Here's passenger rear.  Photo is lousy, but after I took this one, my batteries died.  Hopefully give you enough info with the arm orientation and mounting bolts able to be seen.

Here's front passenger side, 30U Roadster.

Thanks for the info.  My handles looks exactly like the handle shown in the photo with the roadster, and it looks like raw pot metal, like that one, too.  Those are the kinds of photos that get me wondering if these roadster handles are plated at all, when I see them all in a uniform grey natural pot metal.  I would assume they were plated, but I don't have 100% proof of that at this point.

-Chris

Hello,
   I have a 30U roadster.  The original interior door handles are currently the color of raw pot metal.  I assume these would have been nickel plated originally, but since I see no trace of any plating anywhere, I am not 100% sure.  does anyone know how these interior door handles should be finished, originally?  Thanks!

-Chris

Really enjoyed your posts, keep up the great restoration work!

Ok, then it is not from a 1930 30U roadster with rear-mounted tire, for whatever that's worth.

Thanks for the responses.  It looks like the only way to see what's going on behind it is to remove the kick panel in front of the hinge, which could be a lot of work, as it appears to be tacked on.  May be a little while before I tackle this job, as I have my hands full with some other projects currently.  I'll share the findings once I get to it.

Any way to get a photo of it vertically, from the front of it?  I'm trying to see if there's a large curve on it towards the top, but a I can't quite tell.  My 30U has quite a curve to it, almost like a small "S" curve, as it bends towards the outside of the car and the top of the stalk.

Right now, I don't plan to do anything until I can see what's going on inside the hinges.  Maybe they can be repaired.  The doors weigh practically nothing, so it's really just an annoyance than anything else.  I'll keep investigating and maybe take off the side panel to see if I can get to the back side of the hinges.  The body still has some wood components; seems to be kind of a hybrid.

Here's a photo.  My car is a late car, built in Apr '31, I believe.

Hello,
   The doors on my 30U roadster are sagging to the point that the striker is worn almost in half.  I've been closing the door the last few years by lifting up to prevent easy closing and further damage.  I can get new strikers, but I want to fix the hinges. 

   When trying to remove the hinges, 2 of the 4 screws holding them in place just spin in place and cannot be removed.  My assumption is that they are in the body wood and just spinning in place, but I don't know for sure, as I've never had the car apart.  I also noticed that the frame where the hinges attach, attached to the body, have 3 screws in them, so this piece comes off as well.

   Before I start tearing into it, or doing unnecessary damage, I thought I'd ask for some expert advice and see if there are any tips or tricks to getting the hinges off, or should I start trying to pry them out or try removing the entire panel with the 3 screws.  Thanks for any advice.

-Chris

Good luck on your restoration.  Compared to dealing with the DMV, the resto will be easy.

Great to hear the project is going well so far and always looking forward to new pics.

Finally completed the move.  I gave up on the generator and sent it back to the rebuilder.  There was an internal problem, so now I don't feel as bad about my lack of electrical diagnostic skills.  Turns out there was a ground wire on the brush holder end plate that was not attached.  The wire was sandwiched in between the end plate and generator case.  It was still grounding but that could have been intermittently due to the primer inside the case.  I also replaced the wire to the relay the field wire (the one that was frayed), but I evidently did not get it tucked back up against the case like it should and was shorting on the armature, to add insult to injury.  Fixed under warranty, but of course had to pay shipping out to the rebuilder.  I should get it back Monday.  Maybe I'll have a working generator again after 9 months of nonsense and frustration.  Thanks again for the great posts, I've really learned a lot so now maybe I can do a better job with testing and diagnostics in the future.

Sorry for my being gone for a month and not replying.  I have/am involved in a big move...with double the garage space, but no time for old cars for a while.

Old Man, thank you for the excellent post.  I at least now have a clear understanding of how the system works, and of how simple it really is.  As far as my car, I've been chasing this problem for 6 months now and it still has not been resolved.  Since my last post, I did a few minor tweeks and I've been working with a gentleman from www.aaca.org who's been quite helpful.  Things have gotten a little better, but still not resolved.

So, the battery is less than a year old and there are no problems with it.  I tested my 1930's cutout switch that's on the car as well as a modern backup I have, and both of them appear to work.  I replaced the wire going from the lower brush inside the generator to the "gen" side of the cutout switch, as it was frayed and I suspected grounding.  These minor changes have resulted in the car now running at about    -3 amps at idle, about -12 or so with the headlights on.  At -3 amps with headlights off, revving the engine or increasing the load will not increase the amps above about -2 no matter what.

I still need to test for any electrical drains, test the output, and see if I can test the ammeter.  It's also possible something went wrong inside the generator, but it has a fresh restoration on it.  I should be able to find some time after my move is complete in about 3 weeks to continue working the issue.  It's frustrating when something that should be so simple is so difficult.  Doesn't help that I'm very ignorant with electrical, but learning from you guys.

Thanks again for the posts.

-Chris