 2018, 01:10:45 AM »
I had four sets of hubcaps for 1929 Plymouth wood spoke wheels reproduced and am offering three sets at cost to Plymouth Owners Club members.  These are the “hex” style.  They are cast of marine grade aluminum alloy and can be polished to look like chrome.  The faces are solid which should be less prone to damage than the originals.  As a result, these new hubcaps are almost three times as heavy as the originals.  They fit perfectly and the script “P” on the front is accurate.  However, due to the casting process, there will be some minor cosmetic flaws.  The left two hubcaps in the accompanying photo have been professionally polished.  The unpolished cost is $170 each plus S&H.  A set of four is $700 including S&H.  For professional polishing (by Dan's Polishing and Chrome) add $45 each.  30 day money back satisfaction guarantee, less S&H.  John Fain, 10038 Willow Cove RD SE, Huntsville, AL 35803.  Phone 334-718-6624, call 9 am to 8 pm Central.  Email: JohnRFain@gmail.com

15
General Discussion / Re: How do you remove the front seat?
« on: April 22, 2018, 01:04:41 AM »
You have to remove the upolstery panels nailed on the side piller above the seat.  There will be four screws to remove on each side.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 20