Can't see in the video but the way you were shaking the distributor it looks like your hold down screw is missing 

http://www.allpar.com/racing/nhra/four-cylinder.html Found this story about record setting 4 cylinder Plymouth. They are 32s PB. that's the serial on my 30. you can see the block off plate for the fuel pump. My block is smooth like a 30. Like to have that in my car.

I wish I had taken pictures when I was repairing a tire. I just used a short piece of pipe with a slight curve. rolled the lever down had plenty of room to get the tire off and on

I have on of those but my 30U wheels have a lever built in the rim, You can slip a small piece of pipe on and and lever it around and this allows you to remove the tire. Was this something started in 30?

I thought about using the park lights, And I bought an original tail light to put on the right side. The more I thought about it this is what I came up with. The front lights are bolted to the bottom of the Head light studs and the rear are mounted on a piece of tubing and bolted through a hole that already existed in the spare tire mount. Al the wiring is separate from the car, and on its on fuse. The lights are Harley Davidson that I accumulated from my work, I have had the Yankee switch so long I for got where It came from. I had to buy some wire witch is something I use all the time anyway and I found an electronic 6 volt flasher on ebay cheaper than my local parts store wanted for a point style, I drive the car frequently just a mile down the road to an RC flying field. It is a busy road and Hand signals just were not working.     

I have been collecting the things I needed for installing my turn signals for a while. Received my flasher today. Didn't drill any extra holes. It all can be taken back out and never know it was there. I will feel safer when making a turn. I would like to have an older styl switch but I have had this one laying around for a long time.

The PO of my car had it running on an electric pump with a two gallon gas can in the rear floor board. You didn't go far. The tank was solid, so I took it out and cleaned it. I have various ways of cleaning fuel tanks. He gave me a Stewart pump that had been in the car. I cleaned it up worked great. The owner before him had it running off the intake. If you look up Stewart Fuel Feed you can find out all about this. I kept trying to get it to run off the oil pump. Found a larger capacity Stewart pump on ebay at a good deal, Put it on kept fooling around with the pluming, It's not original, but it all works. Just have to rebuild my windshield wiper. It runs all day. When I was trying to get the electric pump to work I would get the pressure low enough to idle with out flooding then I wouldn't have enough to run down the road. I switched from an impulse pump to a vain pump that helped but I found the vacuum the way to go. Still have the vain pump under the car just in case. Haven't needed it in Years.   The Kingston pump is right for the car. Hard to find. Stewart pumps are period correct,    And you can fined them.   My car is not a show car I just have fun with it 

Don't get me wrong here. Didn't say it would run better, Just that the carb would like it. Gravity feed is a constant smooth flow, Electric with a regulator will pulse. Carb is much easier to tune with gravity. I know a lot of guys go electric and make it work, I like the vacuum Tank. When you get it working there is no maintenance, no electric draw, just drive. My thoughts.   

Your car looks great. My car was a Survivor like yours. The previous owner painted and upholstered it. I have pictures of it before. On your fuel pump, Someone had changed mine to a Stewart fuel feed. The last owner took it off in favor of an electric. I have changed it back. Stewart pumps show up on Ebay often. Your carburetor will like the gravity fuel feed better than electric. Keep up the good work.   

Just looking through the master parts book, It shows the dash light switch for Q&U, no switch for 30U then it is back in the PA&PB. I have the same diagram Old Man shows but my dome light has no switch on it. The first and second owner did very little to the car but kept it running. the third owner repainted ans upholster it but kept the same dome light.

This doesn't help, On the 30 U it is on the left frame, behind the axle, ahead of the brake line. In the 70's I worked for a trailer manufacturer, They put a hidden ser# in the frame.

I didn't mention. My switch is connected to the dome light. I think this is correct as there is know need to control the dash lights separately from the running lights. So with a soft top you  wouldn't have a dome light. could explane why you have only the one hole. I have that 29 wiring diagram and it shows the dome light switch in the light. My light doesn't have a switch so this works for me. I have seen to other 30s wired the same way. This wouldn't explane why you have the hole apparently for an electric switch and no mole for the wiper.

Here are my switches. This is an early 30 U sedan. I have no doubt. That is not the original switch. I do not know what the small holes were for other than to secure the switch with screws vs the nut. 

Why I brought up the cam gear was shortly after I got my car the gear stripped while driving. Didn't lose power like yours, just quit running and while trying to crank it got popping from the carb. Years ago I was rebuilding a 350 Cummins that had stuck a few valves in the top of a piston. Could not get it timed. Found out through trial and error the cam had broken in the gear. Every other rotation the timing would change.

Timing could be changing because of a worn cam gear. They are made of Bakelite. after 80 are so year this stuff gets soft in oil and will deteriorate.