Tom Hannaford can take yours and put new rubber in it. It is vulvanized.  He fixed mine and it fit perfectly.  Google the Antique Auto Cellar, or Then and Now Autos.

Chet is correct, and the drawing is correct.  That tab (#2) doesn't do anything but serve as a wire restraint. The horn is grounded by the horn button.

you can clean them out with kerosene.  I use 85W-140 in my 29U tranny and differential.

Ted,
   I believe you have it set up correctly.  I have a large original lubrication chart that shows the chassis (like the one in the middle of the Instruction Book, only larger) and it shows the bolts installed the way you have them.  I installed mine incorrectly with the nuts all in the rear because that was how they were when I bought my car.  Although the clearance is close, I have never had any problems.  
  As for the buckle washers, the Master Parts Book lists 42 in all, which indicates they were between and on both sides of each disk.  I do not know why they need to be on the spider flange side though.  Since I was short some buckle washers, I used flat washers on each outside (i.e., next to the bolt heads and the nut) until I was able to find some extra ones.
  If you drive the car a lot, eventually you will have to tighten the nuts.  After several years I had to add washers so that the cotter pins would line up properly with the castellated nuts.  Recently I installed all new disks, in which case I did not need any extra washers. (The picture I had was of the older worn disks, before I replaced them with new ones.)
   On page 47 of the Instruction Book is the section on Universal Joints.  It recommends the nuts "be kept tight at all times and inspection of this is recommended at intervals of about every 5000 miles."   
 John

Chet is right.  No metal to metal, so the fabric disks allow the shafts to flex.  Also, don't use any lock washers.  They will not work for this application, as the disks will compress over time and the lockwashers will loosen up.  Better to get a machine shop to drill the holes for you and use cotter pins.  Most castle nuts you buy will be grade 2, which is really not good.  If it were mine, I would have some grade 5 nuts made into castle nuts, and also use grade 5 bolts.  These bolts and nuts were not graded back then, but they used very good ones, somewhere between modern grade 5 & 8.  As for the buckle washers, just replace the missing ones with similar sized large washers.  I did that for a long time with no problem, until I found some spares off an old parts car.  If you really want more buckle washers, I can look around, I may have a few spares left, but not many.

I recently replaced the disks in my car.  I still have the old set that were installed in the mid 70's.  They measure about 3/8 inch thick, so three would be 9/8 or 1&1/8 inch.  They compress with buckle washers, so even with the washers installed the three in the rear are just over one inch thick.

I agree.  The new disks will compress against each of the waffle washers (buckle washers) and will tighten enough to get the castle nuts on. 
I put a new set on a few years ago and had a similar problem, but when I evenly tightened the nuts, I was able to get the cotter pins in. 

Do not use lock washers.  You must use the castellated nuts and cotter pins.  The disks will wear over time and so the lockwashers will not do the job.  In fact, you should check the disks often after installing new ones, as you may have to tighten them once later.

I believe Tom Hannaford at Then & Now Auto Parts (Antique Auto Cellar) has new style NOS replacement spring hangers for 28-30 Plymouths. 

Wow - that looks great!

I have never used these, but I do not think the reducer nut is supposed to cover the hole in the fellow.  It must be smaller so it can go thru the felloe and be tightened snug against the rim.  Probably will have to use a thin wall deep well socket, or, maybe even use the dust cover to install the reducer nut.

Try (207) 839-4605

If you cannot reach him, you could try calling Odat Machine Inc.  332 New Portland Rd. Gorham, ME. 04038 (207) 854-2310.

Gene used to work there.  That is how he came to make the fabric U-joint Disks.

John

Not sure, but I would not count on it.  There are many different threads sizes.  The one for the Ford Model TT Truck fits perfectly. 

Ted,
I can loan you my removal tool if you want.  Could mail it by Post Office in "If it fits, it ships" box.
John

I highly recommend Gene Bibber.  He has been making them for years and they are excellent and reasonably priced.  Last I checked with him, a set of 5 was $125.  Three discs go on the differential end and two go on the transmission end of the drive shaft.  The color is cream.  I have a set on my 29U Plymouth 4 DR Sedan (a driver) and they look and work great!

Gene Bibber
135 Brackett Road
Gorham, Maine  04038
Email:  missmud31@msn.com 

Best to send Earl or Jeff Buton and email with that question.