I really don't think they are factory but I can't even guess what they are for. BTW I still need a rod or could even get by with a couple of good bolts.
Can't help with the picture but I might have a set of old rod cap bolts. I'll look when I get home.
Thanks in advance if you can come up with a bolt or two. For now I am robbing parts off the spare motor. I am on about plan z but maybe it will work. I think I said earlier that the whole problem was caused by some idiot switching the #3&4 rod caps. Of course they wouldn't fit and I'm sure the crank locked up when he torqued them. His solution was to leave them finger tight and wire the nuts.
I can't believe it ran as long as it did but from the carbon and sludge it was many miles ago. The wire on #3 broke and the nuts backed off even further. The rod got enough slack to hit the piston skirt. Not only that he broke a couple of rings when he put the pistons in.
I haven't had any luck finding anyone to rebabbit the rods in a timely manner so I switched the caps back and measured the bearings. They actually are about as round and have the same clearance as the other two. I found 1 .060 over piston but no rings to fit these old pistons. I ended up getting a whole set. The new pistons use a modern ring package with 3 rings instead of 4.
There are quite a few other little things the idiot screwed up like not drilling the oil hole in a couple of rods and rounding off the bolt head on one of the wrist pin bolts. I'm not pulling the motor so I hope everything on the mains is right. It did run pretty good and had good oil pressure so maybe I can patch it up to last as long as I do.
I at least will be able to get rid of that ugly John Deer paint!
Can you post pic and length . i have spare rod bolts from my lasted endeavor on a 31 PA engine .Would probability use cotters instead of wire .
Is this what you are looking for. I have a complete engine set of 8.
see below:
CapBolt-02.jpg
The bolt measures 2.680 long and across the flats on the head is about .440. I think these were keyed at the factory but the bozo that can't tell a 1 from a 2 or a 3 from a 4 on a rod got lazy and used safety wire. He also just used silicone for a pan gasket, rounded a head off on a wrist pin bolt and must have been stronger than smart because the head studs were so tight that I spent hours with a propane torch and penetrating oil to get the nuts to break. I limited myself to a 12" boxed end wrench so I wouldn't twist one off.
Quote from: chetbrz on June 21, 2023, 03:25:31 PMIs this what you are looking for. I have a complete engine set of 8.
see below:
CapBolt-02.jpg
See my above post. If they are the same shoot me a price. Thanks
These bolts are from my 29u engine. The shop that rebuilt the engine didn't want to reuse the original bolts. They used new ones. ??? If you need them you can have them for postage.
Quote from: chetbrz on June 21, 2023, 07:37:50 PMThese bolts are from my 29u engine. The shop that rebuilt the engine didn't want to reuse the original bolts. They used new ones. ??? If you need them you can have them for postage.
Sure! I trust them better than the bolts I have. I doubt yours have been ran loose! Do you have my address?
Email your address. chetbrz@aol.com
Quote from: chetbrz on June 22, 2023, 06:39:16 AMEmail your address. chetbrz@aol.com
Did my email go through?
Quote from: Touring29 on June 22, 2023, 05:47:50 PMQuote from: chetbrz on June 22, 2023, 06:39:16 AMEmail your address. chetbrz@aol.com
Did my email go through?
I checked my spam folder and there you were. I no longer have PayPal. I use Venmo or a check. No big deal it's just postage.
Quote from: chetbrz on June 22, 2023, 08:01:56 PMQuote from: Touring29 on June 22, 2023, 05:47:50 PMQuote from: chetbrz on June 22, 2023, 06:39:16 AMEmail your address. chetbrz@aol.com
Did my email go through?
I checked my spam folder and there you were. I no longer have PayPal. I use Venmo or a check. No big deal it's just postage.
I haven't used Venmo but I will gladly drop you a check in the mail. I'm good for it just ask rustyfender! (Val Soupios) I wonder where your rebuilder got new bolts? Just curious. I have rebuilt hundreds of more modern engines and have sometimes replaced the bolts and sometimes used them with 100,000+ miles. Either way I have never had one fail. I did have the little 5/16 bolts on a s/b ford stretch and loose their tension allowing some bearings to spin but we were revving it way past its design limits.
When I was a kid I had a 49 Chevy pickup. Those had babbitt bearings. It had a rod knock the whole time I had it. I sold it to a guy who was going to put a s/b Chevy in it. He decided to blow it up first. He ran that poor thing wide open in low gear for quite some time and never did get it to quit!
I believe CRB-481 bolts with CRN-453 nuts match .Cross also to 58-68 Ford (352)+(390)engine bolts . Finding and price is another story .
Quote from: Articifer Tom on June 23, 2023, 11:53:03 AMI believe CRB-481 bolts with CRN-453 nuts match .Cross also to 58-68 Ford (352)+(390)engine bolts . Finding and price is another story .
The bolts for a FE Ford might be the same but I worked at a Ford dealership back in the 70's and none of the engines had keyed rod bolts. The keys aren't really needed if the rods are torqued right. The industry stopped doing that many decades ago. Never the less I'll key these when I put them back just to keep it as original as I can. After all they have holes in them so why not?