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Messages - racertb

#391
Check this out from the Plymouth Bulletin regarding 4cyl Spark Plug Gap and Timing:

http://plymouthbulletin.com/smf/index.php?topic=327.0
#392
The motor was rebuilt in the mid-80's when my Dad had the car, so I don't know exactly what was done to the motor.  I just know it was rebuilt. I think the receipts are somewhere in a box so I could see what was done or not done to it.

I was also wanting to look at my spark plug gap as well to see if it might help he miss...I heard some Model A folks like a slightly bigger gap for a smoother idle.   Any thoughts on this?  I realize this won't help any possible valve issue, but just trying to see what else I can do with what I have to work with.

I also can work on the carb since I have a new kit and float for it, but might hold off on that for now.
#393
Thanks Chet, let me know if you ever put on the '29.  I had it around 18-19hg max, but purposely backed  it down a little.  After adjusting the mixture and idle on the carb, I called it a day.  This is about the same as it was before when it quit on me.   I would think that if my cam gear was bad, the car wouldn't be running.

I need to figure out the fluctuation issue, whether it's valves or something else.
#395
Update... Got the distributor advanced and car sounds better, but still not great.  With vacuum gauge, needle fluctuating around 17hg.  Carb mixture screw backed out just about one turn.   This is the best I can do at the moment with just playing with the distributor and carb adjustment.  Still a miss out of the tailpipe.

Since the car is on jack stands (I wanted to keep it off the tires since its been down a while), I ran it through the gears up to about 30-40 mph.  It sounded better at the higher speeds, but still coughed through the carb occasionally at lower speed acceleration.

I will post a video soon hoping for some feedback...
#396
Ok, got her running yesterday for about 5 minutes then cut her off...had to go finish Christmas shopping!

I celebrated that minor victory and have a lot more to do. I only rechecked TDC on #1 and looked at the valve positioning, especially on #4.  She fired up and without doing anything else, she ran real rough and I had to pull the throttle lever down to keep her running.  There was a steady "popping" from the exhaust.  I just wanted to listen and observe (again, a minor victory!)

I'm off for the next week, so I plan on getting back out there and putting the vacuum gauge back on it.  I believe at this point it the timing needs to be advanced.  I also think I still have a carb issue, but I'm going to hold off on that for now.

One interesting note that may not have anything to do with anything... I put the "old" distributor cap on (after checking for spark earlier at the coil wire)  just for grins.  I noticed the old cap fits a little tighter than the newer one I have been using because I can feel the old cap pushing down on the rotor button.  Don't know if this is significant or not... more to come.

Ted
#397
Hi Ian,

I took a break from the car for a while until this week and next to work on it. Been busy at work and now with the holidays, I'll have more time to play with it.

I'll keep you posted.  Thanks for asking.

Ted
#398
Hey guys:

Not running yet, still playing with it but I think I'm close.  Plugs clean and gapped, points clean and set to .20 and valves appear to be in correct position.    Firing order 1342, distributor turns clockwise.  She was kicking back a little (too advanced) so was using Ian's suggestion of using dash control to retard until it got close.  By that time, battery was done, so plugged in charger.  Haven't tried today, but possibly tomorrow.

I may have to re-position the distributor as well.  Will keep you posted.  If you think  of anything else I should try, please let me know. 

#399
Thanks Ian!  The last few times I tried to start the car (last weekend and prior) I know it was too advanced because it was cranking slow and I was getting the kickback as you describe.  No matter how many times I tried and followed the manual, I couldn't get her going and was driving myself crazy.  I'll be playing with this more tomorrow.

So, I assume #1 valves are to be closed similar to my photo (compression) and #4 should look like you describe?

I can tell you that I'm going to leave the valve cover off until I get it right and then I'll be making some markings to save me time in the future!
#400
I'll be working on the car this weekend, but here are a couple photos of the valve positioning and where they ended up after doing the "finger method" finding TDC on #1.  Although I've done this before, the last couple times the car wouldn't start.  That's why I started this thread on what position the valves should be in.  I also wanted to observe to make sure everything appeared to be working properly with the valve cover off.

Here's the #1 valves, although they look slightly uneven to me, this is what they look like after finding TDC.  I may need to make sure they're even (?):





Here's what #4 looks like with the exhaust valve opening/open:






Does this look correct?  Wrong?  Hard to say?



#401
Thanks Rich.  I've tried to get that plug out in the past and had no luck.  Your last sentence regarding the inlet valves opening at 5 deg. after TDC, are you referring to #1?
#402
Thanks for the replies...those instructions 29plycoop looks like they're straight out of the instruction book, which I have.  I see it says  "#4 piston going up on the exhaust stroke...".   I'm trying to make sure I know what this looks like when looking at the valves.  Does this mean that the #4 intake valve is closed and the exhaust valve is open?  That's what I'm visualizing.  Is that correct?

Imoore - what you describe seems to be the opposite, #4 closed/closing and intake open
#403
I'm thinking that #4 exhaust valve should be open and intake closed, since #4 piston should be going up on the exhaust stroke.  Is this correct?
#404
General Discussion / Engine Timing and Valve Positioning
November 11, 2014, 06:23:44 PM
All:

Haven't been able to work on the car for a while until this past weekend.  I want to get the timing right and have a question about the valve positioning.  I've pulled the valve cover and wanted to make sure that all the valves look like they are moving and operating smoothly.  I had my son turn the engine over several times via the crank and everything appears to be working as far as I can tell in the valve train, so I am assuming there are no sticking valves.

My question is regarding valve positioning and TDC.  I want to make sure that when I static time the car (finger in the #1 spark plug hole method) to find TDC, the valves are positioned in the correct manner.  I know that #1 valves should both be closed (bottomed out on these motors), but what should #4 valves look like?  Should they too be closed as well?  Just want to make sure to see if this matches what I think it should be with the "finger in the hole" method.  Once I get this right, I want to mark the crank and another reference point for future reference.

Also I also plan to rebuild the carb since the last time out it flooded so bad the car stalled.

Thanks for your help...




#405
General Discussion / Re: Car is down again...frustrated
October 27, 2014, 04:09:52 PM
Thanks...I called them and they wanted $60 for the kit so I called Daytona Parts in New Smyrna Beach, FL where I ordered a kit years ago when I rebuilt the carb.  The kit was $30 and a NEW brass float was $40, so I got one of those too.  Should have it here in a few days.