Yes - just run it on regular. 

Even at that, you will find that if you try to set the timing by the owner's manual, it will run rough, if at all.   Reason is, fuel in 1929 had a much lower octane and so ignitied much faster than today's fuel.  There are no timing marks on the 28Q or 29U.  You will have to adjust the timing by ear, advancing it somewhat.  So, if you try and set it by the manual, and it refuses to run, advance the distributor a little and try again.  The simplest method - once you get her running - is to adjust the distributor at idle to obtain the fastest rpm, then turn it back just a hair.  You can also attached an RPM meter (set for a 4 cylinder).  There are other methods, and I am sure you will hear from others.

Good luck.   

The 28Q and 30U did not have hardened valve seats.  There are many diferent opinions on lead substitute additives.  I use Bardahl Instead O' Lead on my 29U.  However, I do not use the octane boost version - these cars ran on much lower octane than we have today, so you do not need an octane boster.

The clutch throwout bearing has it's own return spring that is separate from the clutch pedal return spring.  On my 29U, it attaches to a small knotch on the bottom of the upper access opening to the clutch (i.e., the access opening that you use when putting grease into the bearing.)  This same spring was used for many years.  I recently obtained a new exact replacement from PowerWagens for just a few dollars. 

Rich Rodgers advertises on ebay and claims to have a good supply of both pilot bearings and throwout bearings for old cars.  I have never done business with him, so I cannot vouch for him.  Here is his email address:

Rich Rodgers:  fishn@centurytel.net

 
Thanks guys - All is well with the fuel pump!

I took the 29U on several test drives this weekend and the pump is working well, and not overflowing.  I am amazed that the Kingston Vac Pump does not have any check valve to prevent gas from being drawn into the oil pump.  It appears Chet is right - the system is in balance somehow with a well vented gas tank. 

I put new gaskets on the old original gas cap, but ensured that the cap vent was well open.  The gas tank does not appear to be leaking any at the cap or gas gage, so all seems well and good.

George,
   I bought one from Carson's a few years back.  They had two more at that time, however, they were pricy at $60 each.  I could have done better on ebay.  They do not show up often on ebay, but every now and then I see one.  In any case, be sure you get a good description, as some of the old Master Parts lists for Starter switches are not correct.   Carson's, 235 Shawfarm, Holliston, MA 01746, PH: 508-429-2269
   If I were you, I would try and take it apart.  Most likely the contacts are burned. If so, you can sand them clean and reassemble the switch.  You have nothing to lose.  I fixed an old Model T floor switch that way.
John
29U 4 Door Sedan

Thanks guys.  I drained the vacuum tank completely, cleaned the lower unit out and made sure the upper vacuum tank was empty.  I cleaned the glass bowl and filter screen while I was at it, and put in a new filter bowl gasket.   I then added enough clean fuel to allow the engine to start.  I replaced the "new" gas cap with the original one, but first I checked it and made sure it had a good vent, which it does.  So now I need to test it out.  However, must wait till next weekend to do that.  Will let you know how it goes.

Thanks! 

Chet,
Thanks.  I had put a new replacement gas cap on, since my original one leaked a bit.  I'll put the old gas cap back on the gas tank and try that.
John

The Original Kingston Vacume Fuel Pump has worrked pretty well on my 29 Plymouth for over 30 years.  However, this weekend the tank overflowed, and I believe fuel was being drawn into the oil pump.  I have aways wondered what type of check valve was used to prevent this from happening.  Now I will have to take the tank apart and find out.

If anyone has any experience with this problem, I would appreciate some advice.

John

Years ago I put Ford Model A handles in mine - that was all I could afford at 17.  They look fine and fit perfectly.  Original type repoductions would be great, but pricey.  I still have some of the original handles - but they are unserviceable.  Will look for the original windshield crank.  The only original inside handle I am still using is actually a rear window knob that I moved to the front windshield.

Chet, I do not think the floor rubber was glued down in front.  I used to have an original and it had a brown insulation pad glued to the back.  It did not fit snug around the gear/hand brake or pedals.  Separate rubber pieces with steel reinforcements covered those parts.  I wish I kept them but they were in such bad shape they were thrown out years ago.  The separate pieces can be purchased from Steel, but they are pricey.

Regarding the rear main seal - I agree - if it's not leaking much, leave it alone.  I have replaced the "new" type split steel/neoprene rear seal on my 29U without removing the engine.  I removed the Xsmsn and flywheel, then dropped the pan and removed the rear main bearing cap.  Then loosen the center and front bearing cap a little so the crank will drop just enough so you can remove and replace the top half of the rear main seal. Trick is to install both halves before the main cap is replaced.  I also recommend cleaing the surfaces good and putting some Permatex 300 or Aviation gasket seal between the seal and the block/cap.

If you have the original type rope seal, I do not have experience replacing those, but I am told they too can be done without removing the engine.

I would not install the new split type on 28Q, 29U or 30U unless the opening has been enlarged to fit by a machince shop (requires engine removal)- otherwise it will leak.