Hi Frank and SDGlenn.  Yeah, Frank, I wish you were here to help, too.  Stuff always seems to go more than twice as fast with 2 people working on it.  And yes, Glenn, dowels were my thought too.  I'm going to make new pieces without the mortise and tenon and use dowels and glue to pin everything back together.  At least that's the plan.  Making the pieces to get a nice tight dry fit will be the challenge.  I want to get the wood work repair done, hopefully during the next month, so I can get on with some new and different (like axels, suspension, seals, and brakes).  I'm thinking about dropping both front and rear axels and springs off the frame to work on them.  What do you guys think?  That should make it easier to finish cleaning up the frame and painting it too. 

My '29 engine is back home...no work done to it.  I'll start on it myself with help from some friends.  I think we will be able to figure out what needs to be done.  I am hoping that everything is good.  It was last run in 1957.  But it been kept lubricated so it turns over freely.  Still, I have my fingers crossed.

Well, the top wood repair continues.  Pretty much have the top bows done but have to do some work on the slats probably replacing some.  The top right rear corner (behind the passenger seat) is pretty much gone.  There are 5 separate pieces involved and 3 of those cannot be removed. Two of the 5 pieces will need to be completely remanufactured; the other 3 will need serious rebuilding.  So, repair and replacement will be challenging; I've been studying the parts and I think I have a preliminary idea how I will make an attempt at repair.  But it won't happen real quick...it will take time...if it all works.  We'll see.  Following are a few pics for your viewing pleasure!  Aren't you glad this isn't yours!  Kim

Yes, Gary.  This is what I am hearing and reading...stick with the babbitts.  I was nervous about doing something irreversible to the engine.  At this point I don't know if it even needs to be re-babbitted.  So I need to check that out first.  I picked up the engine this afternoon and it is tucked away in the shop.  Thanks for the reply.  Kim

Hi Rich.  I talked to the rebuilder today; I'm going to pick the engine up this afternoon and bring it home.  I can do the preliminary disassembly rather than pay for that.  And there are several "old timers" around my area that have offered to help me assess the engine, babbitts, block, head, valves, etc.  I will be more comfortable with the "go slow and let's check it out" approach.  Besides, I still like to learn from others with experience.  So, that is the new plan...open it up, check the condition of everything, and then decide what I need to do (and not do).  Thanks for the info in your post.  I will continue to post my progress with my engine.  Kim

I've taken my '29 engine (original) to a rebuilder.  I believe it to be in good condition (it still turns over easily), has about 60K miles on it, but hasn't been run since the 50's.  I was thinking about installing inserts until I read the two threads on this forum about babbitt vs. inserts.  Now I'm leaning towards staying with the babbitt.  And, maybe the babbitt bearings in it don't need replacement.  Anyhow, I'm looking for guidance from all of you with experience (or opinion) regarding rebuilding these early engines.  I just plan to drive mine occasionally just for the enjoyment; I'm not trying to build a show car or a daily driver.  Let me know what you think.  Thanks.  Kim

Thanks Frank.  I will be getting into the "cutting and shaping" real soon.  The top rear corner behind the passenger seat has some dry rot that I was just removing an hour ago.  It will be a challenging fix as the right rear corner sheet metal curves over the wood framing making it difficult to work.  Fortunately for me, my repair work will be hidden by the head liner and the fabric covering the rear corner and side.  I'll post some pics.  Fun, fun!!  

last picture...

two more pictures....

more pictures....

Well, after a break, I got back to working on the '29 coupe repairing and "restoring" the wood pieces of the top framing.  As I posted here previously, I used the product Poly-All, a 2-part polyurethane liquid that when mixed quickly sets up to a hard plastic.  I like working with it because as a liquid it can be poured into small spaces or voids to fill them completely.  After it sets (a matter of only minutes), the excess can be easily filed flush then sanded.  Previously, for large open holes, I mixed the Poly with sawdust to fill large open holes.  This time I was dealing with cracks and voids, some that went through the wood from top to bottom.  I wanted to fill these completely but was afraid the Poly-sawdust mixture would not flow into deep crevices and voids.  So, I just used the liquid with tape "dams" to keep the Poly liquid where I wanted it.  I tried different techniques using aluminum foil, tape and foil, and just tape and found the tape alone worked best for me.  One just has to make sure that all places where the liquid might escape from the "damed" area are completely sealed so the liquid doesn't run out.  One trick I learned here was that if a spot was particularly difficult to seal perfectly with tape and the liquid would run out, I would let the Poly mix get to the point of being viscous (like thick syrup), then pour it in where it would still fill but also "set" quickly.  I have selected a set of 7 pictures to show the process start to finish so I will have to do several posts in a row; sorry, but I have reduced the size of the pictures as much as my photo tool program will allow.  The restoration work isn't perfect but the wood is in much better condition now to receive a new top someday.  Now I've begun to work on the dry rot in top wood at rear corner on the passenger's side.  I will post my progress, but this project will be more difficult (I think I posted some pictures previously on this thread.)  Here's a list of the attached pictures (and for those in the following posts).

1)  voids in top wood above driver's door
2)  side view of taped void
3)  top view of toped void
4)  filling void
5)  filled void with solidified Poly
6)  bottom view showing how liquid Poly completely filled the void through the wood
7)  wood beam sanded

Hi Tinkeys and everyone.  Well, I've been taking a break, sort of.  Besides taking a vacation, doing lots of home/yard maintenance, and trying to get out and drive my 1935 Plymouth some, I tried to follow your lead, Tinkeys, and work on 2 car projects at once.  I don't think I will be as successful as you, however.  I've owned a 1967 Mustang convertible 4-speed since it was new.  I last drove it in 1982 and for many of the ensuing years it was not in the kind of storage I would have chosen, just the best I could do at the time.  Last Oct. I met a young mechanic that is real good at his craft and who wanted to assist me with restoration/modification of my Mustang.  The short story is that once I got into it I decided it wasn't just going to be a "clean up" job and put it on the road.  Now it is completely "deconstructed" and should go to the media blasting this week.  The engine has been completely rebuilt and the rest will follow.  I am keeping it a "matching numbers" car but I am modifying it for drivability including suspension improvements and a T-5 transmission.  I want to drive the thing, not just haul it around and show it!  My wife is pretty excited about it too and keeps showing me paint colors she likes!  So, I am trying to split my time (unevenly) between the '29 and the '67 at present.  Progress on the '29 has slowed but now that the sun is out more I'm getting more ambitious and will pick up the pace on the '29.  I have been spending lots of time on the web looking for a good used compressor to hook up to my sand blasting cabinet 'cause I've got lots of stuff now for both cars that needs it.  And I'm tentatively making plans to drive my unrestored original* 1935 Plymouth Deluxe Sedan to the National Plymouth Meet in Tucson AZ at the end of April (*except for its T-5 transmission).  That's a trip of about 1000 mi one-way on side roads, not freeways.  I've got to think about that some more!  Anyhow, it was good to hear from you and yes, I'm still here plugging away on my projects.  Although I haven't posted much for a while, I do check into the Forum almost daily.  Take care buddy, and happy trails in your old rides.  Kim

You're hired...!!!

Gary.  Sorry to hear about this....what a bummer.   FrankP was right about using baking soda in the water to neutralize any acid residue.  If I had to do this, I would buy a big box of Arm & Hammer and mix baking soda with water in a Hudson pump sprayer (garden type) and spray down all surfaces repeatedly.  When there is no more fizzing, I would repeat the wash down with clean water.  I am not sure how to address the under-dash wiring and instruments and upholstry; maybe just wipe down with a rag dipped in a mix of baking soda and water.  Sounds like a big chore...if I was nearby i would come help.  Good luck & I hope you will post your final solution. 

Very nice work on both.  Thanks for the pics.  Kim