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Messages - Roland

#1
General Discussion / Re: 1931 PA - Ignition timing
June 06, 2014, 12:54:55 AM
Chet,
is much better now!
1. Changed the Spark Plug Wires to copper wires,
2. set Valve timing
3. changed the Carburetor

Every step was an improvement! But I think that the main problem was the carburetor.
The car now runs quite well. But there's still some space of improvement, especially when the Engine warms up, it still "misfires".

Thanks for all the help, great job!!!
Roland
#2
Hi Patrick,
how is it going, have you already changed the seal?
Was it the correct seal??
#3
I haven’t done it yet, but as far as I know, it’s only necessary to drop the Driveshaft and remove the Hand Brake Drum(82), now you should have access to the “Free wheeling drive shaft bearing oil seal assembly”(87). The Oil seal should be a SKF 17386 - CRW1R (I’m not 100% sure but I read it somewhere)

#4
General Discussion / Re: 1931 PA - Ignition timing
April 21, 2014, 11:14:40 PM
Good point Chet. "Something arcing lowering the sparkplug output." - Will try to get copper wires and check the electric circuit again!!!!
You are right, everything checked for vacuum leaks.

Just want to say, I very appreciate your help and time you are investing to assist me.
Thank you,
Roland
#5
General Discussion / Re: 1931 PA - Ignition timing
April 19, 2014, 02:28:59 AM
Chet,
Here we go, hope the link will work!!

http://mustang2.magix.net/album/alle-alben/!/oa/7069729-99480873/

#6
General Discussion / Re: 1931 PA - Ignition timing
April 17, 2014, 02:22:32 PM
QuoteI added to my post "21 inch of mercury = 10.31 psi   So 9 psi at idle may not be a problem if you are measuring in psi."

Sorry for all the trouble but it is a good problem to get the old brain working.

I actually noticed it.
I've read somewhere that it should / can be 15psi = 29,53 inch of mercury.

You are right, but would be brilliant if it comes to an happy end someday!
I keep you informed!
Thanks!!
#7
General Discussion / Re: 1931 PA - Ignition timing
April 17, 2014, 01:33:56 PM
You are right – every avenue.
Capacitor is new as well!!
Distributor cap is the only thing what is not new (don't have it in spare). But a good point, will looking after one soon.
I checked the Valve adjustment as well, they are not to tight. But I must admit to my shame that I haven't done it very often. I checked the valves when they were closed and followed the Owner's Manual for Cyl. 1 and 4. :-[
I installed a new set of plug wires this morning (not bunched together in the wire holder), haven't fire the engine yet (low battery).
The "unusually" is since I bought the car, it was never running quiet good. I haven't used the PA a lot (around 300miles after restoration), but this summer I will have him on the street as much as possible.
You are right 9PSI is low, i suspect to low. Manifold is checked for cracks. Not sure about the carb.
About your 29 - never touch a running system ;)

Thanks Chet!!

PS: The reading I am using is BAR, I converting it to psi.
#8
General Discussion / Re: 1931 PA - Ignition timing
April 17, 2014, 11:13:55 AM
Chet,
distributor coil is brand new
misfire is quite constant at idle. Is changing when I adjust the Ignition.
Vacuum is 9psi steady at idle (goes to 0psi as soon I touch the gas pedal) Think it should be around 15psi, but can't get more out of it. Idling Screw ΒΌ turn out, everything else makes it worse
Compression on al 4 Cyl. is around 75psi (cold engine)
misfire is constant while driving, getting worse at higher speeds
distributor cap looks like new – Shaft as well, and the centrifugal timing (springs and weights) are moving
wires - tested but will try new ones asap

You asked me why I think it can be the Carburetor, well I tried quite everything. So I don't know, just guessing and trying another opportunity. :-\

I think it would be a good idea to make a movie and post a link where you can hear the PA running, but will take some time (I'm a bit busy this days)

Thank you very much for your assistance,
Roland

PS: Talked to a guy around here, he said he may have a "Zenith 1" for me just for testing.
#9
General Discussion / Re: 1931 PA - Ignition timing
April 16, 2014, 03:22:34 PM
Thank you guys, :)
I tried everything with the ignition, so I'm not that sure about the ignition problem anymore.
I think it's time to pay more attention to the carburetor. It's a Carter BB-1 - 245SD ( 2 3/8" Stud Centers – Throttle Bore 1 7/16" ) and I'm trying to get another Carb just to see if the problems are more on the fuel side.

Ian, from your Post (October 15, 2013, 03:18:42 AM) do you know which carburetor are on your car? Is it a Stromberg?
I'm asking because it may be easier to convert to a downdraft carb, as to look for a updraft carb in my area. Searched the forum/net and made me a little list, seems this carburetors eventually working on the PA:


Updraft carburetors:
Tillotson "JR4 A" or ,,Model X"
Zenith-1 
Carters (OEM D209S) bb1, 4A3,

Downdraft carburetors: (seems that everyone needs modification to make the stud holes line up)
Carter WO 146-249
Stromberg: EXV2 (not sure about them)

I'm sure you guys know some more, I would very appreciate if you can post them??

Thanks again and happy Easter,
Roland

PS: Chet, I did a complete restoration on the Engine, so it should be mechanically okay.
#10
General Discussion / 1931 PA - Ignition timing
April 15, 2014, 03:31:17 PM
Hello,
The engine in my Plymouth PA is misfiring and is not running very smooth as well.
I'm quite sure it comes from a bad ignition timing, but I have some problems to set it right. Which probably is due to my lack of experience with this ignition system. I think the "automatic spark advance" is my main problem.
Somebody told me the vacuum only pulls the distributor to full advance as soon the engine fires and stays in this position? In my case this can't be, but I'm not sure if everything is OEM on my Distributor.
Pulling means it will set the Distributor (clockwise) to the full retarded position and as soon the engine revs (no vacuum) it will advance the spark to the full advanced position by the internal spring in the "automatic spark advance unite" (counterclockwise).
So when the Engine is not running, the distributor is full advanced and retards as soon the Engine idles (max. Vacuum)

The owner's manual (Page 42) is also contradictory on this point:
"Spark Advance (Automatic): For all road driving conditions the spark is automatically advanced by the engine speed. A mechanical-vacuum control retards the spark at low speeds when the throttle is closed and the engine is idling. When cranking the engine by hand, the spark is in its **full retarded position and advances the moment the engine starts to run under its own power."

**how can it be in his full retarded position without vacuum???

Question: Should I set the Ignition timing (0.046" before TDC) in the full retarded position or in the full advanced??

Any help would be appreciated!

Thank you in advance,
Roland
#11
Hello to everyone,
my Name is Roland from Bavaria/Germany, started to restore a 31 PA Fordor Sedan a couple month ago.
Just would introduce my self before I start asking many questions.  :)
As you may can imaging I'm around 8.000mls away from good parts stores, etc.
Hope I can gain some information's about early Plymouth here.

Thank you in advance for any help.
Roland