I was pretty surprised I was able to make it look kind of original. I started by cutting some thin sheet metal pieces in a shape that somewhat looked like a lever. Then I just welded them together and added weld where it need some and ground off everything that didn't look like the factory lever. Eventually the inner lever in it came out. It welded easily to the disc after I ground the broken one off. After I took that picture I smoothed it up some more then got out our Montgomery Ward engraver we have had since the 70's (still in its cardboard box btw) and roughed up the sides to look like it was knurled. I painted them both flat black because I don't know what color they are supposed to be and neither does anyone else in Texas, besides that's what I had handy.

It took me all afternoon but I think it came out ok. I used some sheet metal and a lot of mig wire but I think it looks pretty good for a lever that won't do anything. I don't have a clum switch to hook it to but its a start. I filled the little voids and will sand and paint it and the other one.

Quote from: chetbrz on July 23, 2023, 09:10:56 AMThe Stewart Warner vacuum pump is designed for intake manifold pressure and shouldn't be connected to the oil pump. If not using the Kingston pump the oil pump vacuum port should be plugged.  Any vacuum line larger than 1/8" will cause oil pressure to drop. I would explain more but typing with one fat finger on an iPhone. 

That's what I need to know. The vacuum port on the pump is already capped so I'll just leave it that way and go to the intake. I'm going to get it back running with the electric then switch to the vacuum fuel pump when I get everything back together.

 I know this is a old thread but I have to correct myself. I now realize the original fuel pump uses vacuum that is generated by the oil pump. I never thought about a oil pump producing anything but pressure. Our car has a Stewart Warner fuel pump so its been replaced at some time. I wonder if the vacuum signal from the oil pump would run it. If I am not mistaken the SW pumps were plumed to manifold vacuum. I am also a little skeptical  of having the suction side of the oil pump plumed so that if the tank malfunctioned it could fill the crankcase with gas.

I am still working on the motor or to be more exact cleaning and painting.

Quote from: 29UJohn on May 20, 2023, 07:38:00 PMI am downsizing and getting ready to move and have a few parts looking for a new home, most for 29U:  Refurbished camshaft with fiber gear installed; tail light stem (believe it's for a 30 or 31 though), windshield riser handle and escutcheon (appears to be from a delux model, not sure though), 31 clutch pressure plate and disk, fully refurbished (was going to install on my 29, but my tranny has a weld repair that interfered with this newer style pressure plate), brake master cylinder (needs refurbishment); emergency brake band assembly, oil filler tube and cap, intake manifold (has braze repair), crankshaft pulley ( has braze repair), black spare tire cover 20 inch, tan cloth spare tire cover NOS for 19 inch tire (from Jay Fisher),  DRT-08 Carb (Needs work), DRJH-08 (similar to 28Q), four original hubcaps (beat up but serviceable), one set of gas tank straps, right front door glass channel (new), original dash (has holes from where a radio and starter button were installed), Refurbished AC G-14 spark plugs (Auth alternate from G-12 original), Klaxon 12C horn (works but is dinged up a lot), exhaust manifold, valve cover, set of piston rods, freeze plugs (new).

Will pull off anything that sells to keep this updated. Will pull it down after. 12 months regardless.  Can send a picture of anything you are interested in

John
JohnRFain@gmail.com

I could use the master cylinder or better yet just the fitting in the top the line from the reservoir screws to. Mine has a nick and it seeps a little no matter what I try. I am also interested in the spark plugs and the horn if its possible to make it look decent. If the connecting rods are for a 29.  I would be interested in them too just to have if my plan to fix ours doesn't work.
Walter      txsailor57@gmail.com      940-531-2269

Quote from: Articifer Tom on June 23, 2023, 11:53:03 AMI believe CRB-481 bolts with CRN-453 nuts match .Cross also to 58-68 Ford (352)+(390)engine bolts . Finding and price is another story .

The bolts for a FE Ford might be the same but I worked at a Ford dealership back in the 70's and none of the engines had keyed rod bolts. The keys aren't really needed if the rods are torqued right. The industry stopped doing that many decades ago. Never the less I'll key these when I put them back just to keep it as original as I can. After all they have holes in them so why not?

Quote from: chetbrz on June 22, 2023, 08:01:56 PM

Quote from: Touring29 on June 22, 2023, 05:47:50 PM

Quote from: chetbrz on June 22, 2023, 06:39:16 AMEmail your address. chetbrz@aol.com

Did my email go through?

I checked my spam folder and there you were. I no longer have PayPal.  I use Venmo or a check.  No big deal it's just postage. 

I haven't used Venmo but I will gladly drop you a check in the mail. I'm good for it just ask rustyfender! (Val Soupios) I wonder where your rebuilder got new bolts? Just curious. I have rebuilt hundreds of more modern engines and have sometimes replaced the bolts and sometimes used them with 100,000+ miles. Either way I have never had one fail. I did have the little 5/16 bolts on a s/b ford stretch and loose their tension allowing some bearings to spin but we were revving it way past its design limits.

When I was a kid I had a 49 Chevy pickup. Those had babbitt bearings. It had a rod knock the whole time I had it. I sold it to a guy who was going to put a s/b Chevy in it. He decided to blow it up first. He ran that poor thing wide open in low gear for quite some time and never did get it to quit!

Quote from: chetbrz on June 22, 2023, 06:39:16 AMEmail your address. chetbrz@aol.com

Did my email go through?

Quote from: chetbrz on June 21, 2023, 07:37:50 PMThese bolts are from my 29u engine.  The shop that rebuilt the engine didn't want to reuse the original bolts.  They used new ones.   If you need them you can have them for postage. 

Sure! I trust them better than the bolts I have. I doubt yours have been ran loose!  Do you have my address?

Quote from: chetbrz on June 21, 2023, 03:25:31 PMIs this what you are looking for.  I have a complete engine set of 8.

see below:

You cannot view this attachment.

See my above post. If they are the same shoot me a price. Thanks

The bolt measures 2.680 long and across the flats on the head is about .440. I think these were keyed at the factory but the bozo that can't tell a 1 from a 2 or a 3 from a 4 on a rod got lazy and used safety wire. He also just used silicone for a pan gasket, rounded a head off on a wrist pin bolt and must have been stronger than smart because the head studs were so tight that I spent hours with a propane torch and penetrating oil to get the nuts to break. I limited myself to a 12" boxed end wrench so I wouldn't twist one off.

Thanks in advance if you can come up with a bolt or two. For now I am robbing parts off the spare motor. I am on about plan z but maybe it will work. I think I said earlier that the whole problem was caused by some idiot switching the #3&4 rod caps. Of course they wouldn't fit and I'm sure the crank locked up when he torqued them. His solution was to leave them finger tight and wire the nuts.

I can't believe it ran as long as it did but from the carbon and sludge it was many miles ago. The wire on #3 broke and the nuts backed off even further. The rod got enough slack to hit the piston skirt. Not only that he broke a couple of rings when he put the pistons in.

I haven't had any luck finding anyone to rebabbit the rods in a timely manner so I switched the caps back and measured the bearings. They actually are about as round and have the same clearance as the other two. I found 1 .060 over piston but no rings to fit these old pistons. I ended up getting a whole set. The new pistons use a modern ring package with 3 rings instead of 4.

There are quite a few other little things the idiot screwed up like not drilling the oil hole in a couple of rods and rounding off the bolt head on one of the wrist pin bolts. I'm not pulling the motor so I hope everything on the mains is right. It did run pretty good and had good oil pressure so maybe I can patch it up to last as long as I do.

I at least will be able to get rid of that ugly John Deer paint!

I really don't think they are factory but I can't even guess what they are for. BTW I still need a rod or could even get by with a couple of good bolts.

Update! I noticed the #3 rod had a #4 on the cap. I checked #4 and sure enough it had a #3 on the cap. It was still safety wired. I cut the wire off and the nuts on it were finger tight too. I pulled it out and switched the caps and they fit as they should. I looked at the #2 rod and it had a 1 on it. The #1 had a 2 on it. At least they had the right caps and were torqued.

I think whoever put it together had been getting into the moonshine. When they found that it locked up when they torqued the last two rods they just left them loose and wired them! From the carbon on the pistons and sludge in the pan its been quite a few miles that way. A modern engine would have spun the bearings and scarred up the crank in a few minutes if done that way!

I'm not sure yet how I am going to go about fixing it but I'll come up with something.

Thanks for checking!