I drilled out he fitting and then used a easy out

I broke off the T brass fitting on the top of pump.  The one that goes to the vacuum canister.

How is the drive gear held on?  Is it will a roll pin or just the nut?

I had my oil pump rebuilt about 2 years ago during the engine rebuild.  It has a total of 200 miles.  The oil pump shaft broke and caused the cast iron housing to brake.  I found a spare engine strip for parts and got a good oil pump core.  I plan to pull the "fingers" from the rebuilt pump and use them in the parts engine core.  The question I have is, should I hone the housing or not?  The fingers you can see in the photo are not sharp but well rounded, so it must have some wear on it.

Harkins did bearings for by 29 and did work for my 42 Buick and rehabbing a old pump jack. His shop is like a museum.  It is like walking into a machine shop from the 30's. Most of his machines were belt powered from a over head line of pulleys when they were new. Most are now run off of 220 volt .   The floor is covered with boxes from all over the country.

Nothing yet

Not much to report with me.  Since my oil pump broke, my car it collecting dust. 

Is the oil pump the same on early and late 4 cylinders?

Mine over heated every few miles.  I had a local radiator check the flow and it checked ok (twice).  It kept over heating and I ultimately had it recorded (brass radiator works?sp).  No longer over heats, I went with a model A looking core vs honey comb.  It does not look as nice but was cheaper.  I also added a 4 blade fan which replaced the orginial two blade.  That moves a lot more air.
I also use water ( instead of antifreeze).  I ran it few times last year in 90 plus weather for 30 miles trips with no issues.  I do wish it had a temp gauge.  Just would make me feel better.

I got my model A carb off ebay.  Few hundred bucks for a fresh rebuilt one. My 29 is a daily driver in the summer and with the addition of electric fuel pump, very reliable.

I used a carb from a model A.  It bolted on but the choke lever is reverse.  The choke knob is pulled all the way out (open choke) and pushed in for starting ( closed choke).   I live in the country and the original air cleaner is good to keep out small rocks.  You can use a modern air filter on the model A carb.  I had plans on changing to the original carb at shows but that turned out to be such a pain.  Never had anyone tell me it was the wrong carb.

I had over heated once and blew the head gasket.  Not sure, now that I think about it, chicken/egg thing.  Did I have a leaking gasket that lead to over heating or the other way round.  I did check the plugs, all the same gray.  I have zero fuild loss now so I doubt a leak some where.
Currently, it is the best I have ever had it running.  I am not messing with it.
I really need to make sure I drain the system this fall or I will be posting a request on how to weld a cracked block.
Rusty

I have had a problem with over heating.  I have had a new radiator core (from brass works) along with a 4 blade fan blade( off a40 dodge) and she still ran hot.  It would boil away radiator fluid and every gas fill up I was adding more fuild.  I was using 50:50 water/prestone.
I then tried 100 percent water from the garden hose, it worked. Worked great.
Ran cooler, no needing to frequently add more.  I have added some water wetter for the anti rust effect.
What do most people run in there thermo sphion radiators?
I use a old John Deere two clyinder with thermo sphion that has 50:50 mix and never had any issues even on 90 degree days under heavy use ( plowing).
Rusty

Sdglen, I plan on going this sat.  The problem I had with rad fluid is that I had over heated due to a plugged rad.  I blew rad fluid all over the hood .  I never cleaned off the fluid for 6 months which very much stained the paint permently. My fault completely.  I figured plain water would be less harmful to paint.  If I wash off any spilled fluid, then my problems would be solved.  I did place some Teflon pipe sealer on the radiator hoses, that worked nice, zero leaks.  Rusty

I will look for such, thanks.  My orginial honeycomb rad leaked and had terrible flow and got replaced. rusty