There is listed a 29 plymouth on ebay currently and I noticed stuff that mine does not have.  I saw this one has priming cups (two) on the intake manifold.  Where this added on my some owner or is this a very early car?

Look at the oil lines from the oil pump.  This looks added on.  Any idea why?  The head seems more rounded at the ends than mine.  If I recall correctly, mine is more square.   Too bad about the broken angle dist drive.

I could not get the link to the site to work, sorry about that.
rusty

I have a orginial carb but that plan on setting on the self and use a Model A carb as the driver carb.  Which one is "better" for the plymouth   Tillotson or Zenith?  Does it matter?  Which fits better?  rusty

Were luggage racks a option or aftermarket?  Would a Model A ford rack fit without major surgury?  I found a trunk at a auction and would like to use it if possible.  Could someone post photos  on the rack and how it is mounted?  Is the spare tire mounted on the outside of the trunk?
rusty

What is the correct color for the brake fuild reservoir can   and the fuel pump cannister?  Mine are both more rust than paint.

I removed the bell housing to clean and paint and found out that it mount to the frame rails by "motor mounts".  I guess it would be more correct to say rear motor mounts.  The rubber is hard and problaby should be replaced but since this car is eating money, I probably will not.  THe front one is going to be revulcatized soon.  Has anyone replaced these rear ones or just leave well enough alone?

rusty

What I have learned.  The nut needs to be removed before the crank pully can be removed.  There is a flat washer that has a lip bend over one of the flat side of the hex nut.  It helps to have this lip "fixed" before removing the nut.  A 2 7/8 inch socket with a cordless implact works nice and then a standard puller.

The timing cover can not be removed untill the oil pan is removed.

The copper oil pickup line that goes from the pick up thru the block then to the oil pump can be bend very easy and then a real pain to remove.  The brass fittings really do need a flare nut wrench to remove.

The exhaust manifold needs a lot of oil to remove if rusted to the studs.  That is going to be problem.  

The angle mount for the distribitor is very fragile and does not need to be hit with a hammer to remove.  I got lucky and did not break it but came very close.  It took a week of soaking in the parts cleaner until in would spin freely.  

The timing gear on the cam is fiber.  Is this orginial?  I removed the nut but can not seem to be able to pull the  gear off.  Does the steel gear on the crank need to be pulled first?
rusty
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Is this a press fit?  I have tried a puller with no luck?  I was gentle as I did not want to break it.  Is there any trick or just pull it off?
rusty

I just pulled the engine at it seems that I have as much oil on the outside as I do on the inside.  I can not get the exhasut manifold off nor the distribitor.  They are currently soaking in Kroil .  I did find that I am missing the oil cup that goes on the angle drive for the dist and the grease cup is rock hard grease.  I just hope that the car was driven far or hard this way.  rusty

I pulled all the parking brake apart to get to the transmission real seal.  The rear of the transmission was heavily soaked in oil/dirt.  The rear seal was easy to get.  One of the few easy to get parts

rusty

CW 15076       (chicago rawhide)

Does any one have a exploded views of a clutch assembly?  The tranmission front bearing retainer is broken and I found a guy that will remake (reweld) mine but he wants a detailed exploded view of clutch throw out bearing assembly.   He wants to make sure that the bearing assembly (throw out and sleeve ) rides on the front bearing retainer.  rusty

Is there  a trick to removal?  I have the trans out along with the throw out bearin  but can not seem to get the clutch out.  I removed all the bolts but the it seems that the center of the clutch plate itself (spline center) is getting caught on the flywheel and I do not seem to have enough room to drop them.  I had to remove one of the fingers of the pressure plate to drop it down to get around the fulrum arm.  I can see how that arm could be removed with the clutch still in place.  It is just brute force?? 
rusty

It appears to be oil soaked also.

Since the U does not have a water pump, did these car ever come with a heater?  I got mine out of North dakota which is not the warmest place on earth.

rusty

How do you remove the wood steering wheel?  Mine needs to be fixed.  The owners manual is not helpful

rusty

When the engine needs to come out, do most poeple pull the tranmission with the engine as one unit or pull the engine seperately?  Do the fenders need to come off?  rusty

As many of you know, I have completely redid the brakes.  I wanted a good stopping car before I got to the driving part.  Since I was under the car , more than in it, I thought it was a good time to grease all fittings.  I drained everything and then took off the clutch inspection plate.  This was a sad moment as a large amount of metal was in the pan.  I looked up and it looks like the throwout bearing sleeve (??pot metal??) is missing a few large pieces.  Does anyone have their clutch apart currently and able to take a photo of the sleeve, with or without the throwout bearing.  I would apreciate it.  I had debated on pulling the engine this winter and now it looks like that decision has been taken care of.

rusty

I have the brakes all done but for some reason I can not get the wheel mounted on the tapered shaft for the rear wheels.  I can not seem to get the hub to line up perfect  with the key way.  Is there a trick or just luck?  Do you mount the wheel with no key way and then drive the key way home?  Is it easier to mount the key way in the hub and then install the wheel?  Or am I just making it harder than it needs to be??
rusty

All my shoes were heavy coated with brake fuild and some with wheel bearing grease.  I rebuild everything.  This is what it cost.

Master clyinder.   This was not resleeved.  The bore was not that bad, some rust but rebuildable.  
                        Rabestos number MK-1     is the kit number  27 bucks.

Wheel clyinder      All 4 were heavy rust and pitted.  Roberts has them for about 45-50 bucks but I had
                        mine all resleeved in stainless for 60 each.  Since I needed the shoes to be relined, this
                        was a lot easier and they are now done forever.  4x60= 240

Wheel clyinder kits.   Now they need to be rebuilt.   rabestos number Wk-7  is a step bore rebuild kit for
                            later mopar.  This kit has 1 1/4 and  1 1/8 cups.   It does have a new spring and
                            outter rubber cups.  You can buy a 1 1/4 rubber cup seperately.  cost 4 each

Powder coating.        I hate a rusty master clyinder so I powder coated mine shiny black.  The brake place
                            had stated that if you are going to powder coat and sleeve that the part should be
                            coated firsted then sleeve as the high heat could loosen the sleeve.  I have a home
                            eastman powder coating system so no extra coat here.

Brake drums.            All 4 were removed from the wood spoke hubs to be cleaned.  It looked a lot easier
                            to clean them off the hubs.  Once degreased, I bead blasted them and then got a
                            good look at what I have.  All were nice smooth surface and only one (rear) was
                            very rough brake surface.  I showed them to my local machine shop and the final
                            decistion was to just use them and not cut them.  The drums then got powder
                            coated black.

Grease seals.            Front ones were leaking and rear ones were missing part of the leather seal
                             front  SKF 18242  5 bucks each
                             rear   38 dollars each from then-n-now auto  in Weymouth, Mass 1-781-335-8860

Wheel bearings          These looked like no rust or pits so they were reused.

Brake hoses.             My local parts place states they have ordered the replacement hoses but were
                             shipped to the wrong store.  Should be here "soon".  I will post there part number
                             here if they turn out to be correct.

Copper washer.         If you type in copper washer on ebay, there is about 50 people selling a box of 110
                             of new copper washers.  I got one and replaced all the copper washers to be safe.

King pins                  Shot and needed new ones,  110 dollars and 50 for the machine shop to install.

Hard lines.                These seem ok to me and I just used air to blow them out and resue them.  I did\
                             remove the master cylinder to resivour and bead blast it to get a nice copper color
                             back and sprayed on a clear coat to keep the copper color.

Rear hub.                 You need a hub puller to remove the rear wheel.  Coast 110 dollars and was used
                             for 30 seconds per side.  What is needed is a FORD model TT hub puller.  The model
                             T puller is to small but the model T truck was called the Model TT.  Any model T
                             parts place on the internet will have one.  

Time                        About 5 weeks to get all the parts done.  It took a week or so to sent off the
                             brake shoes to be relined etc.    Once all the parts were back, it was easy to
                             reinstall.  I was nice to have all nice clean threads and not any oily parts.



                             I used the following
                             Brake and equipment warehouse
                             455 Harrison ST. N.E.
                             Minneapolis  MN  55413
                             612 378 3141
                             800 233 4053

shoes relined             I had all the shoes relined.  It cost 10 dollars per shoe 8x10=80 and then add shipping. 
                              They had new lining glued on. 


Hope this helps

rusty

I pulled the rear brakes backing plate off to clean as the grease seal is /was leaking.  I did not have brake fuild all over the brakes  ( like the front ones ) but grease.  I bet someone over filled the zerk for the outer wheel bearing.  The grease seal is a 80 year old leather and is missing some of the leather.  The seal seems to be two pieces of metal stamped together with the seal between them.  Has anyone replaced these?  rusty

I will need to get the tires off and am looking for a split rim tool.  Could someone post a photo of theirs?  Do they have three or only two legs that pry the tire off?  Do you need different sizes for different size rims or would any anitque tool work?  thanks

I need all new hoses as I could tear mine with my bare hands, yes, I have been working out.  I saw on chet's web site that he used new hoses.  Would you have the part number that is on the line by chance?

thanks.   I currently have the shoes off to be relined.