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OIL

Started by SteveG, September 02, 2013, 10:40:23 PM

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SteveG

When I got my '28 Q six months ago I drained the oil and dropped the pan.

I cleaned about 1/2" of sludge form the bottom of the pan and put 4 quarts of Delo in and drove about 30 miles.

The oil was black so I dumped it and ran the Delo again. After about 30 miles the oil was black again. No clean up at all.

What do you folks recommend? Do you suggest I run non-detergent oil?

All and any input will be appreciated.

SteveG.   

chetbrz


Steve,

Rightly or wrongly in an old motor I have always stayed away from detergent oils unless the motor was rebuilt.  The theory is not to loosen a large chunk of oil sludge that can clog a port and create mechanical damage. Clean out as much as you can and change the oil frequently would be my advise.

Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

Old Man

#2
These old cars always had very dark oil. It does not seem to make any difference as to longevity of the motor. I have just lived with it for 30 or more years. They had a lot of blow by into the crankcase and out the breather and the oil didn't stay pretty very long. I use 10-40,I don't think I can buy a non detergant oil, and I add a 'friction modifier' called PROLONG. It looks like plain oil but you only add a small amount at a time. I have proven to myself ,at least,after several years of using it, that it does make things slide better. I use it in my antiques and daily drivers.
  I had a flat head six finally get to the point where I couldn't live with the smoke and carboning of the plugs anymore. It also had a knock that I thought was the water pump. I had been using PROLONG for several years by then. I pulled the pistons and 4 of the 6 had shattered rings. No piece was bigger than 2". Cylinder walls scratched or gouged? None. Not a bit. The knock was front #1 connecting rod bearing insert worn. The cylinders were still in 'standard bore' size as was the crank shaft. I just changed all the rings with standard and the con rod bearings with standard. Engine is like new and has been for about 8 years now. Oil still gets black after a while after a change so I have long since given up on changing it because of color.
 These engine were built of virgin steel. This was the first time this steel was used. (Bodies as well.) Unlike our daily drivers which are old stoves and refrigerators and rusted cars. And Plymouth used chrome nickel steel for eveything including the engine block and the tranny and rear end gears. These engines are overbuilt by today's standards. I believe the reason todays junk stays together as long as it does is because of the vastly superior lubricants. Even an ordinary can of automotive mineral oil for an engine says on the can that a 'friction modifier' has been added. I've been told that General Motors Canada buys PROLONG by the tank car load. So it's my contention that these old engines are built of sturdier stuff than today's but as we use today's lubricants, they should last virtually forever. Do not use the original manual as a guide for lubrication. All that 'SAE 160',fiber grease,kerosene for certain temperatures and single number engine oil is gone. Use modern hypoid fluid in the rear end and SAE 90 gear oil in the tranny. I also use a friction modifier in those areas called MOYSLIP G but Americans know it as MR. MOLY,I believe. With my car sitting on a flat surface like concrete, I can put my knee,while standing, against a bumper and very easily push the car across a parking lot. It never fails to amaze people. I'm sure this was not possible with lubricants of the 1920s and 30s or even as late as the 80s. Hope that helps from the life's experience of an old man.              

SteveG

Great reading your experiences with oil in our old MoPars. Makes sense to me. Thank you.

I'm thinking of sticking with Rotella 15/40. Lots of zinc and ZDDP.

Steve G

imoore

Just curious, wouldnt 15W40 oil be too thin. Unless its a fully rebuilt engine?
I know with mine I use Penrite Shelsey Medium oil. Its an SAE 40 Mineral based oil with low detergents. I wouldn't run anything thinner than 20W50. The oil film on the bearings just would not be sufficient with thinner oil in my opinion.
1928 Q tourer (Holden bodied)
Several vintage stationary engine

SteveG

You may have a good point. I googled the oil that you use and the description sounds ideal. The only problem is it appears to be unavailable in the States.

I think I'll try Delo straight 30w or 40w diesel oil. It contains a healthy dose of ZDDP. I avoid Delo LE which is their modern equivalent with less ZDDP and zink.