I asked this in January of 2019 see link below

http://www.1948plymouth.info/28Q29U/index.php?topic=1312.0

I haven't found a direct replacement.  Might have to machine a slightly modified backing plate to accommodate a modern bearing. With a slightly larger bearing ID.

If you come up with anything please give me a shout.

Russ I didn't post pictures after the muffler Tom did.  Mine are different than original and installed by a muffler shop years ago. Everything from my muffler to the engine was there when I acquired the car back in 2006.  Everything after the muffler is fabricated.

The pictures I post were what I found on my car. I don't know if there were there originally but they appear to be period.

I hope this helps.

Here is the Bell Housing clamp.

I looked back at some of my build pictures and found this one.

There is also one that attaches to the bell housing I'll try to find a pic. 

Initially I had lots of trouble but for other reasons.  Not connecting the vacuum pump for the initial startup of your rebuilt engine is wise.  Make sure the vacuum line is plugged.   This will bring up your oil pressure quicker actually gives an additional 5psi.    Some Vaseline or heavy oil in the oil pump to startup is a good idea. 

Good luck,  Chet

Russ,

You can't add a check valve without a major redesign of the pump.  The main thing is that Fuel line and vacuum line is sized correctly with no leaks.   With mine 6 consecutive hours of engine idling caused my pump to over fill.  This makes sense since actual driving would use more gas that just running idle.

When you first install the pump stay aware of your oil pressure.  Your car will probably take longer to pump up oil pressure with the tank installed.   If there are any problems with the vacuum line you may have problems with oil pressure.  Just an FYI... 

Chet...

John, I bought them one of the years I visited Hershey.  I have been collecting parts for years.  Sorry I can't supply a contact. 

FYI the front wheel seal worked perfectly.  Also the NAPA bearings and races fit perfect.  Found those part numbers on Tods web site.

Here is a link to a Video of the drive:

The link to the Drive Video !!

As of yesterday I finished the work to the front end.  Restoration officially finished.

• King Pins replaced
  
• Front wheel Bearings and Races
  Inner Bearing:           Napa - BR14130
  Inner Bearing Race:   Napa - BR14274
  Outer Bearing:           Napa - BR09074
  Outer Bearing Race:   Napa - BR09194
  
• Dust seal: CR 18242 from Northeast Parts  (northeastparts.com)
• New front brake shoes
• New drum on driver's side. (NOS)

Car drove nice. No wheel bangs or scrapes.  The front end was tight and responsive.  The Vacuum Fuel pump is still working without issue after 4 hours of total run time.   Drove 30 continues miles at an average speed of 30 mph.   Idle oil pressure 20-25psi  max run 35-40 psi.  Motor meter engine temperature cool.  62 degree day.  Engine break-in runtime 16.3 Hours.  Total driven miles 91.1 (car speedo)

Quote from: moparfreak77 on December 04, 2020, 01:44:42 PM
i was hoping to find originals in good shape, this is somewhat of a "ratrod"

The two handles I replaced were original but neither were locking but both were in good shape.  If you are interested email me and I'll send picture. Then you can make an offer. 

Chet...

Quote from: 29UJohn on November 22, 2020, 09:50:10 AM

These are high quality exact replicas.  Prices are in Australian dollars.

https://vintageandclassicreproductions.com/product_brands/1928-1929-plymouth/

Purchased a locking handle and a non-locking handle.  Excellent quality.  I'll install them tomorrow.
Early Xmas present !

Thanks John.