This is what the Plymouth Master Parts List says. For '28Q and '29U they share the same part numbers and descriptions for wire wheels. They all have "(with side ring)" (?) beside them. Then the next lines are for '30 30U wire wheels and ,besides the description, it says "(has 5 holes)" for 9 part numbers listed. They offered the wheels in 'prime' and 'enamel' etc. That's why so many part numbers for the same wheel. Then ,still in '30U, it gives more wire wheels with "(has 6 holes)". Then it leaves '30U and moves on to PAs. It appears these may be '30Us and not fit '29s?

Kim I'm very sorry to see all the damage to your '35. As said earlier I hope your insurance will cover it. I guess this is closing the barn door after the horse has bolted but Arizona is known for this. At least locally. I was in Phoenix many years ago on business and I witnessed this rolling,lightning filled,water logged sand storm coming down to Phoenix from the mountains late one afternoon. The locals told me they called that time of year the 'typhoon season'. They try to keep it to themselves. In fact I had never heard about it and have really never found anybody who has. All hell broke loose when it hit the city with lightning striking straight down into the sand around homes. There would be a blue,green flash as it hit and they tell me it turns the sand to glass! When it had passed in maybe 10 minutes everything had a coating of wet sand on it about 2" to 3" thick. Vehicles in the hotel parking lot were thick with it. The locals just take it in stride and take their cars over to the car wash and wash it off. Apparently you ran into something like I saw that day. I'm sorry I didn't think to warn you about Arizona's crazy weather.      

The sound is adjusted by the locked screw on the back of the 'can'. If your version doesn't have an external adjustment it wil have an internal one. Take off the 'horn' by removing all the screws around the skirt. If I remember correctly there will be a locked screw on the 'ratchet' somewhere. If this is too 'tight', the AAHH and the GGAHH will be of short duration. The tension needs to be slackened up so the motor will run more freely and the AAHH and GGAAHH will take longer. The center OOOOO is run by the motor current,and your finger on the horn button, and will be the same regardless. Also the moving pawl has to centered on the toothed gizmo. Make sure it's lined up. And rub 3 in 1 oil or some other light oil over everything including the circular sound disc. And as previously mentioned it appears a slight application of silicone grease on the toothed gizmo and the pawl will make a difference. I suspect it will free up the movement by a percentage. And of course it goes without saying to put a couple of drops of light oil on the motor bearings. I just thought of something else. (It's been some time since I worked on one of these.) There is originally a thin cardboard gasket around the skirt. I suspect if this is not there it may 'ground out' some of the sound. The disc may be able to vibrate more freely and produce a louder sound with the gasket in there. Maybe they knew that when they made it. It kept water out but they may of found out it made the sound louder as well. Just as another thought perhaps a gasket on either side of the disc may produce a louder sound? In any case it's the rubbing of the pawl on the toothed thing that produces the sound but the disc works like a speaker cone in a radio and vibrates to amplify the sound. It must be free to vibrate as much as possible. The front of the horn is a megaphone if I'm not mistaken.        

Any headliners I've been involved with had full width flaps sewed on their back sides and these flaps were tacked to the bows. These flaps were about 3" maybe slightly more in width. They were made out of the same wool based cloth as the headliner. In a sedan there was 2,sometimes 3, at the 1/3 and 2/3 position coming from back to front. This produced a line in the headliner right across from left to right that looks today like a fold. When the headliner was finished the headliner looked like it was in 3 panels. This was the common way of attaching the headliner to a wooden roof. The material is made out of taupe or gray colored wool. As far as I know they were the only 2 colors used. A Ford antique car outfit made the last one for me,taupe, using my old one as a pattern. Ford antique stores still have the material in bulk for Fords.  Originally they were put up soaking wet on the factory line. Literally taken out of a bucket of water. They were pulled up as taut as humanly possible,tacked, and then left to dry. The wool material shrunk and that was it. The reason the flaps were the same material was to pull the headliner vertically up tight at that point. If you ever have a sagging headliner today, you can 'repair' it by spraying it with a plastic spray bottle of deionized water you can buy at the grocery store in 4 litre jugs. Do not use tap water as you might stain the cloth. And use a new bottle rinsed out in the deionized water. The headliner will once again pull up taut. Does this answer any of your questions?   

The 'Old Lady' has arthritis bad. I believe all woman get it eventually. More so than men. She is just a couple of years behind me. Since '05 I've spent 5 extended visits in the hospital with her having bone repairs. Two trips resulted in ambulances. A month ago she went out front and slipped on the ice and broke her left femur. A trip to the hospital in an ambulance and a 3 hour immediate emergency operation resulted. She now has a Stryker Gamma Nail in her leg. (Google it up on the internet. Photos come up in Youtube.) And she had been, and still is waiting, to have her right knee replaced with a metal joint. Her left knee was done 4 years ago. She will have an MRI next week to begin again the replacement of her right knee which was interupted with the fall. Depressing? Somewhat. Thankfully it's all paid for by the government. Hopefully once the right knee is done she won't fall again. The fall,besides being caused by the ice, was a result of her stiff right knee. Otherwise she is in great shape. LOL Sorry if I'm being depressing. I just know most of us using these sites for antique cars/trucks are in their 50s,60s and 70s and are antiques themselves. Moneywise we have been wise. We have 7 pensions between us some just a couple of hundred a month. But we will do alright as we have no mortgage. And I buy 5 year old 'cream puffs' and do the repairs myself. But yes the biggest shock was the constant losing of friends in the hobby. We take a couple of trips a year to Cuba and drive on long trips around North America. She wants to go to Scotland to see where her mother was born and raised. If we can ever settle the mobility issue that's where we're going next. I guess the reason I'm telling everybody this is if someone may wonder if they need to put it in 'high gear' as time is getting short. Yes the truth may be depressing but if you want to see that Plymouth finished and on the road, I would hustle. You never know.               

Just another viewpoint on retirement. Take it as soon as you can afford it. Make sure the mortgage is paid off. Do not go into retirement with a mortgage hanging over your head. Ratchet down to good used cars/trucks and stop acquiring 'stuff'. The time for buying 'stuff' because you just want to have it is over. Start getting rid of 'stuff' that you bought years ago and get some money for it because the kid's will just give it away. It means nothing to them. Start travelling NOW. It doesn't matter really where,just start now. At 65 you're only 15 years off 80 in case you've never done the math. Health insurance to travel abroad after 80 for 2 people is prohibitive. Start playing full time with your hobbies, the house will be here after you're gone. Do not make any large additions/changes to the house or your life style. You need the money to enjoy yourselves over the next 15 years or so. Your health slowly deteriorates. This is a given. You will  most likely find out as we did these are NOT the 'golden years' they are the 'rusty years'. And lastly, and the most sad, you will start to lose your friends and relatives at an alarming rate. You will come to fear answering the phone because someone will be telling you so-n-so is gone. And then they may be phoning around to tell everybody YOU've passed on. I'm looking at 70 in a year or so. I'm in good health per se but all the foregoing is personal knowledge and highly recommended.          

You seem to have an inordinate amount of free time and money on your hands. Do you rob banks for a living? LOL

Plan A:Disconnect your fuel system at the last piece of fuel line going to the tank. Take off the gas cap and put a dust blower gun on your air compressor and blow air back into the gas tank through the fuel line. You should hear a lot of bubbling. Put everything back together,with a new inline filter, and drive it. If the problem is 'cured' then you will have to remove the tank and clean it out. Which is another post altogether,Plan B. (You may want to start by unscrewing the drain plug on the bottom of the tank but they are usually 'age welded' in place. However if you get it off it should produce a 3/8" wide free flowing 'tube' of gasoline. If you have to stick something into the hole to start it running then you will have to move on to Plan B.)   

I'm starting to forget now but I think you have Stellite inserts for valve seats. These are the hardened seats that Chrysler put in all their engines to stop seat errossion because there was no lead in gas in those days. They kept it up forever I believe. However if you have hardened seats in the block DO NOT try to grind them with anything steel. They are equivalent to  the steel of wrenches or sockets. You will just dull your steel device. They were ground with beveled stones on a device that straddled the engine when the hood was removed. Mostly they are in good condition and just need to be scrapped carefully to remove any carbon.
  Valves; If you have a good engine repair shop in your area they should be able to go through the 'books' and find new hardened valves that will do for your '29 and be a LOT cheaper and BETTER than any NOS. They may have to be shortened on a lathe and have a new groove cut in them for the keeper. But a good 'old' repair shop can do this. I've had it done. The valves for a 6 cylinder Plymouth turned out to be the same as 1958 Chev 283 ci. V-8 exhaust valves. $5 a piece. All the valves,intake and exhaust, on early sixes are the same so it was 12 X $5 plus $30 to cut and regroove for the keepers. You may want to go this way.    

Kim
Just a word about the repair of that corner. Do not try to duplicate exactly the original work using their 'tongue and grove' method. Use your own methods. I have been there and decided as time went on I was wasting my time learning old methods of master builders that was just slowing down my restoration and would never be seen. Just fill in the corner to the point where it is strong, it will not see anymore water or stress, and bring it to 'surface' so you can nail on the upholstery. That break in the roof side rail: I would just put the best carpenter's glue,read highest priced, in the break and put 3 or 4 #12 wood screws in it from the top or bottom. (I guess you've found out by now that all the screws have to have previously drilled holes for their bodies and their heads)From personal experience today's synthetic 'white' glues,actually the best I like is 'yellow', are impossible to separate once set. Impossible! I have tried to pull a joint apart and only succeded in breaking it somewhere else. And carpenter's glues are user friendly as they are 'water clean up' but 'water proof' when set.      

The PLYMOUTH MASTER PARTS LIST dated Apr. 1 1934 is the 'bible' we use today. It covers 28Q to 33PC/PD. It does not cover 1934s although it was printed in '34. Your copy should be Chrysler part number D-2660. The number is at the bottom of the front cover. Any parts books previous to this one would be suspect as it's believed Chrysler would correct any errors as they went on through the years with these manuals. However with that said I do know that it shows 1932 PB and 1933 PC/PD wire wheel hubcaps to be the same part number. In actual fact '32 PB hubcaps had a slightly 'rounded' edge to them ,different than '31 PAs, and '33 PC/PDs had an indented 'scalloped' edge to them. Otherwise they were the same. It appears by 1934 Chysler just wanted to stock the one cap and so settled on the last one in production. Is this the  kind of 'error' you're looking at?      

No I never worked at an automotive factory. Just a hobbyist. But I have done all the work on my own cars,antique and daily drivers, since I was 16. Which would make it 53 years (!!!).             

I suspect they mean to put grease on the pawl and the toothed device where they run on each other? I would use modern silicone grease because it will not melt and run with engine heat. Never tried that with my '29U. Be interesting what the outcome would be if everybody who has a motor driven Klaxon horn on their Plymouth on this site tries it.
 Another BTW. These motor driven electric horns were simply an advancement of previous hand operated horns. If you look at some of the 'teens and 'twenties cars at a show,Model Ts included, you'll see a horn mounted beside the driver that has a plunger sticking out of it's top. Pushing down on this plunger produces the same 'AAHOOGAH' sound. They just added an electric motor to it. 1930 was about the watershed for motor driven horns versus vibrators. I assume the industry found the cost of making the motor to be not cost effective and moved to the vibrating relay type which we still have today.
 I've never had good reason to put this on the net,until now, but I thought you guys would like it. I've had an original wooden shipping box for a Klaxon 8 horn for many years. I've never seen another in the 40 years I've had it. It appears Klaxon,which I believe was a division of GM, shipped their horns in 1/4" thick wooden boxes. I do not know if this was a replacement shipped to a dealer or the factory got them this way as well.            

The wierd 'up and down' sound was made by the sudden speeding up of a motor and then the slowing down of the motor when current was cut. The motor has a pawl on the end of it's shaft and this pawl runs on a toothed piece of hardened steel. That produces the raspy sound. The steel toothed piece is fixed to a round very thin spring steel diaphram that works like the paper cone in an audio speaker. It serves to amplify the sound. If you hold down the horn button the pawl will just run round the teeth and make the the center sound,the 'OOOOOOO', for as long as you hold the button. Then when you release the button ,the 'GAAH', is actually unpowered. BTW the word Klaxon is French for 'horn'. Klaxonnez means to honk a horn. Pronounced "clacks-on-a" ,long 'a' not a short 'a'.        

Any American publications that I have from Chrysler Corp. have a 'D' number at the bottom of the front cover. Any Canadian ones have a 'WM' number.  
Had an epiphany. Would 'D' stand for Detroit and 'WM' stand for Windsor Manufacture?