Tom

The seal number I got from John F. He recently replaced them on his car. I should get these seals on Saturday.

The Napa inner bearing fits properly and butts up against the spindle flat correctly.  So at this point I think these part numbers are good to go.

We'll see.

Quote from: Articifer Tom on November 24, 2020, 08:17:44 PM
Any of you find the inner bearing as being 14130 ?  This is number I found on my truck . When looking spec finding to be same . It is also available with race 14274 as set . The 14132 I could not find as set .
  Also about should add seal cr17653 to post .

Tom,

I ordered these parts:

Inner Bearing:           Napa - BR14130
Inner Bearing Race:   Napa - BR14274

Outer Bearing:           Napa - BR09074
Outer Bearing Race:   Napa - BR09194

Dust seal: CR 18242 from Northeast Parts  (northeastparts.com)

So far everything looks good.  Will install after thanksgiving.  King Pins done.

Quote from: Articifer Tom on November 24, 2020, 08:17:44 PM
Any of you find the inner bearing as being 14130 ?  This is number I found on my truck . When looking spec finding to be same . It is also available with race 14274 as set . The 14132 I could not find as set .
  Also about should add seal cr17653 to post .

Tom you're right the inner set is odd.  I ordered the inner bearings from Napa. I also ordered the inner seal part number CR 18242.  I'll let you know how this plays out once I have the parts in hand.

The outer set is very common and can be purchased as a set with bearing & race.

I just put the front axle back in today. I'll be able to mic the spindle tomorrow 

Quote from: 29UJohn on November 23, 2020, 11:28:29 PM
That's what my Hollander book shows.

Thanks John you have been a great help.

Could someone maybe verify that I have this correct:

Front wheel bearings parts: 

Outer Bearing and race:   Timken 09074 / Timken 09194
Inner Bearing and race:    Timken 14132 / Timken 14274

Quote from: DWhited on November 22, 2020, 08:22:13 PM
Good to hear Chet, I have had my 28 out several times over the summer, I noticed you mentioned it ran very cool.  I am kind of curious about the water temperature, I believe mine runs hotter then it should.   Have you ever measured it? I installed thermocouples in the supply and return lines closest to the block.  Mine runs about 208 to 210 deg. F leaving the block and around 120 deg. F supply.  This stays fairly consistent regardless of ambient temp. or miles traveled. I tried an antifreeze mixture and it didn't seem to want to cool properly so I went back to straight water. I am thinking the specific gravity of the coolant affects the circulation. Anyone have any experiences with this?

I measure temperature with a NAPA Infrared Laser Handheld Thermometer, Part# 78-3880.  At the head going into the radiator external block temperature 175 - 185 and bottom radiator temperature 90 - 110 degrees.  The cylinder head is cooler toward the rear of the block than the front.  The rear about 155 - 165.
It sounds like you are about the same.  My assumption is a direct read of the water might prove to be a little hotter.

None technical check.  Radiator hot to the touch at the top much cooler at the bottom.  No steam is good.
(212 degrees is the boiling point of water not under pressure.) 

PS...  I am using a mixture of antifreeze and water approximately 40/60 and always have without problems.  More water than antifreeze.   

I hope this helps.  If you are not developing steam you are probably OK.  Car finds it'd own water level once it dumps what it doesn't need you don't need to add water back.  Iadd some water once each year and the car spits out what it doesn't need.

Hi John,

Thanks for the info. I purchased a king pin set from Rare Parts.  Perfect fit. I removed one spindle than dropped the axle and brought it to a drive line shop here in town.  I am currently replacing a front wheel drum that was badly scared.  I have new brake pads for the front. Do you think the front wheel rear seal is also available.

PS good question about the dip stick.  Kinda like the replace engine light on a modern car.   I've always liked gauges instead of idiot lights. They give you a heads up on a potential problem.

Quote from: Russ T. Fender on November 16, 2020, 11:27:42 AM
If I remember correctly the shackle hole is round with a slot cut in it and the pin has a tit on one end that slides through the slot so when you rotate the pin the tit keeps it from sliding back out.  I used a C clamp to compress the rebound spring and remove the pin.  I was missing one of the rebound springs and made one up from an old leaf I had laying around.  Springs are tempered and hardened so tapering the ends was a bit time consuming as you don't want to get them too hot.  They bend easily enough cold if you have a decent press and grinding the ends a bit at a time with a coarse grit grinding wheel works but takes time.  Does anyone know if cars equipped with shocks still had the rebound springs?

Reread Russ T's remarks above.  If the spring is loose the pin should also be able to turn.  If not probably rusted in place.  Also could be peened on both ends.  If you just want to eliminate the noise find a piece of rubber to wedge under the pin.  The C clamps are to compress the spring to allow the pin to turn.

Quote from: Russ T. Fender on November 16, 2020, 11:27:42 AM
If I remember correctly the shackle hole is round with a slot cut in it and the pin has a tit on one end that slides through the slot so when you rotate the pin the tit keeps it from sliding back out.  I used a C clamp to compress the rebound spring and remove the pin.  I was missing one of the rebound springs and made one up from an old leaf I had laying around.  Springs are tempered and hardened so tapering the ends was a bit time consuming as you don't want to get them too hot.  They bend easily enough cold if you have a decent press and grinding the ends a bit at a time with a coarse grit grinding wheel works but takes time.  Does anyone know if cars equipped with shocks still had the rebound springs?

I can't say for sure but it would make sense that you wouldn't have these springs if you had shock absorbers.  My 2 cents.  We now know at least one person makes them.   

Hi Ted,

I can't help out with a repair fix but can tell you this.  You can have the springs remanufactured but nobody makes those helper springs.   So you don't want to lose them.   I believe you can remove that pin by using a C clamp on either side to take tension off the pin.  With the weight of the car on the springs I don't believe you would need to put much tension on the clamps to remove the pin.  This way you could either install a larger pin like Tom suggested or put a shim sleeve under the pin or a roller tube, again like Tom suggested.  Maybe contact a spring shop they might be able to make the proper shackle.   FYI, The shackle is pinned through the leaf sections.
   
If you are not experienced with a welder you might make the problem worse but I think Russ's solution is another option.
   
Good luck, Chet...

Quote from: Articifer Tom on November 12, 2020, 09:40:54 AM
What where the bearing brand  ?

I don't know.  I haven't gotten there yet and I do have some old bearings lying around someplace.

Good luck with the car show.  Keep your distance.  There haven't been any car shows or cruise-ins here in Delaware this year.  First one on the calendar is in the spring of 2021.  Big event for the little league, that is if they come back and play.

I liked the black and white photos.  Very circa 1929. 

Have fun, be safe...  Chet...

Thanks, I understand what you are saying.  Also thanks also for the diagram.   Chet...

Quote from: Des28Qau on November 11, 2020, 07:35:03 AM
Hey Chet and All.
Just a point for caution re wheel bearings. this applies to front and rear axles.
When I got my "Q" I went over the Brakes and bearings and found quite a lot issues with the front and rear.
Staying on front hubs topic,
I was not happy with the feel when adjusting the front wheel bearings, after on and off again and a few adjustment attempts I removed the bearings from the hubs and stubs and eventually found the issue.
When cross referencing the original bearing numbers (or by sizes) to a modern bearing numbers all the usual dimensions match up.  However the radius on the hub stub-axle shaft to the hub stub-axle shoulder is a larger radius than the newer style bearing, therefor the bearing inner race cone side face, did not rest on the stub axle shoulder (it was binding on the radius). This was the case with all major brands.  I was able to find a retired bearing man through a vintage car club to explain the difference and get the correct bearings. Unfortunately I have no idea what the numbers were . I have attached a diagram and hope it works, and that you can understand what I am trying to say.
Regards Des
Canadian 28Q Australia

Des, When you say you didn't like the feel when adjusting.., was the feel spongy ?  Thanks for the tip.  Chet...

It appears that the knock in my passenger side front wheel is related to the bottom bushing of the king pin.  There is a good amount of play and I can physically move the wheel back & forth and create the knock.  I guess cleaning off the protective years of grease and grime helped bring out the problem.  So I guess I will need to replace the king pin set and while I'm at it, replace the inner and outer wheel bearings. Oh yes probably should install the new brake pads I have for the front.  I guess when I was in this area I should have been more aggressive with repair.  Well I have all winter to find the parts and do the work.

Unfortunately I have never replaced king pins before and could use some advise.  I don't think it's difficult but I don't have any experience.

To remove the Pivot Pin lock pin, Does it just hammer out or is there a set screw.
Also which direction, see picture below:


Any words of wisdom from them that have been there and done that, would be appreciated, Chet...