Can you provide the felt warehouse name, address, web-site?

I have one engine that had a cork gasket.  Then and Now Automotive has replacement cork, but I chose to try a rope seal.

I have another engine that has been modifed to use the Dodge/Plymouth slit steel/Nitrile seal.

I have a pully on my engine that was brazed and I have driven it over 9000 miles with no problems.

The following have old parts engines and may have a pully for you:

BEN OSTRANDER
SITE 11 BOX 52 RR 1
DE WINTON AB  T0L 0X0
CANADA 

Ray Ganser
Box 357
Provost, Alberta
Canada  T0B  3S0

Otherwise, there is a machine shop in my town that could make one, not sure what the price would be though.

Thanks guys!

Saw this 6 volt fuel pump om ebay.  Can this be used on our 28-31 Plymouths (if the vac-fuel pump does not work)?

Item number: 280435118672

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280435118672&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AWNARL%3AUS%3A1123

There is no seal for the front of the xsmsn.

Don Sommers makes them for $175 each out of stainless.

I bought a stainless radiator cap from him - very good.

John

I have never removed the bell housing.  I remove the transmission and flywheel, then pull the engine, leaving the bell housing in place.

You can pull the transmission without removing the engine.  In fact, the transmission must be removed before the engine can come out, unless, as you mention, you removed the entire assembly by un-bolting the bell housing - but that is not otherwise necessary.

The throught bearing slides along the nose cone.  I have seem one where the nose cone busted when the throwout bearing stuck to it.  You may be able to weld the nose cone back on - depending where it broke, since hte throwout bearing slides on it.  But, it might be better to replace the transmission.

While you are at it, may as well remove the clutch and flywheel and have them inspected and repaired, as necessary.

Thanks!  I will re-attach the motor mount the correct way.  Tom Hannaford revulcanized mine also and did a great job.  It is one of his specialties. 

I know the brake and oil lines are copper, but aren't the gas lines steel?

I'd go with Classic and Exotic.  They are more expensive, but they actualy make them new and they are right. 

You never know what you will get from Andy, and customer service is not good either.  I ordered one hose from him, to be sure it was right, then ordered the other two - and the fitting was wrong.  I called him about it and he acknowledged they were not right but said it was the best he could do.

I replaced mine.  I got the outer seals from Tom Hannaford at Then and Now Automotive (Antique Auto Cellar).  They were $38 each.  However, the stamping for the six holes was slightly off center, so I had to file them some to elongate so it would line up properly.  It you buy them from Tom, check them out closely.

There is a fellow that advertizes in the Plymouth Bulletin who makes the outer seals - Larry Chegwidden, Portland, OR.  His are $65 each and come with the gasket and instructions.  Call after 8PM Pacific time:  503-253-8941   

How should the front motor mount be secured between the engine and the frame?  My 29U's is attached with just two long bolts.  However, I saw one 29 with four small bolts, two to attach the mount to the engine, and two bolts with nuts to secure the mount to the frame.  This seems like a better way to mount it.
John
29U 4 dr Sedan

Thanks guys - this helps a lot!

Now to get one fabricated ...

The horn mounting bracket broke off my 29U's engine head. I want to have a new one made.  I am not sure the one I had was original.  Can someone send me a closeup picture of a 29U engine that shows the horn bracket?

Should the horn be above the top of the cylinder head and off to the side?