I will probably have the flywheel resurfaced but it looks a lot better than the pressure plate. Not many automotive machine shops have a lathe that can swing a 13.5" flywheel so I will have to find a regular shop to cut down the spacer for the ring gear. The exact size it needs to be will be stamped on the ring so that's on hold until it gets here.

Kentucky Clutch ask me to send the throw out bearing with the clutch so until it gets back I won't know if they did anything to it or not. It looked and felt good except for two little worn spots where the fork pushes on it. I don't think that will affect anything. I'll post some pictures when I get all the parts back.

Its been anything but quiet at our house but my computer was in the shop and I don't do much on my phone so I haven't posted anything. The 29 touring still isn't in our name but since the owner is a friend I am working on it anyway. The flywheel ring gear is in really bad shape and has even been turned over and ran that way for who knows how long. It wasn't far from its last start. I pulled it out and when I did I discovered the pressure plate had some pretty bad cracks and one finger was running on the side of the throwout bearing instead of the face. The starter made a coffee grinder sound like a angel playing a harp. The flywheel has a spacer under the ring gear, it seems someone has used a ring that is no longer available and made the spacer to make it fit. I have one that should work ordered from Al's ring gears but I will have to find someone with a large lathe to take about .013 off the spacer which is still on the flywheel.

I shipped the clutch to Kentucky Clutch Monday evening and they called me Friday for payment saying they had received it that morning and were ready to ship it back! If it works right that is amazing service! I took the starter to Classic Generator in Midlothian Texas and he tore it down while I was there. It too was in really bad shape. He is a little behind but said he would have it in a couple of weeks.

I pulled the top off the transmission and to my surprise it looks really good. I made a new gasket for it, washed it out with some mineral spirits and will fill it with some quality 80-90 weight Lucas gear oil when I get it back in.

With all the things wrong and worn out the old girl still started every time. What a amazing testament it is to the quality of these old cars.

My goal is to get it all back and running by our local parade June 20th. If everything goes ok I should make it.

Quote from: Russ T. Fender on April 09, 2022, 07:09:52 PMThat is a great idea.  I am looking for the windshield riser mechanism for my 30-U coupe.  They are as scarce as hens teeth but you never know.  Condition is not that important as the gears are available from the Filling Station.  What I need most is the crank handle mechanism but the whole set up would be great.  Chevy used a splined shaft set up for the crank handle and Plymouth used the square shaft but otherwise they are the same.

Are you ok with the Chevy unit or only the Plymouth flavor? Since its small if I am lucky and find one I'll get it. I may get phone #'s from you and anyone else wanting stuff and I'll call from there and make sure I am getting the right part and if the price is ok.

We plan to go to the Pate Swap Meet later this month. Its huge and we are not able to walk the whole thing but will cover part of it anyway. I was thinking that if I had a list of 28-29 parts people needed we might stumble on to something. I couldn't buy and ship a bunch of stuff but maybe I could connect someone to a vendor and they could work out the details.

Quote from: chetbrz on April 03, 2022, 09:50:31 AM

Quote from: Touring29 on April 02, 2022, 10:32:57 PMThe serial # is U26664 The casting # is 301029-2 with 22529 above it and a H below it. It has no water or fuel pump. I may be wrong but I think it may be the original motor.
After it sat for a couple of hours I checked it again and it shows 1/2 way between the add and full marks with 4 quarts.  I can't believe it took awhile to drain down since the filler is not far from the pan. I think I'll call that the new full and hope it leaks less. Thanks everyone

b
Sorry I thought I had a list of engine serial numbers but I can't find it. Anyway I would think that your engine is original to your car and manufacture in 1929.  You are only 5,000 different than my engine number and my car was built in the March 1929 time frame.  I think it's a safe bet that it is a 175.4 CID.  Your car may have rolled of the assembly line roughly around that same time.

I am amazed at how well it runs for a engine over 90 years old. It starts easy and never smokes even a little bit. The brake and clutch pedals are worn smooth in places so its not a low mileage garage queen. One of these days I'll get a borescope and see if I can see a oversize stamp on the pistons.

Quote from: Russ T. Fender on April 03, 2022, 12:41:36 PMI searched for them for years to no avail.  I used the best of the ones I had and found a few at Hershey over time. They are out there but finding 30 of them will be a challenge. I will be picking up a spare rear end and transmission over the next few weeks but don't know if the universal joints are there.  If they are you are welcome to whatever washers are there.  I'll let you know one way or another after I pick the up.

I got my discs from Tom at Then & Now and he said he looked into making the washers a few years ago but the tooling would be around $1000 so he didn't. He did say regular washers can be used as long as all the edges are smooth. My plan is to use the ones I have in the front since its harder to get to than the back then use grade 8 washers for the rest. I noticed that the most wear seemed to be between the spiders and the first disc so I am thinking about using fender washers there. I need so many because the rear was missing almost all of them the front was missing a few and since the discs Tom makes are 1/4 instead of 5/16 I will have to use 6 instead of the original 5.

If you come up with some or I find any I will switch them out. Pate Swap meet is later this month and I am going to look there. Thanks

I need 30 waffle washers to put them back in original form. Does anyone have any they want to sell?

The serial # is U26664 The casting # is 301029-2 with 22529 above it and a H below it. It has no water or fuel pump. I may be wrong but I think it may be the original motor.
After it sat for a couple of hours I checked it again and it shows 1/2 way between the add and full marks with 4 quarts.  I can't believe it took awhile to drain down since the filler is not far from the pan. I think I'll call that the new full and hope it leaks less. Thanks everyone

Quote from: Articifer Tom on April 02, 2022, 02:28:24 PMMy BOI says 6 quarts (5.66L ) for 196ci 4cly engine . I'll my stick if you need .

I looked on the same website and it does indeed call for 6 quarts on a 30 model. Are they that different? 

This is where I got 4 quarts https://www.ply33.com/Models/U/specs
Ours is the 175.4 cid engine which seems to be a 1 year only engine although I think the later ones were similar.
6 quarts is about what it had in it and it was on the full mark but the dipstick has been altered, maybe because it broke or maybe some other reason who knows.

It also leaks some and I was hoping that was caused by it being over full. Now I don't know what to do. 

I drained the oil and as I suspected no one in our little town had a copper gasket that size but I did find a plastic one that fits. The plug had 4 old copper gaskets on it and was still leaking. When I got them pried of I found they had somewhat rounded the corners off and the plug had a little sharp high spot at every corner. I filed these off and it seems to be holding.

Now for a question. The dipstick was exactly on the full mark when I drained it and it had around 6 quarts in it. I put 4 quarts back in and it barely touches the dipstick. The dipstick looks to have been spliced and welded at some point so I don't trust it. Are the specs shown on ply33.com correct? It shows 4 quarts which would make it about 2" lower than the full mark on the stick.

The nearest Advance Auto is 30 miles but when we were kids this was a dry county and we would go there just to try to find a adult that would buy us some beer We have a Napa O'Rileys and a Parts Plus. They are all small stores but can get most stuff the next day.

I can take it to the parts store and match it up, my concern is if the little stores we have in our little town will have one. We have to order a lot of things that are in stock in big city stores. I just thought that someone might know the size so I could have one and have it on hand.

The drain plug on the 29 is dripping and its plenty tight. I need to change the oil anyway so does anyone know where to get a copper gasket that size or even what size it is. I don't want to drain the oil and have to search for a gasket.

There  probably are better ways to do it and but it did work and the front doors are no longer dragging on the door sills and latch securely. The back doors will have to wait a while. Heck I haven't even figured out how to get the front seat bottom out yet and it has to come out to access the back door hinges.  I think the owner said she had some touch up paint. If so I will paint them and the screws. If she doesn't have any I'll have to get some mixed and hope the parts store can get a close match.

The drivers door fits well everywhere but the bottom rear corner will not go in flush.  I think its bent a little from being slammed with it dragging on the sill all these years and maybe even sitting with the bottom pushed out from hanging on the sill and the top latched. I tried to straighten it with some brute force but chickened out. When 3 out of 4 corners fit I don't think any amount of shimming will improve the fourth.