I just installed a new rad from brass works.  I noticed that my liscense plate is mounted in the middle from the head light bar.  Would that make difference in cooling?  It is snowing currently and I am waiting on trying out the car.
rusty

I read (saw) on that there was study of using acetone and atf (50/50 ratio) for penetrating oil.  I have never been impressed with any of the ones that you can buy.  I tried PB blaster, liquid wrench, kroil, hot candle wax (burnt my fingers), none worked unless left to sit for a few days.

I just a model A that is going to be steet rodded and I am need to pull the door hinges and trying to acetone/atf combo.  It sperates very easy and needs to be shaken a lot and I noticed that it drips alot.
I am soaking the pins for about a week before trying on removing them.  SInce the car is held together by wood (dry rotten wood), I am going to avoid the torch.

Has anyone tried this combo?

I just got my rad back from brass rad works so I plan on driving the U this weekend.

rusty

What diameter was the orginial exhaust?  The smallist that I can find locally is  1.5 inches
rusty

Back in the day, one tail light that was 6 volt was ok, but not by todays standards.  I had installed a new brake light switch and that has gone bad.  I have noticed that many other these pressure switches go bad frequently.  This the update that I did.
I got a mechanical brake light switch from a hot rod shop.  They are used all the time on hot rods and since may rods have the brake pedal thru the floor, it would work here.  It costs around 22 dollars and two holes are drilled thru the floor and mounted by the brake pedal.  Once the pedal travels about 1/2 inch , the switch works.  Took about a hour, not orginal but works well.
The next update is a 6 volt led third brake light.  It is about 3/4 inch high and about 12 inches long.  It has two suction cups that mount to rear window.  The photo shows up better with it mounted in the middle of the window.  The rear seat is removed and the wires are very easliy hidden and then routed thru the drain holes under the seat to the underside of the car.  It is then connected to the brake light.  It could be also used a turn signal as it is two seperate lights.  I have it so that both sides work at once.  Very well hiddened with no "damage" to the car during mounting.   It cost about 60 bucks.

I am still waiting on my rad to replaced so this was a simple project.
rusty

The paint has been removed from my wheels when I got my car.  They seem tight and in good shape.  What would be a good protection to put on them??  Teak oil?  Pedge??  thanks   rusty

170522310204     ebay number.  A rough 29U but appears complete.
rusty

I have a stock two blade fan blade.  Does any know if there is a bolt on replacement 4 blade to help with cooling?
rusty

Were stone guards options?  I have seen a bunch on Model A's.
rusty

I was driving about 2 miles at which time a large gush of fuild came out the radiator.  The engine stopped and a large burst of white smoke (??steam) came out under the hood.  I removed the rad cap, I could not see any water.  I then hit the starter.  Engine spun very fast , like no compression.  I noticed puffs of white smoke coming out of the rad.  I am thinking I blew the head gasket.  I have not pulled anything apart yet.  Any other things I should look for during the autopsy.  I tows very nicely, twice in 3 weeks.
rusty

I used to go to ebay motors and type in 1929 plymouth and a lisit of stuff, about 80 items would pop up.  Now, it is 300 plus with most being car covers.  Is this just me?  Is it possible to got back to the way it was?
rusty

I planned on taking out the U for a 4th july parade.  I decided to test run her on the 3rd, at night.  It was running great but started to steam.  I waited for a bit and added water and off on my marry way.  It started to steam again and then I smelled a burn smell and she died. Now it was 10 at night and dark and here I am on a dirt road with the nearest farm miles away.  Good thing I had my universe  repair tool, cell phone.  I called the wife who came out with the truck and a tow rope.  The entire front end was coated with water and anitfreeze being pulled down a country dirt road.  It looks like I found it in a barn after 50 years by the amount of dirt.

I started the autopse and found the cause.  The fan was not spinning.  The generator was seized.  After removal of the generator and inspection.  The front bearing destroyed itself.  I had oiled it upon rebuilding of the engine.  I am now in need of one.  Does anyone have lead or know which other Mopar years would interchange?  The fan belt is all frayed.  I never heard a thing untill the end.
rusty
I see on ebay there is one for a 31, should work but that one has what looks like fins under the pully like a "normal" generator, mine does not?  I have other cars and they have cooling fins that spinns took cool stuff.  Normal??

Is there a gasket under the radiator cap?  Mine blows alot of water and I wonder if a gasket would force excesss water down the over fill tube and not on the windshield.
rusty

I have a "new" plywood floor when I got the car.  There is a square hole cut out for access to the battery.  A square piece of wood fits in this hole and is held in place by very new and not orginal metal plate screwed into the wood.  What was orginial?  Does any one have a photo?
thanks
rusty
I am now turning my attention to the inside of the car.

Did most 4 door sudans have a spare tire cover or just left out in the elements?  If so, what type of material?
rusty

I had a problem recently.  I installed new u joint disks but they were just a tad thicker than the old ones.  The nuts screwed on about 1/2 the width of the nut.  I thougth that was good enough.  I have about 100 miles so far on her untill yesterday.  I started to leave home for work and delevoped a severe shake once I let off out the clutch.  I got the car back into the garage and drove my 59 caddy instead.  I found out that the nuts had fallen off and the bolts worked them self out so the entire driveshaft at the rear axle had only one bolt holding it all together.  I have since bought longer bolts and new nuts and it drives great.  No damage, just to my ego.  Now I know why they were held on by codder pins.
rusty

Are the base of the outer door handles curved?  Mine are not orginial and have a flat mounting surface.  They do not fit on the door flat.  There is raised "belt" body line that is curved and it would seem that the mounting surface is curved to match.  Am I right or not?
rusty

About how much full should the rad be?  I filled mine to almost full and then it spit out the extra around the rad cap and plastered the windshield with antifreeze.  Should the boil over run out the "drain tube".  Should you run it for while (to get to operating temp) with the rad cap off??
rusty

I bought at auction a jack that was lisited as a "model a" jack.  It looks like it is a normal jack for the era.  Where is it to be stored?  Do you just place in on the floor under the front seats?   rusty
I did look at the spare tire, which is complete flat.  I do not think the jack is going to be much help at this time.

Since now my windshield now moves,  I have found out that my weather stripping is very dried and cracked and needs to be replaced.  Does anyone have a source?
rusty

How any one know of where a replacement windshield wiper could be found?  Also, I have a small switch (rotates open/close) on the botton of the dash on the driver side that allows vauccum up to the wiper.  The lines are all metal .  I can recall if they are steel/coppper or brass but look old.  Is this stock?  Was there  a hand crank on the wiper motor to allow hand operation.  Has any one taken their apart to look inside for repair issues.
rusty
Please note, I most like will not be driving in the rain but you never know.