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Looks Like I Need a Wheel Cylinder

Started by racertb, July 05, 2016, 11:16:00 AM

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racertb

I've had an intermittent leak in the left rear wheel cylinder and have "repaired" it twice in the past with the kits.  After adjusting and bleeding the brakes the other day (pedal still firm), the small leak has come back, drip(s) on floor beside wheel.

So, should I go with Andy Bernbaum for new cylinders or someone else who is reasonable?  There is a recurring set of 4 on eBay that are $225, no tax of shipping.

Asking for feedback...thanks!

frankp

Back in late '60's I bought 4 new cylinders from Andy.  They did not fit correctly.  The rubber boots rubbed on the brake drum.  I was able to return without  problem.  I later had everything sleeved with stainless.  Pricey, but worth it.  They included all new pistons, rubber parts.  Same for the master cylinder.  They had to make the large copper washer.

If your cylinders are past the honing stage, I recommend sleeving.   frank
frank p

Articifer Tom

Yes , be careful most new cylinders are step type . They would have to be changed in pairs and will use a little more fluid ,hence may lower pedal .  You talk about a firm pedal is it braking good . Found you'll get hard pedal as hoses collapse and prevent fluid return . I say sleeve also  Hagens Hwy  Auto does great work .

Rusty

I had all of mine sleeved in stainless.  It is pricey but never had issues.  My wheel cylinders were heavily pitted and the master was worse,  I used Minnesota brake warehouse .  I have sent many many stuff to them and have been happy. 

frankp

Rusty,  Thanks for the reminder, I used Brake & Equipment Warehouse, too.
frank p

racertb

How pricey is re-sleeving?  I called Then and Now Auto (Tom Hannaford) where I got my distributor base last year and was quoted a price something like $160-170 EACH for this.

Since I want to work on the car this weekend, I DID go ahead and order the new/step bore wheel cylinders from Bernbaum's for $46/each.  He is also the same vendor as the one on eBay selling a set of four for $225 shipped.  I'll see how they fit, however, I don't want to replace all right now since the others are good and I don't want to mess with them.  I understand that I should probably do in pairs, so I'd be doing the rears (assuming they fit fine).

Articifer Tom

Hagen Hwy, cost me 55 ea. last year in stainless and include total rebuild . He went above and beyond by replacing the stripped bleeders with flesh edged old stock that matched my patina and a bad piston  . Just under 500 for 4 cylinders and all brake shoes relined with new proper soft linings ,bonded for longer life . Go Original . And shipped to Pa.

Rusty

Whenever my cylinders leaked, the brakes shoes just absorbed the brake fluid like a sponge.  I always needed to get new shoes.  A old timer at the local parts place tells how he used to grind off the old material and revivit on the new brake lining, back in the day.  Never wore a mask.  He has some great stories.

Old Man

I remember when I was searching for wheel cylinders I found out that early Plymouth unstepped wheel cylinders were the same as on some modern factory towmotors or lift trucks (depending on what you call them in your area). I'm sorry I did not write down the part number but I seem to remember the bore was 1 1/4" ? As I remember the cups springs and aluminum pistons were common as dirt. It was only the actual cylinder that was needed to "rebuild" the brake cylinder. I also seem to remember that the bolts that held the cylinder in place were also common. You only have to find the cylinder. Ignore all the other stuff. Just find the cylinder that will mount up to you backing plate. 

racertb

I am thinking about going with straight bore cylinders in 1 3/8, at least in the back for now and returning the step bore cylinders I just received.  These are readily available in part #18262.  I have my cylinders and three used I got off eBay a while back I could get re-sleeved if/when needed. 

Thoughts on the 1 3/8 in the back only for now?

Articifer Tom

#10
You may lose lots of pedal as you increase the volume of fluid needed for master to fill cylinders. That's why you have a 1-1/4" bore on your master  and it is four times the length of one wheel  cylinders stroke plus a little . 1-3/8 will give you great stopping ,but it may not be until second pump . Just a thought .
  The turn around on my rebuild was less 2 weeks with shipping . You can let one leak or take it off , cap it ,and use on three. While sending  four back if your spares are same .

racertb

I might consider doing that and waiting...no shows until the Fall anyway, but I like to get out and drive every 2-3 weeks. 

I've got three spare cylinder cores plus the one on the car (right rear) that is leaking. 

Also going to do the brakes linings...I have some NOS linings that have the holes in them that just need to be riveted on the shows.   They are asbestos, however.

racertb

So I had my cylinders re-sleeved and shoes religned by Brake and Equipment warehouse in MN.  In the process of doing the rears (cylinders and shoes) and will most likely do the fronts next weekend.  I'll also be tightening up the spokes on the left rear wheel.  Once done, will adjust brakes and bleed. 

The only thing I'm contemplating is whether or not to do the brake lines or leave well enough alone for now.

Thoughts?  Any local place like NAPA stock the break lines?  I saw some on eBay, but not sure about those.

Crazydave

Brake and equipment warehouse made new ones for me. I have seen them on Ebay as wheel.