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Messages - racertb

#451
Right...I will try to upload a clip asoon as I can.  It had the same/similar miss before, but she still drives well.  At least I have something to work with now :)   
#452
Well, she fired up today.  Went through everything again, changed plugs (reinstalled the Champions just for the hell of it, even though that probably didn't do anything), used the test light just to make sure I was still good with spark, etc. 

Still no start, so I pulled distributor and rotated 180 degrees degrees then cranked her up. I must have been trying to start her on the power stoke vs. the compression stroke (or vice versa).

She ran very slow and rough, but she ran.  I advanced the distributor until she smoothed out nicely.  Still a miss noticeable through the tail pipe but I took her out for a short 5 mile run. She ran great, but still need to fine tuned. She was popping a little through the carb right when I got home.

Needless to say I'm very happy.  I will try a to attach a video with sound later so you all can hear the miss I'm talking about.  I will try to fine tune next weekend, possibly using a vacuum gauge. 

I'm just curious/concerned about how this problem happened in the first place.  Thank you to all of you who have been trying to help me along the way.  I'm sure I'll have more questions when I get to the miss and fine tuning.

#453
Thanks Chet.  This valve positioning you describe is what I want to look at before I put the valve cover back on.  I am hoping that this will get me closer to getting her started again.
#454
I will check anything at this point, but I was using the "finger" method on #1 cylinder to feel the pressure of the compression stroke each time I did this, so I believe I was doing it correctly.  Then #4 should be on the exhaust stroke.  That's why I want to look at the valve positioning with the valve cover off to see if there is an issue there.

I've been out of town for several days, so I hope to get back at it this coming weekend.
#455
Thanks Ian!  I appreciate the offer to go out of your way for this.  I will be out of town for several days and won't be able to get to the car for a week, so no rush.

I have a couple of video clips of the car turning over and also me rotating the distributor by hand.  If I can post them, I will.  I want to make sure the distributor looks "right" (to you all following this post) as I'm rotating it and that it doesn't have too much play/slop.

Ted
#456
Thanks Old Man, the advice you and others give is at least encouraging even if I can't get her started yet!   I will get my son to turn the crank for me, or I could push the starter button, so I can watch the valve movement.  At first glance yesterday, they were all moving and looked like everything was working OK, at least mechanically.  I want to watch again myself.

Again, the gear looked good as far as I could see from the backside.  If the valve operation looks good, I guess I'll put the valve cover back on and go back to seeing if it's electrical.
#457
I thought I would continue the saga with the latest on this new thread.  So after much trial and error, I pulled off the valve cover so I could view the cam gear teeth through the rectangular window.  I had my son turn the crank slowly several times so I could get a good look through the angle I had.  From what I could see, there was no sign of teeth missing or even being chipped on the fibre gear...I really doesn't look and feel like fibre anyway.

I also had a chance to see the valves operating, but I want to go back and make sure that the valves for each cylinder are in the "proper" position.  I am attaching a few photos for reference.

These two are just shots of my view of the cam gear teeth looking through the "window":






This shot of the valves with number 1 piston (on right) aligned to TDC:




This shot is of number piston #3 and 4 valves (#4 on left):






I know this probably doesn't help to solve the issue, but again, I want to make sure the valves are operating the way they are supposed to.  Is there anything else I should be looking for at this point?  I don't want to have to get into to engine/timing cover if I don't have to...

Thanks for your help...

Ted



#458
Got the valve cover off and everything looks real clean.  Got to check out all the cam gear teeth tomorrow...the teeth I've seen so far look good.  Will look at the rest at least once tomorrow the look at valve positioning.  I'll post the results and any questions I have as soon as I can.
#459
Also, distributor turns clockwise (looking down from above) smoothly, points opening and closing "properly", etc.  Everything APPEARS to be functioning the right way.   Again, I need to feel better about the spark getting to the plugs before I do anything else.
#460
Thanks Old Man and John.   I'll look into that.  I have a 30U block that happened to have the valve cover off and I saw the rectangular hole John is referring too.   I want to check for spark one more time at the plugs as started to last night because it didn't look consistent, even though I'm getting a good spark from the coil wire and everything (cap, rotor, wires, etc.) is new.
#461
Hey John:

Are you suggesting this advance by distributor adjustment or by acutually doing this with setting TDC slightly more advanced than what's called for?

I'm assuming the just dialing the distributor and setting it slightly more advanced than one might do (?)

Also, I've been out of town a lot lately, so I hope to get the car going this weekend.  I basically started over (again), found TDC (I hope), got the rotor pointing in the right direction, verified firing order of the plug wires, and even put in new points/condensor (again).  I'm just ready to go out and try again and hopefully get her back on the road.
#462
Hi Frank,

Doing well and going to go at it again tomorrow.  Found some fish paper and put a piece in cut to the size you provided, bought two sets of points and condensers to make sure I have extras, and ready to try to static time again tomorrow.  On the AACA site, someone was talking about static timing a '25 Dodge and mentioned TDC was right at the point where you feel the pressure just starting to to release.  I was doing it right at full pressure or maybe slightly before?  So based on the '25 Dodge thread, I will try it that way.  I may still be too far advanced currently...

So I will try again... I have fuel, spark, distributor turns, correct firing order, etc.  Unless I'm missing or forgetting something, I think everything is right to get her started.  I was hoping to have her running by now.  I'll be sure to let everyone know one way or the othe .

Ted
#463
General Discussion / Re: Engine Stalls
May 07, 2014, 06:06:19 PM
Frank - I wish I could help!  I can't even get my old gal started still  >:(
#464
Still trying to get her going...she acts like she wants to start, hopefully almost there.  I've had to start over with finding TDC and lining up the rotor to the number one plug wire on the cap.  Still off and now just rotating the distributor into different positions hoping she'll kick off.  Last night got real close until battery died...charging up and will try again tonight.

I've followed every step and suggestion and it's definitely not that simple, at least not on this car.
#465
Thanks Old Man.  It makes perfect sense and that's the way I was thinking about it.  I just wanted to hear someone like you or the other helpful folks on here verify it.  The whole process is so simple when you think about it, I'm just at the point where I'm sure I'm close, I just have to recheck everything and dial it in.

One other thing though with the distributor.  When I had the test light on it to watch the light go on and off as the points were opening and closing, I had to keep my finger on the rotor (pushing against it toward the left) as I was moving/rotating the distributor.  Otherwise when turning the distributor, everything would turn, so the test light wouldn't light up. This to me seemed odd, but I assumed it was OK. The distributor does turn fine when the engine turns over.