I purchased this kit many years ago when I was still working. I believe in Toronto but I don't remember where. I think I paid $30 or $40 for it. The O rings are fuel proof and of course oil and grease proof. I have used them to seal all sorts of old grease fittings and areas in and on carbs that they couldn't seal originally except using cork or paper. I've even put them in places where grease or oil was leaking through and there was no seal originally. Just a thought to help fix some of the poor sealing on our old Plymouths.  

Yes that's the original "beehive" light for a '28 or '29 Plymouth all body styles. The only bit of information I can give is Durant used the same lamp and stantion as Plymouth in those years.

Highway 59 you have all original correct handles. Chet you have aftermarket replacements from the late 30s for the inside. The outside door handle is correct. I suspect they were replaced when the white metal originals started to break off as the windshield crank of Highway 59's already has. I've included a scan of the Model A escutcheon. The hole is 11/16" and it appears to be 1 5/8" in diameter. I think it's stainless but that gives it the look of nickel plating which they were originally. I think it fits our 28'/29' Plymouths but I may be thinking of later 30s Plymouths? (Sorry for the fuzziness and chatter. It doesn't really look like that!)

The 1st photo of inside door handles appear to be original 1929. They all had that flowering bit on the end. Don't know about the group in the 2nd photo. The outside door handles in both photos are original 1929. They are shared with a couple of off brand cars like Durant. They also used to be used on the doors of cabinets made by STEELCASE. I believe the inside escutcheons are the same as Model A Ford #A48139AR $2.85 in Mac's catalog from Buffalo. The conical springs that hold the door panel out against the escutcheon are also available from Mac's #A48284 .59 cents.  (There's a bunch of stuff in Mac's catalog for 1928-31 MODEL A Ford that will do for our Plymouths. I figure the stuff was made by the same manufacturers back then. For instance the roll down curtain ends are the same as ours. They sell grease fittings for Alemite, hard to find plated slot drive window garnish moulding screws, fender welt, $10 ea. amber or red utility lights to make up removable directional signals,original hard to find small wiper blades. And the catalog is free and they will ship UPS or snail mail whatever you want. Very easy to deal with on 1-800 line.)     

For over 50 years I have used a product called MolySlip. I believe it was at one time called Mr. Moly in the U.S. It uses molybdenum as the slip coefficient modifier in a base that will not melt even with a torch blasting at the stuff. (I've tried it.) You simply melt out all the original mineral grease with a propane torch and then push the bearing down in the MolySlip can until it oozes out the race. Reinstall with a good smear on the race faces before putting everything together. You will NEVER have to grease the bearing again and it will NEVER chew down it's races. NEVER. And the vehicle will move easier with this stuff in the bearings. I don't know why more people don't use the stuff. It's been around for many years and can also be bought under house brand names at different automotive stores although I prefer the original MolySlip. NAPA handles the MolySlip brand up here. They also put the stuff in cartridges for grease guns. I shoot this stuff into steering knuckles and such and NEVER have any failures or wear. It's all I've ever used since the mid sixties. You see people sitting by the side of the road with small utility trailers disabled with burnt bearings? I've never had that happen and I load the trailer with a 1/3 of a bush cord of wood in Summer 30C weather to bring home 5 or more cords of hard wood. And I have never reloaded the bearings in 20 years. MolySlip also makes this stuff in an oil carrier called "MolySlip G" for gears. The G is used as an additive for manual trannies and rear ends. The tranny will shift easier especially these old crash boxes. I shoot it into universals and never have to service them again. When I buy another "new" modern daily driver,the 1st thing I do is pull all the bearings and put this stuff in. Same with the steering knuckles. And 5 or 6 years later when I sell it I have never had any bearing  or steering wear out.           

I've lost contact with the site but there is a repro site in Australia the makes a lot of Dodge and Plymouth stuff as well as other vehicles. And I believe one of the things they cast is the base for these Plymouth white metal distributor bases. I remember it was horrendously expensive,by my pocketbook, but it would be quicker. I think it was several $100 U.S. plus shipping from downunder. I think they use one of those new computer printer systems to image a part using a laser.   

Neat. I have several ads somewhere in different mags for KARI-KEEN trunks. I've never seen one in the flesh before.

Australia is a continent. It's like asking someone in New York to stay away from the brush fires in California.

I'm getting close to letting them go. I've had them for years,since my '29U days. It looks like they're worth around $250 each at today's prices. Two of them are NOS. Non have dents. But as I say,finding '28/'29 or '30 wire wheels is the problem. If someone had the whole set on their Plymouth,wheels and caps, they would be the only one on the block for sure. I found them one at a time over several years but I've not seen any more in maybe 20 years.

These are the 1st hub caps/wheel discs ever used on a Plymouth car. They fit the wire wheels of '28/'29 and '30,I believe. I know for certain they fit '29 wires and you can see them on a fancy town car in a Plymouth ad from 1929. (I have the ad somewhere.) They're rare as hens teeth,maybe rarier. But so are the wire wheels to take them. 

The reason there is a grease cap on the wire wheels is because they took the 1st hub caps/wheel discs for Plymouth. (I have a set on my wall.) They would require a something to hold the grease in place or at least keep it from spining out into the rear of the fancy new hub cap.

The real reason you don't have an extra grease retainer on early cars with screw-on hub caps is becasue the Plymouth "P" cap IS the grease retainer. When they went to hub caps and wheel discs they had to install a push-fit cap on the end of the axle to keep the grease in place.   

Go to a wrecking yard and take a plastic float out of a modern car gas tank. Pick a small compact car that will have the smallest float in it. It will just have to clear the side walls of your vacuum tank. You will have to jerry rig it to your float but I wouldn't think it would be that difficult. Would last forever.   

The non adjustable mounting on 2 hollow metal pegs was the North American standard method of mounting the Q and U front lower seat. The back was mounted to the floor and fixed to the center posts as part of the rigid assembly of the body.

I seem to remember that this bracket was the same for many years. Does it not mount under a head nut or 2? And it has a two piece spring mount on the horn end that mounts to the horn with two of the horn's rim bolts? If I'm right this bracket is the same on any Plymouth or Dodge that mounts the horn on the cylinder head around the '28 to '35 model years.