I've never static timed before, but it doesn't sound complicated, however I have a few questions.

Are there visible timing marks on these cars that should be lined up or on the gears themself?  I don't plan on taking the timing gear cover off.

The Instruction Book mentions making sure #4 cylinder is TDC and everything else I see mentions #1 cylinder

Whichever one it is, how do you verify?  The way the pistons are offset from where the plug holes are, a tool or whatever won't exactly work to check.  Should the exhaust stroke air blowing out be used to find tdc?

Hopefully I'm not over thinking this too much,  just trying to verify how off the timing is.

Thanks for the replies, but see my update above to see if that changes anything.

Also, fuel feed is not an issue and carb is loaded with fuel, as it probably flooded last night.  This is because the car has an electric fuel pump and was not too concerned last night since I was only checking for spark.  However, this morning I disconnected the lead to the pump so I could continue checking for spark (see update above) without the fuel pump running when I have the key on.

You guys are a great deal of help and more knowledgeable than me, and I think it is timing with some points shorting out which could be what caused the initial problem.  I hope the above further narrows down the diagnosis.

I once had an old Ford Torino that started cutting in and out and found out the hard way that it was a loose negative side coil wire that was not properly connected/secured.  That major running issue was a simple electrical connection.

I hope this Plymouth issue is a simple issue to fix as well.  Before I did my major tune up, everything had run fine for many years.

Update.   I can open and close the points rapidly to assimilate the distributor turning like the car is running.  I am now getting spark consistently from the coil wire to a head bolt (easy to observe).

The issues seem to be I have to open the points REALLY wide (rapid manner described above) to get the spark to fire from the coil wire.  By wide I'm talking 1/8" wide.  But, I am getting spark so I'm assuming the coil is good.

The other thing I noticed with the points is that it also looks like the spring/bend (curved part) is sparking/shorting against the inside wall of the distributor housing.

I believe this is the issue and because I only get the consistent spark when opening the points really wide is because its pulling the spring/arm away from the inside wall.

I've got other things to do today, so will focus more on this later.  Anyone ever deal with something like this before?

I hope I'm on the right track here and am convinced this is a simple electrical issue.

Thoughts???

I'm wondering if the small wire going to the side of the distributor that attaches next to the condenser wire is not insulated correctly and grounding out affecting the points and causing the no spark condition?

How should that be attached so this isn't an issue?  Anyone ever deal with this?

Here are latest observations and symptoms:

Car turns over, distributor turns, etc.  Tried two sets of points and condensers.

First set, car turns over, but sounds like starter getting hung up every few revolutions.  Take off distributor cap, car turns over and no weird starter hang up issue.  Intermittent spark of coil wire jumping to head bolt when checking for spark.

Second set of points/condenser, no starter hang up sound every few revs, engine turns over fine, but no spark from coil wire.

I've tried setting both point sets at both .18 and .20 and it doesn't seem to matter.  At this point, not concerned about timing until I get consistent spark. 

Running out of ideas, but I'm thinking its got to be electrical and a hopefully simple fix.

Thoughts??  Going crazy here. 

Try a D16 Champion or a C87 AC Delco

Wow...I'll see what I can find out.  At one point yesterday while trying to start the car, it did start and ran smoothly for a few seconds and then died again almost like it was not getting any fuel.  Then every other attempt failed, so not sure if it became flooded (smelled like it) and then the battery was too weak.

Maybe the distributor is "floating" at higher speeds?  I usually drive between 38-40 mph and yesterday I was pushing 45mph...just guessing at this point.

I do have an '30 block in the garage that my father bought years ago, but I'm hoping I don't need to get into that for any parts.

I've charged up the battery and I'm going to try again this evening hopefully to see if I get any sign of life out of her.

I was heading home from a show this afternoon and she quit on me...felt a slight loss of power then some misfiring and then a few loud bangs/backfire, but not from all from the exhaust...seemed like up front (downtube?)  Pulled over, nothing visibly wrong under the hood, no leaks on the ground.  Pulled off the distributor cap, checked the points, etc.  Tried to restart several times, finally started and ran for a few seconds the shut off again.  Some more backfire.

My thought is the timing, but not sure at this point...not sure how that would just "go out" like that.  May be the carb, but don't know.  Got home late via flatbed and to tired to figure it out today.  I've got the battery charging since I drained it trying to start the car too many times.

Just one of those frustrating sitiuations.  Car has new plugs, points, condenser, cap. rotor, wires, etc. 

All:

Is there a way to check the point dwell on our 4 cylinders?  I'm sure I can hook up my old dwell meter that has a choice for 4 cyl, but what would a "good" range be for our motors?  I know there's no spec in the book, but I'm just curious.

I also have a vacuum gauge that I'll be using to try the previously discussed method mentioned by Old Man.

Thanks,

Ted

Can you show us which wire you're talking about?

Also, my '29 has 20" wood wheels.

Not a '29 Roadster

Thanks Old Man for the information...I will keep fine tuning and may experiment with a couple of things to see what's best for my motor.  At this time, she runs and drives fine (to my ears) and I will use the current set up as a benchmark that I can always go back to. 

Ted

Thanks for the replies...

Although the engine is not new, it probably has no more than 1000 miles on it since it was rebuilt in the'80's, but what you describe Old Man makes sense and is worth a try.  I was tuning by ear, like Chetbrz, and got the car running pretty well by that method.

I might try the point adjustment to .18 to see how that goes as well.  Also, are there timing marks on these motors for a timing light?  I have no idea...since it wasn't mentioned in the instruction book, I assumed there wasn't.

Old Man - should the vacuum technique start with the carb, then distributor, then carb again?  Or, distributor then carb?

I think with the tuning by ear and feel, I can get it pretty good, but I'd like to experiment.

Do any of you use a piston travel gauge, or anything else, to get the correct TDC of the #4 cylinder when adjusting the timing as indicated in the Plymouth Instruction Book?

I recently put on new wires, changed the spark plugs (back to Champion D16), installed new points, cap, rotor and condenser on the car.  After gapping the plugs correctly (.27) and setting the points (.20), the timing seemed way off, as the motor was idling slow and barely running. It had been running rougher lately anyway.

As it was running, I loosened the distributor and turned it counterclockwise a little bit to advance the timing.  The motor slowly smoothed out and sounded much better.  I took the car for a ride and it drove well.

I will probably do a little more "fine tuning", but do any of you time/tune the car by "ear" as I did or what is your method?

Thanks...