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Last post by racertb - March 11, 2022, 08:05:14 PM
When I had my discs done, there was a gentleman who made them and I think if you do a search you might be able to find it on this site. The material is like a thick conveyor belt material. A tractor supply type of store or someone who deals and antique tractors might have some options.
Last post by Touring29 - March 11, 2022, 07:13:03 PM
I decided to see if my plan to rebuild the hinges would work. The right front door also had a problem with the latch so I started with it. To get the hinges off you will have to remove the kick panel and door panel. There are 2 1/4 X 20 square nuts inside on each one. There are also two wood screws. The pin on the door side is stepped. The part that is staked to the strap is 1/4" and the hinge part is 5/16" so it will only come out one way. I sanded the staked portion off with a sanding disc and with a lot of wiggling and a little tapping with a punch it came out. I am having new pins made. They will be a little longer than factory and I can fit them as needed. I'll probably either Locktite them in or tack them where they were bradded.
The straps that make up the female part of the hinge fell apart when I removed them. They had had a 1/4" rivet holding them together. I cleaned up the surfaces I wanted to weld and bolted them together with the holes aligned. Then welded them together and added some material around the hinge hole. I then got the part level on my drill press and drilled/reamed the hole to .437 (7/16). I tapped a oilite bushing in the hole that's .437 od .312 id 1/2" long with a 1/16" flange. I bought 10 of them for about $20 including shipping from McMaster Carr. These will hold the door a little higher than original but they all seem low so maybe it will help. The flange could be filed down a little if necessary.
With the bushings and pins being longer than original I am pretty sure to put the door back on I will have to assemble the hinges and then install it all together.
Last post by Touring29 - March 10, 2022, 11:17:05 PM
I think it would be pretty easy and not too expensive to use a front driveshaft design from a 80's GM 4wd. Everything but a couple of 6" plates to bolt the flanges to would be available at any driveshaft shop. Like you I want to keep things as original as I can but that would be a option.
You may find that the vibration is still there at some point over 30mph because there's no way to balance the system... you may get lucky but that is what it is, luck. I seriously considered modernizing the system but decided to give it one more try with new discs. On my car the vibration kicks in a bit over 35mph and gets pretty noticeable around 40 mph with the new discs but since I rarely go over 35 I plan to stick with the discs for now. The one concern I have always had with the discs is what would happen if they let go. If the rear joint lets go the drive shaft could take out the hydraulic brake line and the emergency brake would be inoperable so you'd have no brakes.
Last post by Touring29 - March 10, 2022, 07:23:00 PM
The original material may not even be available anymore. As long as they take the vibration out and hold up to being drove occasionally I'll be happy. I got it put back together today with the discs that were in it a lot of washers and self locking nuts. It's a lot better but that's only a temporary fix.