• Welcome to 28Q29U Plymouth Forum.
 

News:

NEW FORUM version is here. 
If you are experiencing any problems, contact chetbrz@aol.com
WELCOME Auto Registration is turned OFF. 
In order to register for this forum please contact chetbrz@aol.com to request access.

Main Menu

steering wheel

Started by Rusty, March 28, 2010, 09:23:48 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Rusty

My wheel  has a few large cracks and needed to be removed to be fixed correctly so this is how I did it.

1.  Unbolt the clamp at the bottom of the steering box to reable to remove the steer controls and horn buttom

2.  Unbolt the 4 bolts of the frame to the steering box
3.  Remove the lower haft of the steering columen to dash mount
4.  Tilt the steering wheel down to the floor about 12-15 inches from normal postion
5.  Remove the steering controls, just pull them out.
6.  I then used a puller to pull off the steering wheel.
7.  I then used a NAPA steering pitman arm puller to remove the pitman
8.  I pull the box forward and the column followed and came out nicely

TIPS
  I bought a model A ford steering wheel puller as in the photos. A modern puller will not work.  The plymouths column is 1.5 inches but the Model A's came in two diameters , 2 inch (smaller) and larger size.  What I did was buy a large washer with a 1.5 inner diameter opening and cut it with a cut off wheel to make a C looking spacer.  This goes between the lower puller plate and the bottom of the steering wheel itself.  The lower plate is 1/4 inch thick and upper is 3/8 thick steel. 

Rusty

Part two ( I hit the wrong button)

I would rec to buy a USA made one as it is thicker steel vs off shore made.   I placed a scrap 1/8 steel plate over the threads of the column to protect the threads.  I used a cordless inpact wrench which makes about 200-225 foot/pounds of torgue.  It took three trys with this.  I would tighten pretty tight and then loosen.  The last time I just held the trigger down and it came off with a loud pop.  You can see in the photos that 3/8 top piece is slightly bend and the lower steel plate also was bent.  The wheel is held on by a keyway and not a "normal" splined shaft like the pitman arm.

I then took the box apart, very easy and cleaned out very old grease.  I am starting of fixing the steering wheel inself.  Will update once I start that.
rusty

Rusty


Rusty

damaged that needed to be fixed

Rusty


Rusty

What I am doing to fix the spokes is this.  I used a Dremel to grind away the old wood putty with a cutter wheel.  I then used my cordless dremel that has a limited RPM of 15,000 and 7.500 vs a true 30,000 for a plug in model.  I then used a small drill bit at the very slow speed which would not really "touch" the orginial good shape wood but the dry rot stuff, that stuff is a differenct story.  I felt like a denist with a patient full of bad teeth.  Once the rot was cleaned out, I used two part clear expoxy with a slow drying time (3 hours) and a tooth pick.  I would poke the expoxy in with the tooth pick and then recheck in 20-30 minutes and poke more in expoxy.  It took a few hours of here and there stuff but worked nice.  Unless you really look very close, you will not see the gloss expoxy. 
It appears that the orginal wheel was painted/stained black, is this true?  If so, mine has the color removed and I was just going to leave the wood as is, matches the wheels wood.
rusty

chetbrz

Rusty,

In your original post below step 5 said "Remove the steering controls, just pull them out.".  How does the horn button cover come off.  Does that come loose with the control arms ??

Thanks, I will have to go down this path someday in the future,

Chet....
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

Rusty

It appears that the assembly is held together with two screws.  If removed, it appears that the horn and levers then can be  removed.  I have not done such yet.  Hope the photos helps.
rusty

chetbrz

Great info, Thanks

Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member