Is there any problem using wheel bearing grease specified for wheel with disk brakes on our cars with drum brakes?  I have heard that wheels with disk brakes operate at higher temperatures, and if used on wheels with drum brakes teh grease might not flow properly in the bearings.  The reason i ask is I like to use synthetic grease because it is more stable and will last longer, but I have not found synthetic grease for drum brakes.

Has anyone recently replaced a rear main rope seal?  When I bought my car the rear main seal had been replaced with a split neoprene/metal seal.  Later I obtained a parts engine and removed the rear main seal bracket.  It held a cork seal about 0.250 inchs wide and thick.  I purchase a rope seal for it, but it is much thicker, at about 0.350 inch.  Should I obtain a smaller size rope seal, or stuff the one I have in the bracket?  I have never seen a correct rope seal bracket and would like to know how large they are.

There is a good article on Model A Klaxon Horns in the December 2012 Skinned knuckles magazine (Vol 37 - No. 5).  It covers overhauling and tuning up the Klaxon "Ahh-Ooo-Gha" horns, like the ones on our 28-29 Plymouths.  One interesting recommendation was to apply a film of grease to the face of the agitator to improve the sound.  I tried it and it works well.

I believe our early Plymouth's had Goodyear tires as original equipment.  These have the diamond tread.  Mr Kelsy owns the rights to early classic Goodyear tires.  10 years ago I purchased a set from Kelsey Tires.  However, he has not made any 20 inch tires in years, and only carries them in 19 inch size.

Does anyone have an original 1930-U Plymouth Carter Carburetor?  I was wondering what type it was.
Did the 30-U carburetor have the long slender accelerator pump or the short one?  My master parts book shows a picture of a carb with a long slender pump, but the parts list shows a short pump.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a good replacement carb that will easily fit the 28-29 Plymouth?  I would like to get a carb for regular driving and save the original for show only.

I found this web page for Deltran Battery Tenders

http://batterytender.com/

The 6 Volt models are $39.95 (0.75 Amp) and $64.95 (1.25 Amp). 

Has anyone used a Battery Tender to keep their 6 volt car battery charged?  Do these work well?  Any recommendations?

Contact the Restoration Supply Company, www.restorationstuff.com, or call 800-306-7008

Tom Hannaford can take yours and put new rubber in it. It is vulvanized.  He fixed mine and it fit perfectly.  Google the Antique Auto Cellar, or Then and Now Autos.

Chet is correct, and the drawing is correct.  That tab (#2) doesn't do anything but serve as a wire restraint. The horn is grounded by the horn button.

you can clean them out with kerosene.  I use 85W-140 in my 29U tranny and differential.

Ted,
   I believe you have it set up correctly.  I have a large original lubrication chart that shows the chassis (like the one in the middle of the Instruction Book, only larger) and it shows the bolts installed the way you have them.  I installed mine incorrectly with the nuts all in the rear because that was how they were when I bought my car.  Although the clearance is close, I have never had any problems.  
  As for the buckle washers, the Master Parts Book lists 42 in all, which indicates they were between and on both sides of each disk.  I do not know why they need to be on the spider flange side though.  Since I was short some buckle washers, I used flat washers on each outside (i.e., next to the bolt heads and the nut) until I was able to find some extra ones.
  If you drive the car a lot, eventually you will have to tighten the nuts.  After several years I had to add washers so that the cotter pins would line up properly with the castellated nuts.  Recently I installed all new disks, in which case I did not need any extra washers. (The picture I had was of the older worn disks, before I replaced them with new ones.)
   On page 47 of the Instruction Book is the section on Universal Joints.  It recommends the nuts "be kept tight at all times and inspection of this is recommended at intervals of about every 5000 miles."   
 John

Chet is right.  No metal to metal, so the fabric disks allow the shafts to flex.  Also, don't use any lock washers.  They will not work for this application, as the disks will compress over time and the lockwashers will loosen up.  Better to get a machine shop to drill the holes for you and use cotter pins.  Most castle nuts you buy will be grade 2, which is really not good.  If it were mine, I would have some grade 5 nuts made into castle nuts, and also use grade 5 bolts.  These bolts and nuts were not graded back then, but they used very good ones, somewhere between modern grade 5 & 8.  As for the buckle washers, just replace the missing ones with similar sized large washers.  I did that for a long time with no problem, until I found some spares off an old parts car.  If you really want more buckle washers, I can look around, I may have a few spares left, but not many.

I recently replaced the disks in my car.  I still have the old set that were installed in the mid 70's.  They measure about 3/8 inch thick, so three would be 9/8 or 1&1/8 inch.  They compress with buckle washers, so even with the washers installed the three in the rear are just over one inch thick.