I took her out yesterday and noticed that at 39 mph no problems but at the instant I hit 40mph the front end started to shake very badly.  It also seemed like the front end would fall off but it stopped very quickly once the speed dropped below 40.  I was using my kid and his GPS as the speedo is broken.  I have replaced the kingpins but not tie rod ends but that should not make a difference.  Could wheel balance be a issue?  Were they ever balanced to begin with??  Does not seem a driveline issue (new u joints, flywheel put on correctly) since in lower gears but high RPM no shakes.  rusty

I found that I was  missing the speedometer cable (inner) and got a new one made (bob speedometere) but now since it runs, the speedometer does not work.  I think the gauge is broke.  Has anyone taken theirs apart?  Hard?  Has any one sent it off to be repaired?
rusty

I plan on working on the interior this coming winter.  Where is good place to start for a complete orginial style interior?  Mine is very not orginial style.  rusty

On a later 4 clyinder (with a mechanical fuel pump), were the oil pumps the same?  Were they of the "vane" design?  Were there a vacuum brass fitting on the suction side?
rusty

the first photo is how the valve was when I got the car.  Does anyone know which way is correct.
I still have no oil pressure after 2   one minute cranking events.  I was wondering if the relief valve was wrong, if that could do it.??

I just got the lastest Hemming Classic Car and the editor has a list of cars that they want to feature.  One in the 1929 plymouth (any model)  If anyone has a nice shape car, inside and out, they wanted to be contacted for a possible article.  I do not plan on having my done for anytime soon.  My interior is very not orginial.  Just passing it along to the group.

send your info to      rlentinello@hemmings.com

rusty

Could someone post a photo of the choke linkage/cable of a Model A carb?  I replaced my orginial (rebuild later) with a ford carb but the choke is opposite.  I could hook it up so that pulled out is open and pushed in is "open" which would be opposite of the orginial.  Do you just run a very long cable and connect on the side toward the rad?  rusty

I removed the head light chrome outer ring and found the ring that holds the cover (and lens) to the rest of the bucket is heavly rusted.  It is a metal strip that is shaped into a V and then bent to a circle.  It goes around the head light bucket (which has a matching but opposite direction V).  Mine is very rusty and could break at any time.  I was thinking of using POR-15 and a thin strip of fiberglass to  reinforce the rusty areas.  Any other ideas?  rusty

I am reinstalling the steering box and head light switch.  Could someone post a photo of the bracket of how the trottle lever connects to the bottom of the steering box.  I am missing all throttle levers.  It appears that the rods them self are 1/4 inch steel rod.  I have the pivot bracket that is in the middle of the linkage but not how they are connected to the steering lever rods.
thanks
rusty

The black hard plastic that is below the steer wheel levers was missing a piece about 1 inch long.  I used JB weld putty and molded a piece to fit the opening and then after 30 minutes filed and sanded it down to match the same shape.  I then used a very light spray of black spray can paint to the area.  You can not  tell unless it is pointed out to you.
rusty

I tried starting up the engine but have no oil pressure.  The gauge worked before I took it all apart.  I removed the vacum connection on the oil pump and squirted in about 4 oz of 30 weight into the top of the pump.  I pulled the spark plugs and put some oil down the cylinders.  How long of cranking should I go before seeing results on the gauge?  How long can I crank before I would cause any ring wear?  The pump is rebuilt by Tom at then n now auto.  I did not adjust the oil pressure relief valve.  I do not know if someone "tighten" this as the oil pressure dropped due to wear over the years.  I was going to get it running and then adjust if needed.
rusty

My wheel  has a few large cracks and needed to be removed to be fixed correctly so this is how I did it.

1.  Unbolt the clamp at the bottom of the steering box to reable to remove the steer controls and horn buttom

2.  Unbolt the 4 bolts of the frame to the steering box
3.  Remove the lower haft of the steering columen to dash mount
4.  Tilt the steering wheel down to the floor about 12-15 inches from normal postion
5.  Remove the steering controls, just pull them out.
6.  I then used a puller to pull off the steering wheel.
7.  I then used a NAPA steering pitman arm puller to remove the pitman
8.  I pull the box forward and the column followed and came out nicely

TIPS
  I bought a model A ford steering wheel puller as in the photos. A modern puller will not work.  The plymouths column is 1.5 inches but the Model A's came in two diameters , 2 inch (smaller) and larger size.  What I did was buy a large washer with a 1.5 inner diameter opening and cut it with a cut off wheel to make a C looking spacer.  This goes between the lower puller plate and the bottom of the steering wheel itself.  The lower plate is 1/4 inch thick and upper is 3/8 thick steel. 

I am looking for a new rear pinion seal.  I tried then and now with no luck.  It seems that there is a early seal and late seal.  Does any have any leads on such?  Is there a difference?  I had groove worn in the pinion which I installed a ready sleve so I could reuse the orginial if needed.
rusty

I was working on my gas tank and since the gauge was not working, that seemed like a good place to start.  It is held on my the cap which is just screwed on, once this was off, there was two pieces of very crudely cut glass circles and then the gauge it self.  Very simple, just needed a cleaning to start working again.  My question is this, was there a glass covering the gauge?  If you reinstall with a glass covering, how do you not have the gauge itself not spin while tightening the outer cap.  With not a glass covering, you just hold the guage down with your finger to prevent it from spining.
rusty

I useful tip I found out.  I had to take the block with the exhasut manifold attached as it was rusted to the mounting stud.  They had to use a torch to heat it up and remove the manifold.  They then planed the mounting surfaces so they would be flat against the block.  I did not have the intake done at that time.  I mounted them both up on the block and there was a good gap between the intake and the exhaust manifold.  There is a gasket that goes there but that was not going to fix the gap distance.  On a normal flathead inline, the intake is bolted to the exhasut manifold top down so they are bolted together and both taken to the machine shop and planed together to get a nice flat mounting surface.  On there 4 poppers, they are mounted side wise and not bolted togother.  What had to be done was threads were cut in the exhasust manifolds bolt holes and then they could be bolted together and then planed.  Unless they really need to be planed, try not doing such.

rusty

My engine went in with perfectly.  No a problem at all.  I then installed the flywheel and then the clutch.  The transmission was a little tight at the front bearing retainer I had made and is a few thousands tight but not a major problem.  I then tighten the clutch to flywheel bolts as I had just had them loosely tight and then SNAP.  A bolt snapped in haft.  I then had to remove everything to get the flywheel off so I could go back to the machine shop to have them drill out the bolt.  It broke about 1/8 inch below the surface and I did not want to take the chance of screwing up the threads.  3 steps forward and 5 backwards.  This is why project such as this take years.
rusty

I had to heat the manifold studs with a torch in order to get the manifolds off and bend one of the long studs that is used on the ends of the exhaust manifold.  It is about 5 inches and I can not find a replacement that long.  I tried taking a 6 inch bolt, cut the head off and thread the end and make a stud but can not seem to get the threads centered.  They seem a little off so the stud is not straight.  Does any one have any ideas on how to center or buy new studs.
thanks rusty

I see in the manual/owner's book that the clearance is 0.008 cold and hot (E 0.006) and (I 0.004).
This seems a little "tight".  Is this was most people run?  I tend to set cold and rarely go back and adjust hot.  I did install new valves, if that makes any difference
rusty

What would be good number to torque the rods, mains, and head bolts?
I was going go with the following
rod 40
main 80
head 80
rusty

Am I correct that the rear main seal is on the outside of the rear main bearing ?  I was not the one who removed the crank, machine shop was.  It appears that the oil flows over the bearing and is collected and drain down thru the lower bearing housing into the pan.  A seal is bolted on the outside of the block (upper) and the outside of the lower bearing .  Mine appears to me made of cork. I got a best gasket set that has a classic rope seal that would work in a "normal" that had a rope seal but not this one.   I had bearings repoured so I would like to have to redue the machining to use a rubber seal.
thanks rusty