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Messages - frankp

#166
Ok.  As you can see, I needed to make a new bottom piece, which was done many years ago.  (I made new side wood this year)  No recollection of what original looked like or if there was enough left to determine much.  In the red circle is a notch, both sides, that are over bolts.  With the screws out of the B pillars, mine just tilted back.  It comes out as a unit, springs and side bolsters - I'll call them, no need to remove any upholstery.  It is unwieldy.  I had to lift the front end off the floor a little to back it out towards the back seat.  If you have rear flooring material, it may try to scrape along it and may make life more difficult.

Others may be able to provide better directions.

Good luck, you'll get it!
#167
Say rwollman, in progress picture are welcome, too!
#168
The bottom of the front seat is easy to remove by pulling up at the forward top and sliding towards the firewall.  The seat frame is held in place by fixtures on the floor that fit into the holes in the frame.  Removing the back of the front set is a bit more involved.



#169
I don't know about stickers, but I had decals made this winter that I have not tried yet.  Contact Bill at Precision Design if you would like to purchase.

https://pdc.ca/rr/catalog

#170
General Discussion / Re: Renovate wooden wheels
April 20, 2018, 12:22:23 AM
The spokes are not glued, but held together by precise milling at time of assembly with the hub and felloe.  Through the years, the wood may loose moisture and become "loose" if you remove the brake drum and center hub.  If you go this far, be sure to mark each spoke so you will know the exact order to re-assemble them.

Don't know original assembly process.
#171
Well, good pictures.

On the floor board, Yes, throttle, footrest and Starter Pedal switch - it is mounted on the engine bell housing.  What you see protrudes through the floor board.

From what I can see, your Choke is next to the Ignition Key and Timing adjustment to left of Ammeter/Oil cluster.  You can follow the cables to see where they go.
This is reverse of my setup.

You are correct about the wiper switch.  It screws out to allow the vacuum to activate the wiper motor.  The toggle is for the dash light.

#172
Thanks, hursst.  I got both from Floyd many years ago and have them on my car.  Unfortunately the knobs are a bit larger than stock and I was never clear the CHOKE was patterned after an original.

#173
moparfreak77,  Congrats and welcome, nice find!  Great to see another unrestored original.

Would follow Dave and Tom's good advice before going too far.

I'll give dash buttons a shot - left of steering wheel on bottom of dash is the vacuum wiper switch and instrument panel light switch.  On the dash to the right is the Choke and Spark Advance/Retard.  The 3rd??

The bumpers you picture look to be from 28Q.  The FEDCO number from the dash would tell what the car is.

frank
#174
Chet, Dave will probably give pictures of his car.

Based on his, I did the windlace in a flat black vinyl.  Kim's picture shows the vertical and horizontal across the top of the door interior.

My rear window looks to be one piece metal.    frank

#175
General Discussion / Re: Renovate wooden wheels
April 16, 2018, 06:47:27 PM
jjohn,
I removed old paint by hand with a paint stripper, sanded; finished spokes with with spar varnish for a natural look.  Metal pieces are body color.  You can judge, if this method is good advice (or not!)  Good luck to you.
frank
#176
Mine are painted black, rear and front.  frank
#177
General Discussion / Re: Paint Chips for 28/29
April 12, 2018, 08:21:37 PM
Thanks, Chet.  I obviously do better with copy & paste.   frank
#178
I'm really not trying to be a pain!

Tail lamp = "bucket" + "door,"  bracket is black, as you say.

Now for the 29 bumper, I left out the word "plate" that you so kindly circled in red.  I did the rear in black also.  These pieces are supposed to have a shiny metal rectangular "cap" over them.  When you see Joe H's car, note how these look.  He told me what belonged there and had them made for his car.  My plate has a slightly raised portion where this thin, rectangular piece fits.

My understanding for the 28 bumper is the same as yours. Here's a 28 left rear for your collection.
#179
General Discussion / Re: Paint Chips for 28/29
April 12, 2018, 05:36:46 PM
Chet,  found this site today.  Interesting to play with and see which Chrysler cars by year use same color. 

http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?year=1929&make=Plymouth&model=All&gncl=All&action=Get+Paint+Codes

Marquette Blue IM-103,  from hand written notes here is a formula I labeled Dupont/DUCO 246-30274  Marquette Blue

21 1/2 fl oz  246-050  Dark Blue (Chinese)
2  3/4 fl oz  246-0091 White
7  5/8 fl oz  246-052  Prussian Blue

I'll keep looking in my folders for more info.     frank
#180
Chet,  some clarification::

The only chrome I have inside was done in error and have been slowly going to nickel.  I don't know if the light and hand throttle will ever be changed to nickel, however.  I'm leery of any brute handling them.

Outside metal I left natural metal, aluminium, are hub caps and running board trim.  Tail lamp was all chrome.  Outer bumper are black, but I have seen them in chrome.

Hub caps:  I understood the 'shroom 30U wood wheel was like the 29U except it had no octogon on the inside, but was smooth to the lip where it met the hub.  frank