Can anyone tell me what the original cowl lacing looked like?  Was it the flat type ot double beaded type?  And, how wide and thick should it be?

On my radiator shell, I have 3/4 inch wide double beaded lacing, with beads 3/16 inch thick.  However, this seems too thick and narrow for the cowling.

John

You must prime the oil pump first. 

I would do the following:

1) pack the oil pump with vasaline.  That is how the old timers primed the pumps.  (While the cover is off, check the inside to see if the two vanes are in there with their springs pushing them out against the sides.)  The hot oil will wash the vasaline out.  Do not use grease.  (Another method is to remove the pump, submerge it in a bucket of oil, and turn the gear by hand until all the air bubbles come out and only oil is moving through the pump, then reinstall it.)

2) Be sure the small air line from the oil pump to the fuel pump is tight on both connections.  If not, the oil pump will not pump oil.

3) Remove the spark plugs.  Shut off the gas so no indavertent sparks start a fire.

4) Now with the clutch in, run the starter.  The engine should turn over very fast.  Try it for no more than 60 seconds at a time, to allow the starter to rest and cool.  Sometimes it takes more than one time to get the pressure to come up.  When it does, you should see about 20 lbs of pressure.

You will not harm the engine, since there will be no compression load in the cylinders.  The bearings should have enough oil on them to handle turning without a compression load.

If you have any doubts about your gage, test it on something else first.  Better yet, use a substitute new gage, even if only temporary.

IA few other tips. I go two steps further now.  I disconnect the oil intake tube from the oil pump and sweeze some Lucus oil into the draw tube to prime that, then reconnect.  I also remove the pump and force lucas oil into it while turning the gear by hand (vice packing with vasaline - which does work well.)

If you still have no luck, remove the pump and place a draw tube from the intake to a can of oil and turn it by hand to see if it is working.  You should be able to tell quickly.

After you have oil pressure, reinstall the spark plugs and turn on the gas and start her up. 

If the oil pressure goes above 40 lbs under any cicumstances, shut her down immediately.  (Be sure you have a good gage.  Suggest using a temporary mdern gage.) Then remove, clean and check the oil pressure releif valve.  Reinstall and start again.  If the pressure is still above 40 lbs, turn the screw counterclockwise to relieve some pressure and lower the oil pressure to about 30-35 lbs.  Then let the engine run a while and get good and warmed up.  Then rev the engine.  If the oil pressre goes above 40, turn the relief valve some more. What you are looking for is a max of 40 lbs hot at full rev RPM (~2000 RPM), and about 15-20 lbs (sometimes less if very hot) at idle (800 RPM).

There were apparently two types of gas tank gagaes.  One like yours (and mine) has a long neck and a small cap.  I never had a glass on mine.  Not sure if that was the way it was originally, but it was kinda convienent, cause I could always check if it was stuck or not. 

The other sat closer to the tank and had a larger cap.  That one had a glass cover.

Rusty,

I got mine from Then and Now - need to ask to speak directly with Tom Hannaford.  The seal parts mauals show two sizes for the pinion shaft that the seal rides on.  However, mine was different from either of them.  Best to measure to be sure.  If Tom no longer carries them, then call Larry Chegwidden (after 8 PM Pacific time) at (503) 253-8941.  He makes the axel seals and may also carry the pinion seal, but I am not sure.

1930,

The fittings on top are brass.  One the one from the gas tank is basically a similar female flare fitting as on the gas tank.  The other brass fitting is for a 1/8 copper compression fitting, basically the same as for the other end of the line that connetcs to the oil vac pump on the engine.  See attached picture.  There is one fellow I knew of that repairs these, he may have some to sell?  I will try and find his name if you want.  John 29U

These pumps are very simple, and if kept clean and tight, work fairly well.

Below is a copy the post I was referring to, from Dec 2007:

"Rick,

Here is a picture of mine [Kingston Vac-Fuel pump for 29 Plymouth].  

KINGSTON PRODUCTS CORP  Kokomo Indiana  -  Model 39
Date#   5 / 30
COULOMBE PAT'S
JAN 18, 1921    -    AUG 1, 1922
APR  7, 1922    -    JAN 22, 1924

Chet"

Who rebuilt your engine?

Type in "Kingston" in the search window and then go down an open the subject "Kingston Vacume Fuel Pump is Overflowing - Any Advice? "  You wil find a picture of the tank and information on how it works.

Can you provide the felt warehouse name, address, web-site?

I have one engine that had a cork gasket.  Then and Now Automotive has replacement cork, but I chose to try a rope seal.

I have another engine that has been modifed to use the Dodge/Plymouth slit steel/Nitrile seal.

I have a pully on my engine that was brazed and I have driven it over 9000 miles with no problems.

The following have old parts engines and may have a pully for you:

BEN OSTRANDER
SITE 11 BOX 52 RR 1
DE WINTON AB  T0L 0X0
CANADA 

Ray Ganser
Box 357
Provost, Alberta
Canada  T0B  3S0

Otherwise, there is a machine shop in my town that could make one, not sure what the price would be though.

Thanks guys!

Saw this 6 volt fuel pump om ebay.  Can this be used on our 28-31 Plymouths (if the vac-fuel pump does not work)?

Item number: 280435118672

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280435118672&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AWNARL%3AUS%3A1123

There is no seal for the front of the xsmsn.

Don Sommers makes them for $175 each out of stainless.

I bought a stainless radiator cap from him - very good.

John

I have never removed the bell housing.  I remove the transmission and flywheel, then pull the engine, leaving the bell housing in place.

You can pull the transmission without removing the engine.  In fact, the transmission must be removed before the engine can come out, unless, as you mention, you removed the entire assembly by un-bolting the bell housing - but that is not otherwise necessary.

The throught bearing slides along the nose cone.  I have seem one where the nose cone busted when the throwout bearing stuck to it.  You may be able to weld the nose cone back on - depending where it broke, since hte throwout bearing slides on it.  But, it might be better to replace the transmission.

While you are at it, may as well remove the clutch and flywheel and have them inspected and repaired, as necessary.