Sounds like I might need to do some re-wiring for the horn...when I looked at mine yesterday, the horn wire that comes down through the steering column and out through the center of the clum switch goes straight into a braided harness along with some other wires.  There is no connection to the clum switch.

The braided harness goes over to the driver's side frame and up the side into the firewall.  Only one wire comes out of the harness about half way and that wire goes to the stoplight switch.  I'm going to do some more wire tracing, but this is what I found so far.

This braided harness is not the same one that is "hot" on one side of the horn; that is another harness that also goes through the firewall and (I assume) goes to the ammeter and then battery...

Any thoughts on the above? 

That's a good start, but in regard to the horn wiring, this is from another post of the AACA site from DodgeKCL that reads (in part):

The horn has only one wire and it comes down the column and out and over to the horn. There is no horn relay. The horn is 'hot wired' and the horn button simply grounds the column wire at the horn when the horn button is pressed and the horn operates.

This is basically how mine is currently rigged up.  One wire on one terminal goes directly to a "hot" source (ammeter/battery) and the other up to the aftermarket switch under the dash (I'm assuming the horn button on the steering wheel doesn't work, but I want to check for myself).

So, does the horn button wire go directly through the column and to the horn (as noted above) or does it/is it supposed to somehow go through the Clum switch???

All:

Trying to get my horn to work and verify all connections, but first want to make sure I understand the Clum switch connections in relation to the horn.  From a post on the AACA board by Keiser31 a while back, here's what he had regarding the connections:


Viewed from the driver's seat in left hand drive car. The numbers on the tabs are from left to right 5, 6, 4, 2, 3, 1.

The 1st tab (#5) holds a wire to the tail lamp.
The 2nd tab (#6) holds a wire to each head lamp.
The 3rd tab (#4) holds a wire to each head lamp.
The 4th tab (#2) holds a wire to the horn.
The 5th tab (#3) holds a wire to each cowl lamp.
The 6th tab (#1) holds a wire to the horn, a wire to the ammeter and a wire to the signal lamp switch.


I specifically want to know about the horn wire connections (all) because I think the horn on my car is not hooked up correctly in the first place.  In addtion, I understand that the '29 and '30 use a Clum model 8821 vs. the 30-U 9150...does that change anything with the information above?

I believe the horn is the original Klaxon 12c, but there are no markings on it.  On the two terminals inside the horn, one wire is hot and goes to the ammeter and then battery (I believe) and the other goes to a switch under the dash (I am assuming the original horn button does not work, but I would like to find out when I know about all the connections).

The horn is mounted on a head bolt on the back on the cylinder head...not sure if it's grounded there or at the under dash switch.

Again, I just want to try to wire up the horn as it originally was and get my connections straight.  Any help is greatly appreciated!

Ted

Thanks Doug!

It looks like I may have read the parts manual wrong, but I want to go back and see.  It sounds like the red head didn't come out until '32.  Can anyone else confirm or deny this?

Doug - do you still have those hangars/clips?  If so, could you take a close up photo of them?

Thanks!

All:

For what I've seen, it looks the most common way (correct way?) that the front license plates are mounted is on the headlight bar.  I assume that any other way might be incorrect or at the owner's discretion.

Can anyone confirm this?  Also, what type of "hangers", hooks or whatever are used to mount to the headlight bar?  What have you used or prefer to do this?

Thanks!

No, I'm not talking about women ( ), but who can give me information on the "Red Head" high compression head for our Plymouths?  I've seen and heard very little about this and this "option" was supposedly standard on the roadsters...

Has anybody seen one? Had one?  Is the head painted red as opposed to the silver dome?

Just curious to know if this really existed...

All:

Is there a good supplier for radiator hoses for our cars? I was looking at some for the Model A's that were black with a red stripe.  There were some kits on eBay with the clamps included...more concerned about the fit than the color.

Thanks...

Try Universal Tire Company in Hershey, PA.  That's where I got my Lester tires, tubes, flaps, etc...very happy with them.

Well, I think she might be fixed for now...really didn't do much of anyting except pour a gallon of distilled water into the radiator.  It may have been too low and that(according to the owner's manual) can cause over heating.  Or, something may have corrected itself...took it on a 5 mile ride last week to be safe and no overheating.  This was after idling for 25 minutes in the garage.  Prior to this, the car would over heat after the first couple of miles...

This morning, I took her out for approximately 20 miles with no issue.  Filled up on gas, put air in the tires and even went through (and sat for a few minutes in the Duncan Donuts drive thru!) without a problem.  Went do to my local Advance Auto Parts store and bought some Water Wetter that I haven't put in yet.  I've used it in the past and had good results.

Keeping my fingers crossed for now!

Do you know how long they've been on?  Have you tried by hand first?

Thanks Chet...that's what I want to do...start first with the radiator making sure it has no "issues" before moving on to anything else.

Thanks for all the feedback...I'm going to start with checking out the radiator.  When it's hot, it's steaming out the top.  I use 50/50 mixture of coolant and distilled water.  There are parts of the radiator that are cool to the touch when this is happening, so I'\m going to assume there is a circulation problem in the radiator (?)  If flushing isn't successful, I'll probably have it removed and checked out locally.

Not sure how soon I can get to it, but will update when I do...thanks again.

I think I'd like to try the back flush part first...just the radiator and circumvent the engine and then see what happens.  It may be a simple blockage or something more severe.  If this doesn't work, then I can take the radiator out and have it properly rodded and cleaned.

I was just wondering if anyone had done this (back flush) before and if there were any tips on how to do it.  I know the general idea, but was looking for experience.